Dazsw

Brilliant!

Mobil 1 Super 3000 5w-40.

Turns out either it didn't have AIVs or they have been removed, the PRVR thing is also already removed. I have now removed the air regulator. I've got the front bumper off checking some stuff, I see my car still has the auto box cooler at the front, as it's been convereted to a manual I would assume this can be safely removed?

I have just been out under my car today having fun with Waxoyl. Stripped off all the plastic at the front off the car and also the engine undertray, then covered everything in a nice thick coat, and hard to reach areas I will use the sprayable stuff rather than the brushable. I actually prefer it to Dinitrol, I did an experiment a few years back on another car I owned. Covered half in Dinitrol and half in Waxoyl, after a bad winter the Dinitrol side looked rusty again but the Waxoyl side was fine. As well as that, there is a car I scrapped and nearly 10 years later I seen it still at the scrap yard, the parts I had used Waxoyl on where still in great nick, the rest of the car was rusting away. It does neat heated, and it messy, but works for me.

The more I look at that white engine bay, the more I want my car to look like that :) Shame there are not many 300zx gurus nearby to help, every car club I've been a member of it's always the same, you can count the Scottish members almost on one hand.

Funny you mention the t on the air valve, I have capped off the side with the air regulator. What about the other side of the t, can that hose/brackets/etc also be removed and capped or is that 100% required for the idle valve to function?

Not sealed properly mate.

I just dis-connected the air regulator and capped the hose ends. My car started and idled so much better without it, looks easy enough to delete, just remove it and cap a few ends?

Shame as the plenum was off recently when the injectors where upgraded to 555s. Not by me though that was at a garage, wish I had planned this then and life would be much easier. Is it ok to delete the air regulator?

Did I mention I'm no mechanic lol, that engine bay looks super smooth, I'm a long way from there though lol.

The simple, easy stuff first would be good for me :)

Car is now off the road till the weather improves in March/April. I'm no mechanic but do like to play around and sort what I can. I hate how cluttered the Zed engine bay is know guys delete certain things. Just now I'm trying to get the air regulator off and it's just a pain, so would like to delete what I can to make things less cluttered and easier to access. What would you recommend deleting guys?

Ferrari F40. Loved them since I was a kid, still an amazing machine just now considering how old they are.

A few of the connectors on my zed engine are needing replaced. Namely the air regulator and both the idle valve connectors. They are cheap in the US at around $6 but shipping is crazy expensive. Z Centre do them but but around £12 a connector which is insane. Are there any other Nissan cars that we can get these same/similar connectors for? I've managed to do this with other cars, but not sure which other Nissans may have what we need. Or can anyone suggest another seller of these? Thanks guys.

I've only tried painting small areas before, it's a steep learning curve. Same with polishing, looks easy but to achieve a top finish takes practice. I was told buy a good guy that you should never attempt a large area, until you can get a small area 100% perfect, and this worked for me. Hope you get it sorted mate.

My car tends to start around 1500-1700, hang around there for a few mins then slowly come down to the correct idle over the preceeding minutes. Once warm tps and base idle have been set correctly previously. I'm looking at the air regulator as having a problem, as this seems to stay open for way too long, pig to remove though!

Cheers for the reply mate, guess no-one else starts their car from cold lol.

What rpm does your Zed idle immediately upon starting?

A little bit of smoke of any kind doesn't mean anything is broken. If you've driven the car you must know how it feels, oil pressure, etc?

What real benefits would this offer over a standard filter, really?

I'm after a full, complete and working fuel pump and cradle for an Import 1992 LWB TT. I've been told there are different variations, I just thought it would be one for the LWB and one for the SWB, maybe someone can clear that up? Leave a message here or PM if you have one. Cheers.

Almost every time I take my Zed out now someone always comments on how great they still look and on how well looked after my car is. Many people are amazed it's 22 years old, puts cars that are 5 years old to shame. I have always loved the styling of the Z, for a car designed and released in the late 80's, it really was way ahead of it's time. Most of the cars I like from back then look so boxy, square and out-dated, the Z still looks class.

Not normal that's shafted. If it's touching the sides now what do you think would happen at 40,000 rpm, it will be all over the place. Rebuild time.

I'm currently with Sky Insurance, but after seeing this I will give Classic Line a call tomorrow.

No fault codes at all mate.