tomfromthenorth

:) still... I blame spending too long in military crewrooms :lol:

I am sorry, that was me typing faster than I was thinking there Si, it is easy to treat america and americans as things that only exists in pictures, I didn't think through the fact that to you it is almost a second home. I feel a right knob, I will be more thoughtful in future.

Yeah I am pretty sure that is what it was, but it wasn't just, beep safety boost. The warning parameter had changed itself to like -10 psi (the unit is in KPa so I don't know exactly) so it was a constant beep beep beep beep! Hashtag not a happy bunny :lol:

I downloaded a pdf of it and it made no mention of a persistant beep beep and safety boost. But I have now fixed it. The solenoid unit had been moved and got wet, this upset the electrics and reset the unit. This put the overboost parameters really low and had it stressing out even on vacuum. A hard reset a hairdryer and a lot of wild button presses later and it is fixed.

My car was working fine, then mid drive beep beep beep from the glovebox and 5psi max boost. The boost controler is beeping persistently and displaying no obvious error codes. I have fiddled and fiddled with it to no avail. There is no obvious problem in wiring or plumbing. Please help.

When I do it the plan is to sit at 60 on the motorway for long commutes and set off 15 minutes earlier. It will be a bit revvier in 5th but its like 40kgs lighter and you will feel like you have another 50 horsepower. It's not gonna make it much worse day to day because below 60mph you can just be one gear higher and it will be exactly the same as it was with the TT diff.

:oops: you learn something new every day :) Well today I had a mini zed date with Mondo who very kindly swapped my passenger seat for a lovely fresh looking one, one that isn't upholstered in black nasty tape and looking like something from the dark scary corner found at the back of an Ann Summers. Then, rather later than I should have, I hit the road North to Elgin. Now I know that I am a bit strange and I like cars a bit too much (a walk round the metro centre car park is a decent day out if you ask me) but I had an awesome drive up the road. I did about 270 miles in cruise control at 75 never touching the brakes, like an 80s arcade game I sidestepped between the 3 lanes manouvering around the thinly spread traffic consisting mostly of lorries and tankers, however tonights graphics were definitely more playstation 4 than zx spectrum. Like a never ending artwork from a bottle of Glenfiddich the cairngorms rolled by, scattered with stag and topped with patches of snow, and as I clicked the wipers to their most furious setting, patches of fog rolled down the valley sides like 5 storey cotton wool balls to lie in staggered file down my route. By this point my fuel was running low, in a more modern car it should recognise you are in Scotland and put the fuel light on at a half tank, a little blue and white flag next to it with the caption "it's a canny push to the next village matey!". Stubborn and optimistic I passed a quarter of a tank as I watched myself drive past the last garage in Aviemore, then a sign "Elgin 60 miles". I flicked the BY-CAS to 4WS and was in full momentum mode, to brake now risked me becoming the AA's most costly customer, punching through the fog patches like a spitfire (or possibly the red barron) I did the last 60 miles in 60 minutes, my heart in my mouth. If my fuel gauge had one of those second tell tale needles, like you get on the rev counters of old touring cars to show the high water mark of max RPM, it would show that it hadn't just explored the bottom of the empty part of the gauge, but was well and truly pioneering into the bottom of the Marianas trench and sticking in a flag! As I pulled up I did my now habitual walk-round feeling my calipers, a result of warping a 3 foot stack of brake discs, I grade the temperature on a relative to a fresh cup of tea scale, tonight they were all iced frapachino. :)

Its a BDE performance rebuild kit for the stock recirc valves. Mine were doing the goose honk which sounds nothing like a goose, it sounds like blowing over the top of a milk bottle, or running a wet finger round a wine glass top, somewhere between those two noises. If you go on the BDE site they only sell about 4 things, pulleys, engine mounts, fuel rails and these "goose honk killers" The honk is because the valve is like a plunger/piston and a spring, the spring gets worn, (made worse by increased boost) the noise is it recirculating while on boost. The kit is just a stiffer spring that holds it closed more firmly. So now it is a little bit too stiff but that is actually benificial, it recircs enough air to relieve stress as it is designed to, but some goes back through the turbo blades and chatters, and some stays ready to be eaten by the engine after an upshift, really really responsive, zero lag on upshifts.

Thanks guys, it will be at TOTB :-) I don't know what it would do on a dyno, it did 430 and 460 ft lbs, I think it is more now perhaps 20/30 bhp but it's more the fact that I can just drive it now. The brakes are front flip powerful, If I want to I can upshift abuseively and keep the turbos spooled for an indulgent giggle, or boost in 4th for a torque overtake and it doesn't conplain. But the responsiveness is... its like a non turbo, and it runs so much cooler now, I am not squinting through a heat haze coming off the nose any more, and If I drive it quickly it is like a cold morning from start to finish. I'm going for a drive :biggrin:

I know you have read my long xtd post but the competition clutch I have now works fine. I think I could pick up a girl in the car and hide the fact that it has a clutch like a light switch If I am really careful. It's not unbearable and totally totally normal after you have pulled away, the light flywheel makes rolling changes 'more' forgiving. The one I am using is good for 650bhp. I don't know exactly which one off their site but its a sprung 6 puck.

Thank you Automodz, today I have done some mileage, i've been on full boost in an impreza, my zed an Evo V and probably the equivalent in a dash 8 aircraft and an intercity :lol: So I picked it up with the following and probably more: Competition clutch and 5kg flywheel Full diagnostic Underseal Laugh out loud A3 intercoolers Ash spec 2.5 inch intercooler piping Biiiiig oil cooler Huge radiator Air con delete, Whole world of crap removed, carbon canister etc, a large box of it. Uprated recirc valves that now somehow, dump, honk a tiny bit and give compressor surge, spaceship noises because racecar haha New fuel lines odds and sods a nice tidy up all round. So I left a load of little black 11s across nottingham in the wet with a new paddle clutch then wafted up the motorway. This isn't an exageration, there is no lag. Auto turbos, auto cams, 16psi with a tight drivetrain no AC and a selin dual apexi and maf set up with 2.5inch pipes! The result is that you apply 1cm of throttle at 60/70 in 5th and it is "whoosh-whach-ts-ts-ts-ts" K SPORTS!!!! It is bloody nuts! I then had a good passenger in my cousins new evo, long review short, it's kneck whipping fast because it has close gears and traction like he is cheating on a playstation. Great car. I had a good poke round spin doctor's car too, mate it's lovely, :thumbup1: couldn't find a blemish insde or out, lovely clean interior. And finally the clutch has softened up loads and is significant more progressive than it was 400 miles ago, thats right it has been a good day :biggrin:

Nevermind the second picture the girl driving that red zed looks alright, cant say the same about the 350 drivers! Anyway, I am in Wetherby services atm having an upper crust sandwich, but today I got a lift from Elgin to Aberdeen in a Doctor mate's blue light scooby. Then flew to Birmingham before getting 2 trains to Nottingham and a short walk to Automodz. The cost £44 air fare, £22 for the trains and me cooking Pam a curry last night. Better than the £160 direct train from Elgin! Obviously my fuel gauge moves faster than the boost gauge but I'm not counting that because THE CAR IS AWESOME! :-D

That colour is beautiful, absolutely perfect choice mate.

Thought I'd let you guys know tge outcome of all this. After as much use as we could give it in the time availiable it got no better. So mark took it off and had a look, it had bedded but showed no signs of glazing or overheating etc, the pressure plate was found to be totally stock, so the only additional clamping is a product of the reduced surface area giving a bit more pressure. We ordered a competition clutch equivalent and it is better in every way and doesn't slip at all. So it turns out the xtd can't cope with 460 ft lbs. That said if anyone wants it (not inc. The flywheel I kept that on) offers please, as it will hold somewhere more than stock but less than 460 ft lbs, thats all I can say. Thanks to all that helped in this matter :)

I used tomfromthenorth as a straightliners username, but also put Tom Wilson on another bit of the form. Thanks again for sorting this out :thumbup1:

Paid up! Can I wear my race suit :lol:, I'm like a kid with a spiderman costume with that suit haha. Oh that reminds me, I have more rally stuff to put up from the Jim Clark, fortunately I was no where near the incident, I'll put it in my rally thread.

So sorry to hear that, I dont know what to say but I would be rocking in the corner if I was in your position so my hat is off to you mate. :clover:

Welcome to the forum mate :thumbup1:

Car, £3000 Major service and once over £1500 Brakes x 4 sets £3000 Wheels £1000 Respray £1000 Odds and sods inc. remap £1000 £10'000 ish, if I went on piston heads with £10 grand I would not have a car I like or trust as much. edit: and £1800 at Mark's place :hang:

A wise decision, enjoy some time away from it, and good luck for when you get back at it.

I wasn't far off then. That is very heavy for a new GTR!

Mate I can't fjnd it, only cars that are stripped out. The lightes car is the swb slicktop manual and slick pete has one thats about 1200kgs a stock fat car as I said is about 1650 and the seats weigh a bloody ton (40kgs or so) so if you have bucket seats and an NA diff, you have a fairlady superlagera. But yours has like 100kgs of attitude :)

Slick pete has listed this, ill do a quick search mate bht lwb tt targa is about 1640kgs with an average build driver. Is it your power to weight ratio haha, I think mines about 270hp per tonne at best!

Haha right! Taking one apart would have been easier than reading pages and pages of text but now I have a good Idea I'll have a go. A viscous lsd is simple, cheap and takes a lot to wear it out, but the drawback is the lock effect is softer to come on and not as strong as a mechanical one. If you want a really tight diff or want it to lock under deceleration you need a mechanical one. There are many types that do the same thing in different ways I imagine due to patent issues, quaife, zf, torsen etc. So, a diff needs to detect rapid increases in wheel speed and upon detection lock both sides together, or, more accurately send torque to the not spinning side. A mechanical diff often uses helical gears to 'detect' the torque. A helical gear will have a thrust force associated with it's rotation. Imagine you have an electric screw driver with a gnarly old wood screw on it. You hold this out like a wand and lay the screw on vinyl on a record player. You could use the electric screwdriver to rotate the record and record deck but the screw would be trying pull itself forward out of your hand because the thread would 'climb' on the vinyl. This is how a helical gear has a thrust associated with the input torque. Now the screw is the helical gear and the vinyl is a circular crown gear, as torque increases the shaft with the helical gear will move forward a bit. This moving forward a bit then either rams a little cone inside a big cone and locks the back end together (cone type) or is attached to a clutch pack (clutch type). There are a couple of these things in a diff, it will look like a shaken up box of Knex inside! This effect obviously only works in acceleration, 1 way diff, or you can have springs pushing on the clutch/cones all the time then the helical gear thrust effect as well, this is a 1.5 way diff; this means off throttle its still a bit lsd. Or use full on white mans magic and a system of freewheels and **** knows what and you have one that does it under braking too 2 way diff. About right pete?

I really like that idea, but that's not how our diffs work. I don’t know about mechanial locking ones perhaps they do that sort of thing, but ours are viscous so all done with oil. This is how I understand viscous diffs. There is a box of thin discs in special diff oil. A bit like a spindle of cds that sort of size and about 6 discs. The plates are thin metal with holes in them like 5p sized holes. The oil has a property (to do with surface tension and shear viscosity) that when swirled up by the spinning of these discs (which are attached to the half shafts) basically does a cornflour and goes fairly solid. So no wheelspin diff is open, but if there is a lot of difference in the speed of these discs, the oil is agitated and it locks up. Bit off topic but like the clockwork idea, I'll have to look up how mechanical locking ones work.