Old Zed

Thats not Zedworld Alan, I was there recently and its jammed packed with Zeds.

Why don't you do that and make a list of the bits so that people can see what their getting for their money, especially things like flywheel bolts which I had to buy when I did mine and new from Nissan cost £34.

They don't normally give trouble bleeding but a couple of tips. Make sure the vehicle is positioned with the radiator higher than the matrix. There is a bleed point/plug fitted on the left hand side of the radiator, ensure it is removed. Let engine run until hot (don't rev) and the air should get forced up to the highest point which is the radiator. You should see it bubbling as it rises to the top. try squeezing some of the hoses as well but mind that cooling fan.

One of the nasty bits is fitting the clutch pedal and hydraulics. Even knocking the blanking plate out from the bulkhead was not easy.The next barsteward job is removing the spigot bush from the flywheel/crankshaft as the automatic box uses a larger bush so it has to be changed. And just when you think you've cracked it, actually fitting the manual gearbox can be a PTA, and they are heavy. The first time we tried we had to put down again because it would not align and being a bug lump, fatigue set in. Second time tho', it was done. Make sure to got the bolts for the flywheel, clutch and off course pedal fitment. You have either got to change the brake pedal or slice it down to normal size. Have new pedal rubber ready to fit. Check gearlever bushings for wear, they are easier to replace before you fit the box then afterwards.

? :confused:

I hope this works but I am not very good putting links into here. This is an add for Volkswagen......brilliant I think.

The weather was great last year. Lets hope its a repeat although there were long queues for icecream.

Autoboxes if left unused for long periods self distruct. The drive faces have clutch lining material which when the oil is not being circulated, dries out and of course starts to decompose. It will drive OK initially, but will fail later when the lining actually comes away from the driven face. That is what all the crap is stuck to the filter. If you intend to store an auot box, fill it right up with oil. If its fitted in a car, startup and move every couple of weeks.

Not strictly true. When Jimmer (my son) stripped Si's engine, although running sound, but with one low compression, when stripped the bore was so badly scored, it would have required a sleeve fitting. Luckily for Si, he had another engine which had a good block.

If you decat at this sort of mileage you are asking for trouble, i.e. the turbos will normally fail due to the change in back pressure. There is a big cost difference in just changing the exhaust to having to change the turbos (engine out) as well.

It will run but will not rev. When I tried it the car would not pull up the slope from the garage although it ticked over smoothly. As Andy states, no gearbox signals are present.

Spongey, the tricky bit is getting a secondhand engine that is good enough to uprate. There have been guys on here with cars running OK but with perhaps one lowish compression, but still sounding sweet, and when its been stripped its beyond economical repair, i.e. the bore is damaged. Basically, be cautious when buying an engine, take someone who knows what to check and look at.

Surely he must know how to diagnose an injector fault, and what it entails to change one. All the other options, PTU, MAF, Coil pack or even the CAS are easy to change. An injector is a plenum off job so certainly not a soft option.

The back axle ratios are the same on both and the difference in the turbos does not make a significant difference. There are two conversions, one is the 'simple' type conversion and the other a 'complete' conversion. the difference being that the 'simple' conversion is without the clutch booster equipment and gives a heavier clutch pedal requirement, which will only really be noticeable in heavy traffic. Also if you choose not to fit the booster equipment, if at a later date to want to uprate the clutch, it may result in a significant increase in pedal pressure. You pay your money and take your choice.

How about removing the sound equipment from the boot !! it won't give you more BHP but with the car then about 100kgs lighter, you should certainly notice the different. (He He)

It should not flood if not firing. Get someone to spin her over and put a longish screwdriver on one of the injectors, you should be able to hear it clicking as it works. If you cannot I would check the cable between the PTU and the CAS unit, they often get corrosion on the connector electrodes. Where was the air leak ?, has something else been knocked / left off which is cauusing it to not fire. Why not just do a second check on the work carried out to ensure no leads or pipes are off.

Thanks Greg. I was speaking from 48 years engineering experience and personal experience from doing just that. Changing some shells and leaving the crank as is and that in engines without turbos. It never lasted long. I was involved in motor sport in the 60's and 70's and you would try anything to keep going. And also, anyone that can look at a crank and spot the difference between .0002" (Ok) and .0010" wear (shite), is damn clever I say. I always use a micrometer myself.

You will waste your money just banging a set of shells in. If the shell on number six was showing copper, which is much harder than the white metal bearing lining, the crank will be worn. The knocking will certainly be less but because of the increased clearance on that journal, the oil pressure will be lower and thus it will start knocking again in quite a short time, especially if its a turbo model.

Sounds like a boost leak. Check all pipework and your intercoolers for leaks or damage. You can pressurise it by disconnecting your MAF etc., and finding a good fit plastic bottle, cut off the bottom and fit tyre valve in the cap end. Fit bottle in MAF pipe tightly and pressurise to about 10 psi. Any leaks should become apparent.

They can be done with just removing the plenum but it is not an easy job, but well worth the patience and skinned knuckles.

Its sounds like a wrong diagnosis. When you turn a Zed over with the fuel pipe disconnected, it will squirt for a second and then stop. This is because the fuel pump ECU is timed in with the Main ECU which sends a signal to it only when everything else (spark, injector signal, PTU etc.,) is working. You may only have a bad connection between your PTU and your CAS unit, which will cause the engine not to fire, and will also cause the lack of fuel pressure. I know, I replaced mine and tried a fuel pump ECU and relay, and still no fuel. I even changed the PTU to a Mk2, and still no good. Took the CAS off to test the injectors and bingo, nothing. when I checked the connector it was covered in green rubbish. Cleaned it up, tried it again and the injectors were clicking. re assembled everything and it was all OK, running like a dream.

South West Tyres are a family business at Clevedon on the outskirts of Bristol. They have done very well in recent years and everyone drives up market motors to prove it. Mercs, Porsche, TVR, all with private number plates fitted. I bought a set of wheels and tyres from them and when I got home noticed that one was damaged. Not a kirbing type but it looked like the wheel had been dropped on the rim and put a flat spot on it. It had also broken the laquer. They tried everything not to change the wheel. First they said that they did not have anymore of that pattern, then they did not have anymore in the price range, then they offered me £50 refund. And then I told them I did not want them at all and asked for a total refund. Guess what ? they found another wheel lurking upstairs !!! Sadly they do offer some really good wheel packages but you have to have your wits about you.

The problem is that there are still a lot being imported which balances out those being broken. The fuel, insurance, maintenance costs and the Nissan badge will always dictate the cars value, which will be reflected by other models in the range.

Recently bought a 92 TT manual with the intention to break, however I am having second thoughts. The engine and box are superb with oil pressure almost off the clock when starting from cold and only drops back to midway when hot. It is very quick even compared with my 94 JWT chipped TT, and someone has fitted NISMO clocks tp it. On inspection underneath, I noticed some small corrosion at the rear of the offside cill panel which is unusual as on British cars the nearside always seems to corrode first because of its locallity to the side of the road and susequent salt built up. Has anyone done any welding on Jap cillpanels and is it a complicated structure undrneath the outer skin. I intend to buy the panels from Luke Borgs website unless anyone knows of s closer source to Bristol. I will not be doing the welding either, I will leave that hopefully to an expert, once again recommendations would be appreciated.

Price is not always an indicator of quality. I put Avons Z3's allround on my Z and they looked great. In the dry they were great, in the wet they were lethal. Even just turning into roads and the back was out, and I am not talking about powering it round. The backs lasted 3000 miles but they did do a track day. I then fitted Marogonis ( I think thats how its spelt) which were a similar price to the Avons, and Bingo, it was a different car. I had to really provoke it to get the back to let go. Apparently Jaguar are now fitting Khumos (is that right too?) to all new cars.