Funkysi

Where's this 500bhp number come from then!? :confused: A bigger intercooler is better for all concerned whether you're running over a certain HP or not. If you're going big numbers, SMICs are also the way to go. No huge bumpers and SMICs on SpecialityZs 8 second Z32 TT. Jaffa's 650hp track weapon or most of the other high HP Z32s you'll see around the world. The majority of the notable big hp Z32s across the globe will run SMICs - usually Ashspec Massivs or similar. I do get what you're trying to put across, but neither are needed - having an FMIC is purely an 'appearance' thing. Mechanically, there's no advantage and IMO, why stick something in front of the rad.

That makes no sense.

....well they used to. Not listed anymore. Try MJP. Failing that, your next best bet is from Z1.

Zcentre and they're about £1500 the pair iirc.

I have clips, so don't worry about that. If it's free from orange paint, stains and tatty edges, I'll have it! :)

How 'really good shape' is it? I'm looking for a really good one.

They said the same about Allegro - and they were right. Odd isn't it. :)

You MUST destroy yours when you remove it! PLEASE! :) JonLowndes smashed his up for the good of humanity! ;)

:scared:

:scared:

My sentiments exactly. There's absolutely no need or reason to obscure the radiator when there are SMICS out there that are as efficient for no real extra cost. Less pipework, less blocking airflow.

Looks like you have your work cut out! Whoever painted it before....just WOW! lol

8-track was a bit before my time, but I remember top-spec Ford Granadas having those analogue equalisers!

I ditched that snout too! You MUST DO IT! lol ;)

Yeah, I didn't know whether you'd had horrible dump valves in before - some people plug the pipes for the recircs after fitting DVs as a way of bypassing them.

Thanks! Well this is my first real foray into audio. I've fitted new head units and speakers before, but never really anything further than that. Saying that, this is all pretty basic stuff, I just want it all neat and hidden!

Tweeter finally installed in the duct which has now been fitted to the door card. I've trail fitted the door card and all the wiring clears! Anyway, here's the little beastie hiding away there! This is with a torch shining inside it at an obscure angle. You can JUST about make it out, but it's very well hidden, but close to the aperture. I've now fitted my AndrewG-routed speaker spacers and have glued them in with a strong black silicone and smoothed that all off, so that it's nice and neat. Speakers will be screwed through the spacers and the bracket. I've offered the speakers in and the speaker chassis doesn't make contact with the bracket. So my continuation of having everything fitted neatly and out-of-sight is continuing!

Glad it wasn't anymore. I was quite confident you didn't have any major issues. I think your car just needs a damn good run! Shame you need an MOT before you can really do that!! Your recirc valves haven't been plugged have they? Very healthy compression results BTW.

:bow:

The shape is too complex for me to do on MS Paint as I've done before. I don't have photoshop I'm afraid as it went when my old laptop blew up, so I can't help this time.

Reckon you should change the entire bumper IMO. But if you must keep it, I think it would look better with the black bits on it. Are you going to paint the roof bars gloss black? That's an absolute must over the satin IMO. :)

SMIC all the way.

Oooh wow. Wonder if a club member has bought it? SPEAK NOW or forever be silent! I hope it continues to stay in this unmolested state. It would be so utterly tragic if it were ruined by some great big ugly bodykit and/or gawky bumper.

It'll take a good few miles to get the car running right if it's been stood. You may have got a bit of bore-wash too. I don't think that's a gasket failure mate. TBH, just stick a hose pipe into the rad to flush that top silt out. The rest of the system will have enough anti-freeze, you can do another flush after you've made sure it's running right. The only trouble with doing coolant flushes is that sometimes, it can dislodge previously undisturbed corrosion that could lead to a leak.

Only just saw the photo. Looks like rust/silt, not oil. Take the rad out and flush it through completely. Your engine has just pushed all of the years of silt into that part of the cooling system - it does it with them all.