Gio

Aaaahh congratulations :dance: . If it was at 11.30am, should have been in plenty of time for a celebratory glass or two :duffer: We were at the vet's first thing on Friday morning with this little git: Still, gave us something to laugh at for the rest of the weekend (Sibyl not impressed :D )

The OEM ones are in the Owners Manual which is available from Nissan Dealers (and elsewhere, no doubt). And of course in the online workshop manual on this site - why not take a look at it? And there's loads of pics and stuff here http://www.300zx.org.uk If you need more help, why not post a pic of the ones you don't know and I am sure we'll help. Bit difficult to guess which ones you don't know, otherwise :D

I love this place - one quick look then jump to a conclusion. Makes for quick fire posts which can be fun to read but not necessarily fair or on the same planet. Someone who is interested has posted a question on eBay covering many of the points raised on this thread. And the answer from the company representing the seller has been reasonable, informative, helpful and (if true which I have no reason to doubt) explains most of the digs made here. It is also very open and has offered to get / substantiate many things for the enquirer. This is not a car I am interested in or of a style I like but I do like the way the company has answered the questions raised and they seem like a nice bunch to deal with. If the car is a genuine 15,000 (and they say they have substantiation and the reason they give is IMHO very reasonable) and the kit has been assembled to that standard, maybe £10,000 is not so far off the mark? What would you pay now to find a 15,000 mile Zed with that bodykit fitted to that standard? Or shall I just slag it off because I can't be arsed to look into it and then whinge later about how badly the price of Zeds has fallen these days? :D

They're not all muppets. Yes, many are (as posted here) but there are some good ones. EG Dan Perkins in Slough who have a couple of experienced Z mechanics - they've looked after mine since 1999 and I won't let anyone else service. I am very happy with some of the Z specialists here and have used them to do planned maintenance, big jobs and will do so again.

Great mag front cover and article for the 300ZX this month courtesy of the ZClub http://www.zclub.net where you can get the whole thing :D

hahahaha :eek: :eek:

Hallo mate - yep, I've got this problem too. First noticed maybe 3 MOTs ago. After sitting at idle for 5 mins, smokey smokey. But that was with a Zed friendly garage so it passed. http://www.motuk.co.uk/manual_730.htm gives the official MOT spec I failed last time, but took it around the block for a good run then back into another garage and passed. MrF just did similar with a customer's car by (with permission) using a thicker competition grade oil - post in his forum for more details. Ultimate cure is replace turbos :eek:

hahahahaha fell for every one :rofl:

aaaah Ajay - congratulations! Does this mean the forum should have family membership? :D

I spoke to the DVLA and there does seem to be something that can be done. But you need to email me or let me email you.

looks like a great opportunity for reflectoporn!

aaah OK. But can he email me? I have to admit I'd feel happier about helping if he was a subscribed member hint hint :D

and it's "trouble at'mill" hahaha no one expects the Spanish pedant....

I tried to contact you to see if I could help but you won't accept pms and you won't accept email. Which is making me nervous about offering to help...

Power steering fluid and brake/clutch fluid should not be mixed. Using the wrong fluid in the wrong circuit can rot the seals - which is not good or really bad depending on which seals you're rotting! Some recent fluid based posts here with some links inside http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=46635 http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=46740

Yep again. If you sling DOT4 into google you will find a lot of sites which say a) don't mix glycol-based DOT4 (or 3) with silicone DOT5.1 and, which I hadn't realised, that silicone DOT5.1 can feel spongier than DOT4. I guess the benefits are it isn't hygroscopic (i.e. lasts longer) and doesn't strip paint - both of which are good things - but according to these sites doesn't give quite the same performance as 4

Davros, apparently! :rofl: neeeeow waddladang... http://www.bbc.co.uk/norfolk/content/articles/2005/03/15/features_davros_feature.shtml

If you fit a body kit, the only person who will see value in it is you (and the bodyshop you paid). The more mods you make, the more individual the car is. The more individual, the fewer people it will appeal to. The fewer people it appeals to, the smaller the market for it. The smaller the market, the lower the price. Never ever mod a car in the expectation you will get back the money you spend. Only mod a car if you think the effect you get (performance or looks) is good for you at the price you paid. Look at Mac's car. It's a labour of love and there is no way he will ever get the money back if he flogs it. But he will get the enjoyment for his car done the way he wants. But cheap mods done badly (and that's so easy to do with bodywork) just bleed value from the car. If you're looking to add value to a Zed - maintain it well and fix all the nigglies. If you're going to don't expect everyone to agree with the way you want it or pay over the odds for a car which has been driven into the ground or a lampost.

http://www.zparts.com/zptech/articles/maintenance/tl_z32clutch/Z32_clutchadj.html Or if you need someone to go over it with you (or do it for you) you need to get to either a proper Nissan garage (like Dan Perkins in Slough) or one of the specialists here: Zen Garage London or ZTech Swindon. HTH - Gio

Yep I agree. ABS will not cause "brake fade at high speed". That's just to do with crap brakes (cause = old fluid, not using DOT5.1, old pads, u/s discs, not bled, old hoses etc etc). As with most Zed issues, the fix is to solve the problem not paper over the cracks. (eg if you have worn discs, fix that, don't fit race pads; if you have flimp and loppy brake hoses, fix them (pref with Goodrich or similar but even OEM is better than nothing) rather than waste wonga on a caliper / disc upgrade). ABS will operate your brakes better than you can (i.e. for maximum stoppage with maximum control / steering) in 99.99999% of the time unless your name is M Schumacher. Or V Rossi. Some links http://aus300zx.neuralmotion.com.au/tech/abs/abs.htm http://www.ttzd.com/tech/linestech.html

Unless there's a particular reason why not, consider supporting our Traders - after all they support this forum.... http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=95

Thanks Mark (and thanks for the advice on the phone earlier :) ) I think the mix / don't mix is down to whether it's glycol or silicone. Maybe! In the past, the only fluid to meet 5.1 was silicone based so you never mixed 5.1 with anything else. Still I managed to top it up and get a little bit of clutch action so I might be able to get to work tomorrow. I realised that doing my own bleeding meant buying everything from scratch (I don't have metric spanners or ramps or axle stands or bleed kits or any mechanical ability whatsoever) so will limp through until tomorrow and give you a call. Unless Martyn is passing Staples Corner during Monday?....

I took the top off OK (which for me is a major achievement) but when I put it back, I couldn't work out whether the little black clip things on the lid (arrow on the right) should go over the white lugs on the reservoir body (arrow on the left). It isn't easy to twist the lid and I don't want to force it too hard. Have I managed to get the lid on OK or only partially? Thanks - Gio

Thanks - Harry's didn't have any DOT3 anyway so DOT4 it was! And it says on the bottle: "Exceeds current specifications for FMVSS, 116 DOT3 and DOT4, SAE J1703 and ISO 4925. It will mix safely with other brake fluids which conform with these specifications. Do not mix with silicone base brake fluids." DOT3 and DOT4 are glycol based and DOT5.1 is silicone based so don't mix 3 or 4 with 5.1. (Although confusingly I found a couple of websites which say there is now a new glycol-based fluid which meets DOT5.1 but I've never seen it.)

I've had an oil seal at one end of the rack replaced so I would guess bits of it were serviceable. http://www.300zx.lv/catalog/?gr=I&sec=492 http://www.300zx.lv/catalog/?gr=I&sec=490&pic=B01