Gio

Quite right too. And (nitpicking 'til the day I die) it's Brigantes / Brigantiae . People called Romani, they go the house? Vade Pvnc, Fabricati Diem

fuggin splitters

ok ok ok I know I'm the slowest here but at least I proved a 300ZX is faster than J Clarkson :D aaand hellraiser and steveo look out for a visit from the wheel police :rofl: (check the part number on the wheel itself - R is right and L is left) aaaaaand MikeGroves/chunk when you get to my age, mates, beards are well-appreciated a) by interesting ladies and b) as winter insulation hehehe :D

ICTYBTIHTKY http://www.gaarde.org/acronyms/?lookup=I :D

http://www.300zx.lv/parts/

hahahaha ROFL at least I'm butch enough to grow one :p

tadaaa indicators AND repeaters :tongue:

B*gger that means I'll have to wash it before JAE :D Must be stock: dash is lifting, vinyl peeling off, driver seat shabby (and driver ;) ) leaky targas hahaha

quite right (unless you're 500 - 600hp +) see here .

I got this from Andy at Bloodrunners and it was too good an idea not to pass on. Let's hope you never have to use it.

Most (all?) aftermarket exhausts don't have the X pipe. It appears to reduce noise slightly by evening out the pulses from each bank of cylinders (L & R) within the system. With an unconnected twin pipe exhaust, this energy transfer doesn't happen. When I changed from OEM standard with X-pipe to Mongoose without X-pipe, I noticed a droning noise peaking around 2,000 rpm which wasn't there before.

Thanks matey - just as well I've got a CD changer!

Hallo all - what's the traffic like at the moment? BBC have turned off the jam cams. Jammed solid probably...

Dark Grey Polo XL please Macca - thanks, Gio

So why do you think it's a winamp file? Winamp is for music, not for documents. Anyhoo send it to me and I'll have a butchers: gio at beyondsl.net

Sounds like low / no clutch fluid. Check reservoir. If you need to bleed, remember there are two bleed nipples and you need to do both. Could be general leakage or slave cylinder (on gearbox housing underneath) or master cylinder (engine compartment). Check the bulkhead below the master cylinder to see if there is evidence of leak. Good luck

hahaha nice one mate - cheers to Gayle :D

There are four things which go on the propshaft as everything gets progressively older and saggier. Rear gearbox mount (some pics here) and the centre bearing and also the bearings in the UJs themselves and lastly the CV joint at the diff end. Rear gearbox mount and centre bearing are easy. Nissan say that UJ bearings are not replaceable but if you find a prop(er) shaft engineer, they are. The most difficult is the CV joint at the end. The only people I found who claimed they could do it were Reco prop in Luton who said they had identified it as the same sort as on the Audi Quattro. And yes, TT / NA have different fittings at the diff end so beware. Also beware if you order a TT prop for your 2+2 from the US to save money. They don't do the 2+2 TT in the US, just the TT SWB and there is a different length prop.... Please don't ask me how I know :cry:

local contacts via http://www.aus300zx.com if you want to visit a forum in the same timezone!

Yep, me too :D My instructor disagreed with it as a little controlled rear wheel skid should be OK but the examiner didn't. And that was in, errr, 198-something. When I did pass on the 2nd attempt, I was so pleased with myself I went back to work and parked up in my space on the bike in front of our offices. Two storey high, glass fronted. Or at least tried to - in turning round, I dropped the bloody thing in full view :p and I was working at Kawasaki at the time :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: Arse over tip in a big silver Rukka which made me look like a Michelin man hahahaha

Unfortunately, he's only got wrong figures to work from. The base data entered by DVLA offices for imports are almost never right. Some (old and out of date) background and analysis is here

J spec is 225 all round (not 255) and that's 33psi F / 33psi R UK spec is 225 F / 245 R and that's 33psi F / 36psi R.

Hi Gayle - remember, sticky side down, shiny side up :D Good to hear you're on the mend...

If you are interested in HDTV, make sure the TV you buy is officially HD-Ready. This spec has been chosen by Sky and some of the TVs on the market are HD but not to this exact spec. HD Ready means: 1) 720 physical lines in wide aspect ratio 2) HD inputs via Analogue component and DVI or HDMI 3) displays both 1280x720 progressive scan (720p) and 1920x1080 interlaced (1080i) 4) The digital input (DVI or HDMI) supports HDCP copy protection. BBC will also use HD-Ready and so will STB manufacturers. There is also a whole minefield about pixel resolution in PC vs TV world - many quality issues are down to the software which converts between, say, a PC disply at 768 lines to the TV spec of 720. PC Widescreen is not the same as TV Widescreen - for example, did you know that the pixels are a different shape?

If you're in Hayes, give Mark a bell - he's also a Forum Trader here http://www.outlanderproducts.co.uk/