Funkysi

Cheers for the link and info guys. I have subframe locking collars! LOL

You're on late shift tonight Joel, I can tell! :rofl: ;)

Mine needs a clean too actually. Got some flies on the front and the exhausts need a polish! PM sent anywhooo.

I was in my Mondeo! Murt, I have no idea how you afford to run a Z as a daily driver when you're at college!!

I saw a photo of your car pop up on Astra Sport or MIG I think.

Does it happen during braking only?

You can't get a sports car and want to convert it to run LPG, it's a bit like pouring chocolate all over lettice. Not as bad as the idiot who wanted to convert his Z to a diesel though! LOL ;) I couldn't live with this on the side of my Z...

Can't believe you haven't seen the thread! LOL http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=109814

Looks like it was a CLK at one point. Poor car. Looks ugly to me, but goo workmanship. Reminds me of the Ferrari NSX thing. http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=6&i=54674&t=54674 Good work, but what a waste. Looked better before.

Looks like it's going to be a pleasant evening. Wondered if anyone fancied a mini-meet at Gordano Services tomorrow evening (Tuesday).

Saw you trundling down the 2+ lane about 9am this morning heading towards Downend.

There's a big Southern RR day that a number of SW members are already going to this month.

No it hasn't. The column was disconnected from the rack about a year and a half ago and I was running around in it with the boss off centre. It was put back to original settings by myself and Jimmer 2 weeks ago. Steering dead ahead with tab at top, then geometry set around that. So, the HICAS boss is top dead centre as it should be and the geometry is set up around that.

Yes Danny, I have the HICAS boss, hence why I said that I’d just re-aligned it. ;) The system was fine when I first bought the car, I’ve not changed anything on the steering wheel side of things. The HICAS boss needs the tab aligned with top dead centre which mine now is. I have thought about eliminating it, but I really want to keep everything that was fitted to the car, in full working order.

A problem I've had for some time as originally my geometry was completely on the cock and the HICAS boss was out of alignment. After rebuilding the suspension, set the dead-ahead position in relation to the tab at the top of the HICAS boss. Then, had all the geometry set. Drives perfectly, except when you accelerate quickly and the wheel then turns off centre. After a while (about 5 - 10 mins of driving), the HICAS light comes back on and the problem goes away. What I can't understand is; why, after setting everything up, does it still do this? The car drives perfectly and the geometry is set up correctly.

The Z has a push-me-pull-you type arrangement. There's a viscous fan on the engine side and a small fan on the other side.

I don't know where that is mate! I need you phone number.

How do you seperate the pedal from the arm?

Having a chat with Jimmer last weekend about Z prices. Have noticed that the prices for good ones seems to, at the very least, remained stable. Maybe even on the rise ever so slightly. Checking out some of the for sale ads in Piston heads especially, there are more TT-manuals going for the £5k+ mark than there were about a year ago.

Thanks for the info Darrell.

Oh right, you mean the track. Sorry.

Wheels point more outwards? Not sure I follow? You mean like this? (see front wheels)

I don't like it sorry. :( Looks untidy and doesn't fit the car. The under side bit just looks really out of place. I am sure if you moulded it to fit something like a lip spoiler and shaved a few inches off the width of the main peice it might look ok. Rear lenses are a big improvement. :)

I only fitted adj tension rods at the front. I have the rear camber arms. When eventually I do go for coilovers, I'll get the rear tension rods also. I am worried about the front tension rods. What Jimmer did was measure them against the old stock ones and adjusted. Drop is only subtle, so really, they shouldn't need to touch the tension rods, just adjust the camber arms?

As a guide, just wanting to see what camber you guys have yours set to? I want to keep a certain amount of mild negative camber and will adjust the rears to sit at the same angle. I like equal camber fr/rr as it makes the car look balanced. I'm now running a +25mm offset at the front and a +35mm at the rear which is pretty much as far as you can go without rolling the wings. I am not sure it's as aggressive as I'd have wanted, still looks good..... I am considering coilovers next year. Having all my tracking and camber sorted at Protyre tomorrow, so it should feel and look a lot better. :)