Old Zed

You are doing the right thing, taking it to Zedworld. You will get a professional diagnosis, and not end up carryingout costly unneccesaary repairs on an illimination basis.

Whats wrong with being in your 80's then ??

I have checked all the connectors and their outputs, and all is OK. I put 9V across the suspect injector terminal and nothing. All the good ones clicked well. Why do these things always happen in the summer when you want to drive it with the tops off. I keep threatening to buy a 350Z, mainly for reliability, but I would need some tuning done to move it along a bit better.

I think so as well. Once the plenum is off I can also do the top end bypass and other 'suspect' piping. Another dilema is do I replace all the injectors or just the one thats gone faulty. The car has only done 40K miles but is of course 12 years old. The way the injector stopped working was also odd. Drove the car all day no problems, the next day it started with a misfire. The damn Gremlins got in overnight.

OK, here we go. Anyone on here removed an injector the Dremmel way, i.e. ground the plenum away to get at the screw under it. Have read the Aussie report on this and not really convinced. Perhaps I should remove plenum and do a bypass at the same time, unless of course someone knows better. :mad:

If you have his address, go online to your local County Court, and issue a summons against him. It will cost you £32, which will be added to your £87, and served on him within a week. He then has 14 days to pay, thats all of it your £87 plus the costs of the summons. If he still does not pay, you can then obtain a judgement against him which will affect his ability to get credit, i.e.mortgages, loans and of course a mobile phone on contract. You can then also instruct the court to send a bailiff round to collect goods to the value. I do not think it will get that far, as they usually pay on receipt of the court summons. (My experience involving about 10 of them)

After spending a couple of sessions of 3 or 4 hours on the net and some time at my local RS Component store, who by the way were not very helpful, I tracked them down to a German company. I also found a Japanese company but could not translate the spec or contact them in their language so dismissed them. I will probably stick them on Ebay so available to all Nissan owners, as they fit quite a lot of models.

Sorted.

Try http://www.propertyfinder.com.

I'm with Greenflag, and if you don't call them out, you get a 25% discount the following year. Mind you when I did call them out, they certainly turned up quick, but with the wrong wagon, one with a spectacle lift on the back which is useless when it comes to Zeds. So he then called in and they sent a body off jobber, which had a steep short ramp to mount it, which just happened to be higher than my front skirt. By now it was p*****g down with rain, I was bursting for a p**s, and he was sending for the parking removal type wagon. Luckily we found some wood on the verge and was able to drive on that first which then lifted the skirt over the edge of the bed. I have to say, their recovery drivers do seem to be planks.

If you have got a flame out the back, it sounds like an exhaust valve is burnt out or stuck open. With the engine running, remove each plug cap (wear rubber gloves or else) in turn to identify which cylinder is not firing, and then check the compression of the failed cylinder..

Alledgedly, you can buy these connectors from RS Components, or something very similar in a material that is better to the Nissan type, i.e. more flexible and less prone to breaking. Does anyone know the type, part number etc., or even if this is true, and not a myth. Mine are well cooked and very crisp, so replacement is on the cards.

Zedworld will come and collect it, so no further damage can be done, and your only down the road. Don't start it whatever you do.

Being an old coffin dodger myself, the reason why engines had to be run in then was because manufacturing techniques were pretty basic and tolerences for fit rather large, a bit hit and miss really. So garages / motor manufacturers tended to go for the top end of the fit, i.e.TIGHT, and by driving it steady and not under too much load, gave it chance to gently wear and settle down to normal running clearances. Despite that old engines did not last long, usually 50 to 60K miles. You were thinking about head off and decoking at 20K miles. Today all is changed, better machining, better materials and better cleaner fuels. You don't hear the word 'decoke' any more except if your an addict of course, slightly different. But you do just have to be a bit reverent when you are putting new bits in an old block, it does need some time to settle in, and its probably best in a high compression engine to take it steady for a 1000 miles or so.Looking forward to seeing you in the 'was it you' section Si, now its back on the road.

Check the connection to the CAS unit also, these are prone to corroding and causing a misfire.

To convert you will need a manual gearbox c/w gearstick, flywheel, flywheel bolts, spigot bearing, clutch slave cylinder, clutch master cylinder, interconnecting pipe, clutch pedal+bolts/nuts, propshaft, Rubber gaiters (2) & mounting plate for gearlever to floor sealing+leather gaiter. New complete clutch assembly and 3 shredded wheat. These boxes, both manual and auto are heavy f+++++s. The wiring loom to the auto box can be removed back to a socket near the suspension mount on the drivers side, and a feed can then be taken off the same point for the reversing lights. Apart from a bit of swearing when fitting the pedal and master cylinder, the rest is straight forward.

Who wants to stay in this weather. This is roof off and go time before it changes again.

Absolutely correct. You cannot get HID's in H3C because they are designated by their base mounting pattern, which is H3. All HID's have two spade terminals.

In your area you have got Jeff Turner at Zedworld, in Tamworth. He does conversions and will probably also have all the bits available secondhand, apart from the clutch of course which would be new. Give him a call on 01827 259222 and discuss it with him.

What about the changing of peoples signature photos then ???

Me and my son converted mine in a day, started at 9.30am and I was driving home at 4.30pm. Where the hell does two weeks come from ??

The nearest to you is Zedworld at Tamworth, not a million miles away. Here is there site . Jeff is a real nice guy.. http://www.zedworld.co.uk or ring them on 01827 259222

That engine must have been buggered when you bought the car from the dealer. You would think that any dealer that values its reputation would carryout a compression test on every vehicle before selling it, as part of a general inspection, and thus validating the quality of what is the heart of any car like this. I suppose that would put them in line for the expense of fixing it, which is not their scene.The least they could have done is given you one of them mechanical warranties, so that you could claim some of the money back for the repair. Like most garages, they probably don't give a f**k once they have got your money.

Si. have a drive of mine, that will convince you, I have owned it a 12 month now and go to Derby regularly in it. I treat it like a modern performance car, and push it hard. It just flies, the only things that stops working is me, I get scared. Its a real monster. It did well at Japfest which meant quite high revs because the circuit is quite tight. Apart from a bad connection on the CAS unit, which was a show stopper, its brilliant, and 25mpg as well. Its real smile mixture.

Thats spooky, it looks just like the mother in law....