Funkysi

Is this the same show that in years gone by was stuffed full of Saxos with 18" wheels, flamer exhausts and half a boat glued to them? Damn it's changed - for the better by the looks of it apart from a few nasty looking drift wagons.

Sorry I couldn't make it today guys. Spent last night blowing chunks and this morning feeling like death. Gutted!

Not quite sure what you mean - do you already have coilovers? You surely must be able to adjust them to reduce the gap. What do you mean by adjustable stroke length?

No, but Vig's bought a lovely F-type. :)

The only trouble with the powder coat which is applied stock is that it's very thin and has no primer powder coat. Mine have been redone in black with the proper powder coat base and then a heavy application of powerboat black.

DN1 - Cobalt Green Pearl is a factory colour and was available on late 94 to 97 models. You'll find some Euro spec cars in the colour, however never UK cars which ended in 94.

Hard at work dude!

Woah! Calm down there Jethro! I didn't jump on anyone! :lol:

:rofl: :lol:

VersionsR 2+2 looks better than the 2+0 as the spoiler looks way too big on a 2 seater IMO.

I don't. Keep the standards of language at a good level. There's no excuse for laziness. I'm no Poet Laureate, nor will I ever been a Man-Booker prize winner, but I believe in good grammar and making an effort to the use of your own language - GCSE stuff! lol :) ...not to mention that almost every computer you use has its own spell checker.

Tell that to Jaffa who's running 700hp+ and plenty of others around the world running high end builds! :) My Z runs just as well for example and regular plug inspection tells me they're doing just fine.

Not driving in the rain! :lol:

If your engine is 100% stock, then they're 'ok'. They're a fairly standard plug design and I personally wouldn't use them again. Those plugs were the old recommended plugs when Nissan and NGK had a corporate agreement in place to use those specific plugs, they may still do. Modern iridium plugs, if correctly selected, are better and run cooler which are much better for Zs with any upgrades. BKR7EIX Iridium plugs are what I use. The PFR6B-11B is not a cold running plug, nor is the 'C' denoted plug, indeed I thought that plug had now been discontinued, needless to say it was a plug fitted for longevity which is why it is noted as such in Nissan service manuals. The iridium plugs won't last as long, but for a cheap item that gives a cooler tip, it's a better solution.

Correct, anything else you've seen has found its way in via the import route. There are quite a number of US military bases in Germany and you'll find quite a few came in via US servicemen and were then sold on. There are a number of LHD SWB and convertibles in continental Europe.

Japan got everything, Europe got 2+2 TT only, UK until late 94 and mainland until 96. US slicktops were all NA, there are a number of Twin Turbo convertibles which were sold but these were all converted from new factory-spec 2 seaters, not the Nissan manufactured convertible. All their 2+2s were NA also. Australia interestingly enough only had the 2+2 in NA - same lighting configurations as UK models. I never understood why Nissan didn't launch the TT in Australia as it would have been a great rival to some of the Aussie muscle cars of the time. All TTs you'll find there will all be Japanese imports. Canada had similar trim levels to the US, but interestingly had the head lamp washer jets found fitted to all Euro-spec models.

The 300 degree camber kits only adjust for around a 20cm drop iirc. All but the Eibach springs go lower than this.

I've seen two occurrences where that's happened and probably because they fitted them the wrong way round. I have had no such issues. The amount of failures of solid bushed Midori style FUCAs I've seen is extremely high, sure there are more in the market place, but they are known to be troublesome.

I have these, they're very good. MUCH better than the awful solid bearing FUCAs and stronger too.

That may or may not have been the right tyre. If you can look on the back of the hub, it should be stamped there along with the offset. 35 profile is what you want on the rear if you're running 18s.

As with what Yowser said. What is your wheel width and offset? If you have a 10" wheel for example, 265 is going to be too stretched. As a rule of thumb based on widths alone, I'd recommend the following. 9" : 265 9.5" : 275 10" : 285 10.5" : 295 Depending on your offset though will also depend on what you can and can't fit.

As above, it's secured to a bonded bracket on the door card by way of small screws. You'll need to refit it if you want your door card to be secure.

I considered fattening up the wheel, but you loose some of the lines and the profile of the middle spoke which carries on to the horn pad, so I decided to keep the thickness stock. I don't like the thumb rests. I've seen it done and they just don't look right for some reason. The leather is Italian hide - that's as far as I know. I'm sure Mondo can tell you more!

An hour later and it would have been me!