Funkysi

So running my 4 speakers from the headunit, powering trebble and lame mid-range (bass turned down low), with the amp being powered from the sub-woofer pre-out to a sealed box should be exactly what I need?

Thanks Athene, that kinda clears that up. For a more basic system, I guess I'll be fine with a simple sealed unit.

I do, but I also want some more mid-range and low end base from them. Not much, but something better.

...so why do some sub boxes contain ports then? Sorry, I'm a complete novice when it comes to ICE. Learning as I go.

Thanks guys! Darrel, that's similar to what I'm going to do. Also, I think I'll modify my Bose speaker enclosures and seal them up completely and will remove the metal speaker frames in the doors and will gut some Bose speaker boxes, mod them to accept 15cm speakers and seal. Should get some more bass definition shouldn't you think?

That doesn't make a lot of sense Bri. Sorry. :(

I thought you always needed a vent tube?

I am.... :cool: I'd go for 15mm and get some spacers for the rears. Bolt to hub spacers are good and you shouldn't have any problems. Plenty of the wide arch guys either use quality spacers or very wide wheels.

Right, I'm going to attempt building my own sub box. I had thought about getting a car audio shop to build me one, but I was always pretty good at carpentry and it's not a complicated shape. Because I have no audio engineering knowledge, I am at a bit of a stumbling block. Really need to know, in essence, what's the key to building something that not only looks good, but also does what it's supposed to and sounds good? Not after a mega system as sounds offs or high street parading aren't really my thing. So a single sub box for my for my 10" pioneer and amp is pretty much all I am after. I can't get the bass definition from my current speakers, even with sound deadening and new cabling. Quality is very good, but just can't get good bass. Not sure whether putting and amp on all 4 speakers would do anything as the Alpine headunit is quite a high output unit anyway. Since the HU has an pre-out for a sub, I can use the headunit to power the mid-range and trebble from the speakers and the sub pre-out for the sub.

Still undecided as to whether I'm going. Car looks a bit of a mess at mo and the weather looks like it's going to be pretty poop for the weekend. Will see how it looks.

Almost none. Had the coolant replaced when the engine was rebuilt a few years ago. It's down slightly on the rad cap, but you can still see it. Going to do a complete flush out anyway soon as I'll be doing a service on it shortly in readiness for some nice summer driving.

Could make a tweed convertible roof for someone! :mac1:

Good call! Cheers Pete! :cool:

I have a couple of old series 1 Z seats that I don't have a use for. Anyone know the best way to get rid of them? I don't think the local refuse place take old car parts? Is it a case of paying a car dismantlers money to take them off me?

I've driven an Evo M3 and performance wise, I'd not go for one over the Z. Not to mention, as a trade-in, unless it's between friends, you'll get pennies for it. Good cars though, but they just don't do it for me. You want to be wary of the vanos system in the Evo versions. Very expensive when they go wrong, which they do all seem to do. They are the variable valve timing that's fitted to them, to give the Evo version more power.

That's good. Not sure it makes any difference if it's JDM Terminals are the same on both UK and JDM surely? There's an A1 Motorspares about 7 miles from me, they stock Moura batteries, so think I'll pay them a visit.

You loose the chrome bezels then. Only centre panel for 99 spec rear lights is a 99-spec rear panel. Looks a little miss-matched otherwise.

That's not bad at all. Did you go for the correct size? 068 / 088? I need a new battery as I bought a 'get me home anysize' battery a few years ago which is still on it now! LOL Want the correct size so I can fit the battery box and carrier.

I wouldn't say it was a no, just very difficult, you'll just have to take the seat completely to bits. You'll also loose the lift mech as it'll be on the opposite side (PAX seat has 2, driver's has one). Lumber adjuster will be on the other side as a result. You'll have to take the base completely to bits to make a mount for the controls and then take the frame apart to weld a seat belt mount point to the other side. You can't simply get the frame from a passenger seat and fit as you'll loose all the capabilities to mount the motors.

Controls are different. The mount points are on the opposite sites for the controls too. ie, there's no fixing points for the controls if you swapped them over. You'd also have to weld on a bracket for the seat belt. I looked into it myself and it's a lot of work for something that you can already buy pre-made. I bought a set of series 2 front seats and used the passenger seat in mine when I did the retrim. I ran new cables under the carpet, spliced into the loom and managed to get hold of a connector and a bit of loom for the passenger side, so the wiring looks factory.

If you had the money it costs to buy the others, you really wouldn't care!

Gallardo without a shadow of a doubt. Might not be the quickest or expensive supercar, but it sure is the prettiest.

HB JD :duffer:

Does yes. I think the Laurel is smaller.

A Datsun 280C. It's been sat in a garage for about 15 years. Has about 40k on the clock and is pretty much mint. Datsun made a 240C and a 280C based on the Z cars' running gear. I think they were early versions of the 'Cedric' For those that don't know what they look like, see below. He's going to get some old-skool drift wheels and drop it. :cool: Best bit is, it's for free. Bit old-fashioned and boat like, but I bet with a few choice mods, it'll look ace!