taff

The alloy type caliper suffer from slight flexing where they attach to the hub thats why they were changed to cast iron same as s14 ones latter on.

I got my kit of ebay £30 it was easy to fit cable tied ballasts to loom etheir side it was a 6000k kit branded VIP HID best £30 ever spent its a nice daylight white light not too blue .Its actually easier to fit to a jap car as the red and black spade conectors in the kit push into the red and black original nissan plugwhich orginaly went to bulb no need to mess around with earth unlike on the uk car.The hid bulbs are a bit longer than the standard bulbs becarefull not do damage the when fitting .

can they be rebuilt is there a seal kit available was thinking can it be removed from pedal and can the pedal be put back without the booster was gone to take it appart and see whats gone on it found a place that can rebuild servos .

Mines packed up hissisng noise under pedal box ive pulged pipe to servo, clutch is mega heavy .Can you get a seal kit or repair or is a second hand unit needed im informed there hard to get second hand .Ive also been told its a dash out but when i done my matrix i found it easy to remove booster and pedal just refiting it was a pain untill i left it all bolted up loose then it went in easy thanks tafff.

s13 s have a eye on the end where it attaches to the pedal with a pin same a na z32 where the 300zx tt has just a plunger which sits inside the servo.

Yes s13s dont have cluch booster .

Can anyone help me ive just fitted a new standard nissan clutch flexi rubber hose and new ADL clutch slave and a new nissan clutch master cylinder repair kit clutch bleed fine after a few goes on slave and the remote bleed nipple under the bonnet.The problem i have is sometimes pedal is hard to push and sometimes its soft it varies all the time i press the clutch pedal .Not sure if the booster servo is on its way out or it needs bleeding again has anyone else had this problem hose to servo seems ok thanks taff.

Got tein flex were on car when imported ride is hard as hell even on softest setting .

I blew up a turbo timer on my zed jump starting it befote as well .

I just scotch locked it into the handbrake warning switch on the handbrake its self only one wire there i think .

There gona stick out loads it will need more than an arch flare i Think over fenders are needed .what size and offset for the front wheels.

I sure r32 skyline rear have a sloted bottom rear shock mount the same as z32 not a eye type .If you use tein flex coilovers the bottom mounts un screw and can be swaped over .i would avoid welding dampers as there are gas filled.

Looking into roof spoilers for the z32 only found 1 the z centre sell it a zeemax 1 it says 2x2 do you guys think it will fit a swb tail gate cant see it being diffrent at the top near the roof .Any one have one of these roof spoilers fitted thanks taff.

I cut the heads off these bolts and put new ones in from the other side its a swb thing with the petrol filler in the way .

I think my rear cam cover are leaking only on the driver side i think it running down the back of the engine and dripping on the oil filter not much it doesnt leak on the floor yet.Can you get to the bolts to nip the covers up dont fancey a plenuem pull is there a gasket there or is it sealant thanks ,

Most aftermarket wheels have a centrebore of 73mm so you need a 73mm -66.1mm the plastic ones i have are just marked 73 -66 .Ture any non hubsentic bolt on or slip on spacer will make the wheel will not centre properly but if the spacer is hubcentric to the correct z32 hub diameter of 66mm this will be ok .Also dont use any more than a 6mm spacer without using longer studs .Remember the front and rear studs have a diffrent size spline diameters the front are( m12 x1.25 pitch with a 14.3mm sline )the rear are (m12x1.25 with a 13mm spline.

Blueprint are ok pads get them from any motorfactors cheap as well.

At the price of them stud extractors expect them to snap of even expensive ones snap .Why is the back of the crank shaft so rusty has the engine been outside without a flywheel on .

Im talking about the fronts i always put good new tyres ( falken 452) or( kuhmo) on the rears .

Any one recomend a good/average budget tyre around £70 each 235x40x18 thanks been looking at nankang ns2 thanks taff.

Just fixed clutch problem i think most of the problems are with 20 year old master cylinder seals .Spent ages trying to bleed (1 litre of fluid) still air and bubbles in pot ordered a new piston kit from Nissan expecting a few seals but you get a complete replacement cartridge piston -spring -seals -clip .Youl find the old seal is worn and the cartridge will slide out easy this is where i think bleeding becomes a problem because there not enough vacuum in the cylinder .after fitting new piston kit it bleed first time .I have the part no for this kit its £25 from Nissan .Bit of a pig to fit master cylinder. Also fitted a new blue print slave at the same time works a treat now. :gun_bandana:

Just fixed clutch problem i think most of the problems are with 20 year old master cylinder seals .Spent ages trying to bleed (1 litre of fluid) still air and bubbles in pot ordered a new piston kit from Nissan expecting a few seals but you get a complete replacement cartridge piston -spring -seals -clip .Youl find the old seal is worn and the cartridge will slide out easy this is where i think bleeding becomes a problem because there not enough vacuum in the cylinder .after fitting new piston kit it bleed first time .I have the part no for this kit its £25 from Nissan .Bit of a pig to fit master cylinder. Also fitted a new blue print slave at the same time works a treat now. :gun_bandana:

There s14 not s13/ s13 use the same a z32 a complete ring round the shock body .I have seen the half ring s14 style arms fitted to s13s before which is the same as a zed arm.They do fit but im not saying its safe .

Didnt think there was a fuel cut built into the factory ecu on these cars .

I thought it was only the manual box which was a diffrent bellhousing not sure on autos.