StuartTheFish

I had no reception issues in the skyline, put it that way. That said, I usually listened to radio 1 if I wasn't listening to mp3's, which is normally a good signal wherever you go anyway.

Some people decide to chop this plug off and convert it to use our plug instead. In that case, you're stuffed unless you can find the other cable floating around and can put a plug on it. There's also a chance uk models didn't have the aerial in the rear screen in thr first place, I don't have a uk model to know. But in theory you can do this to most imported nissans of the era.

It looks like this mate: Two pins, one for the electric aerial and one for the screen aerial. Our head units over here don't use this connector, so you get a conversion harness. Two aerials go in, only one comes out to go to the head unit. That one is the electric aerial, with the screen aerial left going nowhere. The plug can simply be flipped around to use the other one. Won't clip in any more, but it won't fall out. Conversion done. :)

Of course it was, the aerial in the rear screen isn't even connected until you reverse the plug. ;)

It's known as the diversity aerial by the way, in case anyone was wondering.

I like how mine sound, but don't like the stalling they introduce by dumping metered air. As for boost controllers, I like the greddy e-01 that's tucked into my sun visor, hidden out of sight unless I need to look at it. :-)

If I ever get a DAB head unit and need to add another aerial, I have the rear screen washer nozzle hole spare. :)

I use the rear screen aerial in mine, and reception is fine. My old skyline had the same setup, so had switched them over ans removed the electric aerial years ago. Never had an issue with reception, though admittedly I do just listen to mp3's more often than not. To switch them over, get behind your head unit and follow the aerial lead back. You should find a cylindrical plug, which you can unplug and rotate 180 degrees, then plug back in again so that it uses the other aerial. Then just disconnect the aerial activation wire, or just unplug it in the boot, to stop the electric one from rising. Mine's been smoothed out now. :)

If you want a hand doing this, just let me know. Did it to mine a while back, as well as wiring up the telltale light in my UK cluster.

I don't know who spin doctor is, but this car is an NA that had been sat on a drive for years to go mouldy and rusty, which he bought for just a few hundred in March or April.

Owned by Ben Carroll, lives up near Newcastle somewhere.

If you decide to keep the hicas, you can buy new trackrods and new outer balljoints very cheap from a seller called Langdon 4x4 on eBay. The z32 uses the same parts as an r32 skyline, unless your zed had electronic hicas. In that case it'd use r33 skyline track rods instead. Still r32 outer balljoints though.

Funny how everyone was saying how shocking it was and telling you to name and shame, and then suddenly fell silent when you mentioned zedworld. Nobody is flaming, and you aren't starting a witch hunt by starting this thread, you're not in the wrong, it's okay to have a problem with bad work. It's funny, the general attitude about these cars is that they're unreliable. Does nobody sit back and think the people they trusted to do work on their cars might have something to do with it?

For crying out loud, even you'd defend them after finding terrible work on your car? I really don't get the mentality of this place. You were charged over the odds for crap work, the same as others have. So why not openly discuss how bad some of their work was? Those who think they were good likely just don't know any better.

To be honest, yes I can after all the work of theirs I've seen.

Glad to hear it, I'll have found out for myself once the car is finally out of the bodyshop and back on the road. :)

Mine has some of these too. One thing I will say though is that the pump seems a little weak for them, though that being said I only tried them on ignition, not with the engine running, so perhaps the battery was going a little flat at the time since she's just been sat for the past month.

I would have been there, had the car been ready. But she's still in the shop getting all the rot removed. :(

I'd been told they were different between na and tt models due to the different diff ratio.

That last line or two didn't make much sense, whoops. :) So are you now using a different consult lead? I assume you'll now see a speed signal if using a different one. I wonder if it's faulty, or if simply all of that type do it?

Well that's a result! Well done mate, first I'd heard of a consult adapter blocking the speed signal to the various control units before!

If later clocks are anything like the r33 ones due to the later electronic hicas, then I can recalibrate them into MPH, while keeping the speed signal unaffected. I'd need to see a later cluster to confirm though.

Sorry, I'd read that as if the nozzle had been removed. Most of my post still applies, but following the tube should help you find if it's still going to the nozzle, and if there are any leaks. If there aren't any, perhaps the nozzle is blocked. Clean it out with a needle.

Take the front bumper off and see if the tube is still connected. If it is, trace where it goes. As standard it obviously goes along the drivers sill and up the B pillar towards the rear screen nozzle. If the pipe is still going that way and still connected, you'll be pumping water into your bootlid or sill, so disconnect it at the pump, along with the wiring plug so you can't accidentally turn it on again. If the tube goes somewhere else, follow where it now goes and make your own mind up whether to leave it active or not.