Funkysi

Thank you guys. :) :) :)

I am old!

Hey Nick. :) If your car has been sat for a while, go through every connector thoroughly. All coil pack connectors, all injector connectors and the MAF connector. Once they're all clean if anything is misfiring try to go through an isolation process of swapping coil packs and spark plugs around. Also check the ampage of the injectors using a multimeter.

Options of automatic Z gearbox: ;)

19.....I can't remember much from that age. I think it was spent at uni in Southampton with a hangover. Last centaury now! Happy birthday kid!

Fairly common. If you've replaced one section only they won't seal up like buying both seals as the older one would have shrunk ever so slightly. This difference can be taken up by compressing the seals a little more via window adjustment. Pop off the door card and loosen the bump stops for the window to make the windows close slightly higher. This should sort the problem out.

No, it won't be due to the end cap. Is it coming in from the joint between ttop seal and roof seal?

'Should' yes....it all depends on the quality of components used, the extent of the rebuild and also the person rebuilding them. They fail much more frequently than brand new OEM ones. I was surprised when Joel had his reconditioned. Hope it lasts for you dude. I'm sure it will. I didn't wanna risk it personally and for peice of mind, I went with a new one whilst you could still buy them. :)

I bought mine last year from allcarpartsfast.co.uk for £330. It worked out quite a bit cheaper than getting it from the US. Not everything is cheaper in the US, many parts are cheaper through the right sources in the UK and now that the exchange rate isn't as good as it used to be, it's worth looking at UK sources as well as American. My starter motor too a while to arrive as it came from Japan, it wasn't from European stock so took about 5 weeks to arrive.

Jesus, that dash, what a mess! Could be a good project car though. Sort the front end out and the tailgate and fix the magpie interior and it would probably be a sweet example.

The solenoids break down. It could be a sign that it's on its way out. Mine quit on me by periodically not even turning over. I invested in a brand new OEM. I figured the original lasted 27 years, so there's no reason this new genuine one won't last the same amount of time. I haven't heard the best things from reconditioned units and I certainly wouldn't bother with a used one.

By the way, I do have mats in my car. They're the same colour as the carpet, deep pile too and have a subtle dark grey piping. They're very subtle and look nice and they do a great job of protecting the carpet which is absolutely immaculate. :)

Not especially. I was vaguely interested in a brand new set on Japanese Yahoo Auction but I've never seen nice ones for sale. They all looked like toilet carpet surrounds.

Gave the interior the first proper clean of the year. Comes up pretty nice. Took it out for a spin too as the weather down here in the South West was pretty nice. Ran beautifully and I'm really enjoying the quicker response with the SpecialtyZ flywheel, such a great upgrade and I highly recommend it.

Good good, even if they don't look perished, they've probably turned to plastic. :lol: Nickz32's tyres turned to plastic and delaminated when he stuck it on the rollers and I think his tyres were not as old.

They're 10 years old then, they really are overdue for replacement even if you have plenty of tread left of them.

How many years have your tyres been on your car?

Yes they are, the USDM ones are different also in appearance. The smoked ones you're thinking of are Euro spec corner blanks. They can be drilled to accept a bulb holder.

:lol: :lol: true!

If you took out all the incorrect information that Alic has posted and all the piss taking I have posted then it would probably back up 10x quicker. :lol:

http://www.conceptzperformance.com

Good man and looking forward to seeing it finished.

Welcome to the club. Jim is a great guy, very helpful and takes real pride in his work. I wouldn't take my Z anywhere else and have been using him since the mid 2000s.

I think you've missed the point a little. It's nothing to do with what one person likes or dislikes, it's purely an observation based on viewable evidence, it isn't an opinion on style or taste. Rust needs to be removed not 'treated', especially when it works its way from the inside out. Nothing to do with a clique either, it was a strong concern that you'd spent hard earned money on a what looks to be a below average welding job. Good luck with saving the car though. We all support you, but as a club, there are always going to be people who become concerned with elements of repair jobs and just want the best for their owners. I know someone who's going through a court case at the moment for sub standard welding work.

This is exactly what it is. I've been messed around by folk who have claimed they knew what they were doing (poor quality paint jobs) and I'd hate to see someone else stung by poor quality work. It's upsetting and depressing.