Everything posted by Funkysi
-
Heat Matrix hoses - RHD and LHD the same?
i think they are too, it's only the pipework on the actual matrix which is different. Think I'll order them. :)
-
HICAS - How does it work and what if it doesn't work?
There are, they're mostly owned though as generally ones that are in good rust-free condition have been enthusiast-owned and continue to be. If you can't find what you want in this country, the best bet is to look at a fresh import. The quality of Z32s is going up, but that's generally within enthusiast-circles. Very occasionally one of those will come up for sale.
-
Heat Matrix hoses - RHD and LHD the same?
Looks like one of my heater matrix hoses has started to let go. I can't seem to locate the part number on nissan4u and the part code on CZP is for a twin pack (both hoses included) which doesn't appear on allcarpartsfast. They look almost the same from images I've seen, but sometimes that can be deceiving, so just want to double check before I press the button. https://conceptzperformance.com/nissan-infiniti-nissan-oem-heater-core-coolant-hose-set-nissan-300zx-z32-92400-30pkt_p_959.php
-
Revolfe Tuning Japan
£400 isn't bad to be honest for high quality forged wheel. Lovely wheel too.
-
JaiKai - MK2 - Ziggy Build
Nice to see it in the final stages. How come you didn't just wire the horns to the existing harness? Have you fitted air horns or something?
-
HICAS - How does it work and what if it doesn't work?
This is true in part however this particular car is an auto. Autos do not generate the same values as manual Z32s, this Z also looks like it's been run on a bit of a shoestring the past 3 years, so expect to do some costly maintenance. Those top value figures you suggest are for very very clean manual examples as you've identified, to get a car to that level requires serious investment and if you have a car which has a considerable amount of advanced corrosion to it, you're not going to see any return on your investment. This was more of a 'be wary, I wouldn't go there' bit of advice and that was not because of a cheap HICAS fix but for the rest. You can still find rust-free auto Z32s in better condition for not much more. £500-£1000 more and you'd get a car you'd probably have £2000 less to pay on for maintenance and rust repair. Just the law of diminishing returns. Whilst Z32 prices continue to rise for high quality examples, we haven't reached that point and we won't for a long time where you can call a Z restoration an 'investment'. It'll still be a money pit as so many are in a poor state still. A good project car with less rust is all I am advising. Quality rust repair is very expensive and time consuming.
-
HICAS - How does it work and what if it doesn't work?
This is why I suggest avoiding this rusty Z. :)
-
HICAS - How does it work and what if it doesn't work?
Joel is on nightshift again, I wouldn't pay any attention to him. :lol:
-
HICAS - How does it work and what if it doesn't work?
Think you'll find those printed not painted. :lol:
-
HICAS - How does it work and what if it doesn't work?
Dump valves make me cringe at the best of times, dump valves on an auto is like a poor comedy act. :lol: Mirror your sentiment re:HICAS. Sometimes the inner seals go and you'll only notice if you take the inner joint boots off.
-
HICAS - How does it work and what if it doesn't work?
I'd not drive anywhere to see that. It has a very colourful MOT history listing rust as one of the number of advisories or failures repeatedly over the past few years. It's fairly cheap though although you'd spend quite a lot addressing the corrosion on what is essentially an automatic Z. For 500 more I dare say you could find one with a much better underside.
-
Auto dash bezel
Bit of an odd request since I have a manual. It's for a little project I'm doing to create a telltale for a future Traction Control switch and telltale warning light utilising the spare section on the binacle normally used in automatics only. The bezel doesn't need to be in good condition and I'm not bothered whether it's from a TT or NA as it's for a mockup only. It just needs to have what's in the below photo. If any additional pigtail can be chopped off from the corresponding harness, that would be great. Imagine Alec might have what I'm looking for?
-
Nissan OEM vs Wiring Specialities Loom
Nissan global parts supply is a little fragmented. Many of the high value parts are often ordered through US vendors from folk here as in many cases, they work out substantially cheaper. US vendors generally buy from Nissan USA or their local dealership that also buys from Nissan USA. The issue comes is that the supply chain in Tennessee and the supply chain in Tokyo are on two totally different systems and the two don't talk. Nissan USA have their own parts inventory within the US so parts might go NLA in the US but not in Japan and vice versa, crazy, but it's easier for Nissan to manage no doubt. Z1 and CZP for a while managed to buy in a number of RHD OEM harnesses from Japan to serve both the international market and the growing number of RHD imports on its own turf. That stock has now gone away however the part numbers are still showing as active on UK (Japan) systems buying through either a UK Nissan dealership or a UK vendor for Nissan parts for harnesses up to 94, you'd need to find the part number for a 95+ from an imported car on FAST or something. NMUK and the Nissan dealer network in the UK look at a logistics centre in Amsterdam, that in turn looks directly at their stock warehouse in Japan which is in Zama just south of Tokyo, the US systems don't look at this site. The only issue is that those harnesses are upward of £850 from UK sources whereas they were less than half that price buying from the US. Unfortunately only LHD harness are available in the US for that cheap price. They can be fitted to RHD cars with a little bit of 'cable management'. I don't know anyone who's dug deep and bought a RHD harness from a UK source, however when talking to a dealership, the parts are still showing as being active, but that could automatically change if you were to order it and Nissan Japan turned round saying it's NLA, it won't automatically register as NLA unless someone tries to order it and they're out. Nissan UK whilst being able to look to Japan for stock have no way of telling what's physically in stock there. When I was in Japan earlier in the year, I ordered a bunch of parts from one of the dealerships in Naha and their system will tell you what's left in the country. Turns out I had the very last early style RHD driver side wing mirror glass in the country/world. I have contacts in Japan, so it might be possible to purchase directly from Nissan Japan, however shipping and import dues will nail the cost no doubt. FWIW from various people on here who've bought from WS, there's practically no difference in their RHD and LHD harnesses so you're better off buying a new LHD harness. My plan is to buy a 1995+ harness as it comes with new style injector connectors and the wiring modification to accept S2 PTU. The only thing I'll have to do is to get the new style CAS which I'd rather do than hack up a new early style harness to fit different plugs and hardwire in the S2 PTU secondary harness (which was a bodge from Nissan).
-
Nissan OEM vs Wiring Specialities Loom
What part was a bit of a surprise?
-
2018 Event Calendar
We won't be as a club. Some members go and enjoy it, but it's become a pretty dreary show by all accounts. Their main point of promotion until recently was 'tug of war' and '5-a-side football'. I couldn't be any less interested in something. :lol:
-
Nissan OEM vs Wiring Specialities Loom
OEM is much better quality. The WS ones are OK, better than a tatty old original harness, but the OEM connectors are of better quality and it's just a bit better made. Only LHD ones are still available however RHD ones might still be available in Japan. Through UK network they're some £850+
-
On a road trip for a forged engine.
No, that's with GB Enterprises in Somerset. A chap I've known for ages, very techy and has been tuning cars for 20 years. He also makes his own products. Very switched on guy. He has a new £200k 2,500hp AWD rolling road. Impressive gear.
-
On a road trip for a forged engine.
Around £1000 fitted plus the tune which is a similar cost to tune with a NISTUNE so another £400-£600. That's the basic setup, whilst it is plug and play there are a few things that need to be removed or added such as MAF removal and addition of a wide band which I don't have the cost for. It comes with a MAP sensor I believe.
-
On a road trip for a forged engine.
Sounds good. Joel's also wanting to go the LINK route too. :)
-
On a road trip for a forged engine.
....but I wasn't talking about the folks starting out. You brought that up. ;) I've happily run a chip for years and they're adequate. Lee is not just going to adding boost jets and chip for his power increase. He has bigger turbos, injectors and a forged engine. :)
-
On a road trip for a forged engine.
I disagree with that. It can be of benefit for any engine regardless of power. With the added speed, it will enable the engine to run more power, even at low levels much more safely. In addition, as its hard to find a RL now, adding the G4 will give you that function. The cost of an RL was around £500 iirc? The cost of a Selin is around the same when you factor in the cost of an additional maf. The cost for a good EBC is is between £100 and £250, the cost of a NISTUNE board is more again. I'm sure you can see where I'm going with this. As an up to date feature, especially if you're running new injectors, the extra expense is not considerable especially when you consider that you're futureproofing it and adding so much extra functionality and safety. It also adds much quicker response even on low power levels. Link G4 is a very simple plug and play system, you didn't need to add much else other than a wideband to get you started.
-
On a road trip for a forged engine.
Speak to any tuner of Haltech or Link ECUs and there'll tell you that it's a slow processing power compared to modern systems. Tuning is much easier and quicker on modern ECUs and they can react a LOT faster than the old processor design in the stock ECU. It may be up to the job in its most basic form, but it's in no way up to modern speeds. It's a 30 year old processor.
-
On a road trip for a forged engine.
Link G4 is a wonderful peice of kit. The stock processor in the Z32 is woefully slow, even with a NISTUNE board which essentially piggybacks. I'm considering Link G4 next year as it's also a great way to have the added security of not only fast reacting knock control but also other accessories such as traction control and boost control. With my planned upgrades of 740cc injectors, GT525s and a few other exhaust modifications, I want that added tuneability and fast response with all the additional safety that they have to offer.
-
Volk Racing SE37 refresh/recolour.
Lovely wheel those are. :)
-
Newbie looking into a Japanese Sports car - Should it be a 300ZX???
That's probably because it's a Mountune. ;)