Paul C

oxides of nitrogen ;)

nitrous oxide is N20 ;)

no, the caster angle is basically what causes the wheels to self centre, think shopping trolley!! ;)

LOL!! you just copied me!! Miss, johns been copying again!! :D

Exhaust Gas Recirculation. its used for lowering emissions (NOx) by reducing combustion temps. if it fails then it can cause running problems, so many bypass it when the engines out. im not convinced that its needed to bypass this & dont know of anyones that actually HAS failed?? anyone here that has actually experienced failure??

rather than having a rubber bush, they have a "rose joint", more like a bearing. gives radial movement but without the flex, which means firmer suspension. also being adjustable means you can adjust your caster angle, which isnt possible as standard ;)

for those that want to but cant be arsed to make their own blanks up!: http://www.conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=543&Car_Type=300&UID=

http://www.dabs.com/uk/productview?quicklinx=32W9&referrerid=FC dunno if the price is any good? might help someone if it is :)

depends if it breaks up or not later on in life!! :cry:

id try Mike Feeney @ MJP :)

adjustable rose jointed rods: http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CP&Product_Code=113-1102 Nismo bush: http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CP&Product_Code=54476-RS590

front tension rod bushes you have a few options, i dont think nissan make the bushes seperatley, so it would have to be the whole arm from nissan. i believe Nismo make the bushes, as do poly bushes (but polys are reputed to fracture the arm) or buy rose jointed adjustable arms!! not too bad a job, the arms are easy to get off, then just a case of replacing or pressing the old bush out & the new in

Ok, in the rollers. RW torque is actually measured, RWBHP is then calculated from that. although FWBHP is estimated, it is actually measured. after the power run the clutch is dipped (or put into neutral) the dyno then measures the torque (& therefore bhp) that the transmission is sapping due to frictional losses. autos lose far more than when being driven, due to all that oil, rubber bands & feathers that slosh around in there! :D

RR's actually measure torque & then convert to BHP!!

sounds good to me matey :) are you planning on actually going to the airshow, or is it all visable from the carpark??

if its coming from the prop, then its more likely to be the centre bearing, which you can buy seperatly. the rear gearbox mount can give similar symptoms. as Scoops says, get your wheels rebalanced 1st :)

this any good??

have a read of this: Z1 conversion

never done a zed box, but i wouldnt have thought its too bad a job. VW boxes i used to pull em, strip & rebuild then fit them in the same day!! :)

gotta have traction control. the racelogic system is just sooooooooooooo much fun!!!! :D

release bearings tend to make the noise when the clutch is pressed, which is when the release bearing is under load ;)

could be the input shaft bearing. does it do it when stationary?? a rebuild may prove the most economical depending on the damage. if its only bearings then it shouldnt cost too much

is it a bearing type noise? does it make any difference with the clutch dipped?

deffo 99 spec :D