Gio

Not nearly as expensive as when I started. Retail £300 inc VAT for self-install Our latest hub is around 500 - 600ms. Laws of physics mean 440ms minimum but we'll never see that. Last year's hub is typically 600 - 900ms but can be over 1,000 occasionally. B*gger :D Never mind, you'll have to get through the network to get at it :wink:

Oh, and BTW, here's the official BT Speedtester http://www.speedtester.bt.com/ which actually tests your line and gives you configuration info as well. More helpful than the generic web speed testers.

Loads of pics http://www.z32photoguide.com/index.html

Actually, the key issues are: ADSL: "distance from Exchange" if you're using ADSL-type tech Cable: "distance from the nearest cable node" if you're using cable Community: "distance from/capability of backhaul"" for community solutions (incl fibre, wi-fi etc) Mobile (3G, 4G): "distance to and capacity of local mast" plus the backhaul issue. In a nutshell, if you live in a rural location with low population density, the economies for the terrestrial operators to upgrade your home/business to higher speeds just aren't there. That's why the gov't is going to spend £530million on subsidies. But even then, the rural edge will only get a guarantee of 2Mbps. The "superfast broadband" will only be extending commercial coverage into the "final third" - not to everyone. It's the same issue there was back when they were talking about extending broadband to everyone (they couldn't) and they've just repeated the issue. Just as well, there's a technology that doesn't care how far away from the exchange/mast/node it is: 20Mbps on the way by 2015 - anywhere you can see the southern sky. It's not a perfect replacement for FTTH/ADSL and gamers won't like the latency but if you're stuffed by the terrestrials today, odds are they won't get much better too quickly and satellite may be useful to you in the meantime.

John, here's the link to the caddy I got from Maplins. It's gone up to £15 http://www.maplin.co.uk/idata-usb-2.0-portable-sata-hdd-enclosure-444578 But in reading the follow-ons and your error message, this is not an HDD fault / OS fault stopping the boot. IMHO, Quavey / murt are much more on the right track. It looks like a BIOS conflict. As Quavey says, hit F2 to get into BIOS setup but if this is a first for you, best take up Quavey's offer and give him a bell.

Get a USB external caddy (mine was £9 from Maplins), stick the HDD in that and plug into USB on working laptop. Then you can format - or maybe even repair - that HDD before reinstalling in the non working laptop and do a fresh install of XP.

And updated http://www.300zxtt.co.uk/techaudio.html It's Series dependent and also some do / don't have rear speaker amp. That's without opening the Bose can of worms!

Stick to JDM all round. I swapped to UK once then I found that the tread is not, in fact, wider and it restricts your choice of tyre manufacturer and they're more expensive and you can't rotate front to rear. There are no brake or clearance issues between UK / JDM. Pictures that prove tyres for JDM fitment have more tread than UK are here http://www.300zxtt.co.uk/techwheelpolice1.htm Oh and PS, to actually answer your question, there is no known reason why there is a difference. There's a lot of guessing and personal opinion but nothing properly referenced. Maybe it's purely cosmetic.

Very well, thanks Gary. Nice pint of Windsor Knot http://www.webrew.co.uk/ourbeers.html Given their naming convention, I'm looking forward to their next royal celebration ale when Mike Tindall gets back to Zara: "Messy Divorce". :D

Hi Dave, how's it hanging?

It's a great look. See how the black center section makes the front look lower and wider than if it were the same colour as the rest. That's why (I guess) Nissan's designers put the charcoal strip there in the first place. Always preferred it to using the body colour all over. Nice job. Have to say I prefer this type of treatment to the 99 spec.

With the availability of OEM engines at a few thousand dollars (long block from ConceptZ at $7,150 and "short block" from Courtesy for $3,500), I know what I'd rather do than go to a general engine recon place. Even for a rebuild on a s/h one, I'd only ever go to a known Zed specialist.

As it turned out, that was the problem. Fiddle the white thing (which has a locating ring into which the metal fork should go) back into the metal fork and the filler/boot lever opens the filler flap again like Mr K intended. Jeez - another typical Zed fault. One tiny little plastic piece worth, oh must be 2p, slightly out of whack with a bent piece of not-exactly-micrometric tolerance metal. Fix, 10 secs of put it back where it should be but preceded by take all your crud out of the boot, dodge the showers, take out the boot floor, unlatch the targa top straps, roll back the carpet, take out the cargo tray (three bloody screwdrivers to find one the right length), back upstairs to find the socket set, unbolt the centre innner trim, unbolt the lh trim. And then climb inside the boot, put the back seat down, turn upside-down and try to look at what's going on in the dark while being blinded by the sun which has now come out, wish for geisha-size hands while assuming a contorted position probably only achievable by real trained geishas but without the same pleasure. :shuriken: Anyhoo, job done and now back to the fun of dropping nuts down little holes and having to take out the spare to get them back so I can put the trims back (another Zed trait hoho). Still, should be able to do that before a well earned :pint: Feeling slightly smug and hope that's not encouraging a pride/fall interface which usually happens when I do anything, let alone anything on my Zed. Thanks for the pointers, guys, save a lot of head scratching.

Removed the polystyrene tray and two trim panels to find the back of the filler flap. The white cable locator 1 does not appear to be fixed into anything. Pushing the filler lever in the cabin makes the cable go back and forth but no movement is transmitted to the lever in this pic. Should the white bit 1 be slotted into the metal fork 2? The other end of the lever seems to be in the right place on the release pin 3 but atm moving the cable does not move this lever or pin.

Ta. It all worked fine on the previous fill-up so hopefully should be easy to spot. I've also done what I tell all my dealers to do which is RTFM and found these pages.

If you look at the bulletin, it's got drawings and diags of the different connectors and parts so should be a 5 mins job to spot. But a 95 JDM should be R134a anyway.

That'd be the first time in 12 years and 3 Zeds :biggrin:

Thanks Gary, I'd seen that thread but had to re-read it to see this from groover . I thought'd I'd kicked it so hard that the flap cable had been dislodged. But if the boot still opens (which it does) that should mean the problem is at the flap end and not the lever end. I guess. Better pop out and have a prod.

JDM 95 should already have R134a gas. There is a sticker in the engine bay somewhere. There's a FAQ http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=140062 which has the Nissan bulletins explaining the changeover from R12 to R134a. Bulletin issued Jan 1992 but they obviously didn't change UK Zeds - just US and JDM.

Does anyone have a pic of how the release cable attached to the release lever? I discovered yesterday (at a petrol station in Ilminster with an empty tank and a long drive back home) the flap no longer opens. I unscrewed the sill trim and looked under the carpet but nothing obvious. A gentle pry with a cloth-wrapped swiss army knife got the flap open but I'd like the proper fix. The only things that have happened since the last fill up a couple of weeks ago is a detail and I knocked the lever with a boot like a clumsy git. That's why I think the problem is at the level end. Any pics/ hints? Ta.

The eBay ones I bought were not straight (as per pic). The single nut / locking ring type can split if over tightened. I ended up with the big sleeve/4 locking nut versions sold by ConceptZ and, I believe, Z1. Some pics in this thread http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=153670&highlight=camber

Japanese box or UK box? Remember Power / Hold is on JDM only. However, stick power hold autobox into search and there are shedloads of answers http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/search.php?searchid=3489884 Good one from Bilky

OK. I just thought maybe if you'd not used an auto before you might have been driving around stuck in hold or 2 or something. It seems not. I've driven a few autos of various makes plus neither of my 300ZXs autos behave(d) as oddly as you describe. Autobox diags and listen to Uncle Jeff - good luck.

Erm. Clarkey, have you got a Japanese autobox with the Power/Hold switch? Certainly what you describe does not sound normal at all.

:lol: And don't forget if you're going to fill your tyes with nitrogen, you'll need a nitrogen bubble for correct calibration. :tongue_smilie: