StuartTheFish

Even if I'd have bought a UK spec, a Jap spec bumper would have gone on to allow a square plate and removal of the rear foglights. Can't stand extra lights randomly stuck in bumpers just because manufacturers couldn't be arsed incorporating them into the rear lights properly.

Doesn't show up on Tapatalk. ;)

Jap, they're a Japanese car after all.

UK plates on Japanese cars looks pants in my opinion, but each to their own. :) As for the original question, I'd personally lose the lower lip, and stick 99 spec rear lights on it. I wouldn't go for smoked on a dark car, it's too much. The white indicators, along with fronts and side repeaters, would be a nice contrast with the rest of the car.

Look at Phutumsch's threads like he says. Plenty of photos to gawp at. :)

To be fair, they're better than standard zed brakes normally. As for options, what will fit a zed will fit an r33, so gtr brembos, etc. Got r34 front brakes on mine, which are a bit better, just had to drill the hole out by 2mm. As for the speedo, it doesn't matter if the gauge is accurate, the speed signal to the ECU and hicas can still be wrong. Consult would show that up.

Never heard that one, but yeah they're shite. :)

The hicas acting as you describe could be down to how the speedo is converted. To do it properly, you remove the clocks, take the speedo out, then remove j4 and change the calibration pads. I wrote a thread covering how to do it on the skylineowners forum if you fancy a look.

You'd be surprised mate, I've seen loads do it over the years, assuming the ECU will just learn and adapt...

If you need any help with it by the way, just ask, I'm in Harrogate, and I'm also on skylineowners.com since I've had one for the past five years now and fixed plenty of them.

All r33's are consult, and yes it definitely needs mapping if it's got a different intercooler, turbo and whatever else. The standard ECU can't even handle a boost increase all that happily, so I'd expect it currently has a lovely flat spot at 5k rpm where the ECU pulls the timing back to 5 degrees.

I assume he means the boost controller mate.

Well, if it ever happens, just be careful who you take it to, a lot of mine was made worse by previous work! That's all I'll say on that. :)

Pictures hide a lot, when looking for my car I saw a fair few zeds that looked great in pictures, but terrible when up close. Even the one I ended up buying, but at least I got it cheap enough to put it right within my budget. Was only fit for scrapping otherwise!

So considering the last owner left it sat on the drive for years to get covered in mold and rust, and the current owner doing work like this, I'd say the car won't be up to a decent standard at all. Crazy money for any na, unless it was a 99 spec. Speaking of which, there happens to be one on eBay at the moment for 4k, could have prompted the price reduction. But considering he bought it for only a few hundred in April, even 3k is quite a price hike.

Yep, yes it is. That was my reaction when I saw that picture too!

Near enough, yeah! Beforehand he was asking about 4k for it though, 3k is his reduced price, even though people who've seen it in person say it's rotten.

Also, speaking about things being done to a high standard, this picture was when he was getting the sills welded. Had holes through the sills and various other places, but reckons the entire job cost him about 200 quid:

It's been on eBay for months, he's been trying to make 3k profit on it.

If there's nothing wrong with it and you're happy, leave it on.

No, but OEM quality. No different than buying OEM spec track rod ends, lower ball joints, etc. Most traders sell the exact same parts, but double the price, making out they're rare. And near enough every part of a car is extortionate if you buy from a dealership, just depends if you can find something the same quality or not.

Also, in my opinion the best way to remove the hicas is to fit an na subframe, again, less money than a new lockout kit.

You can buy both hicas ball joints and drumsticks for under 70 quid delivered if you buy from the right sellers. ;)

Thats kinda like saying what's the point in engine management, when a carburettor can also put air and fuel in.

The reason there's two aerials in the first place, is one was for FM, and the other was for AM. But the AM aerial in the screen does a good enough job of picking up our FM frequencies anyway. :)