Raja93

Been a while since the last update. After the rebuild and paintwork last year, I didn’t get the Z back on the road fully until October last year which only gave me a month until winter hibernation. This year I’ve been driving it quite a bit which has been fantastic; evenings after work on sunny days, all throughout weekends and since I’ve changed jobs to another firm who pays private car mileage, I’ve been using the Z to drive to work meetings where I know the roads are great 😃. Whenever I’m driving hard (most the time!), I’m grateful I had Jimmer build the engine as it’s been faultless over quite a lot of mileage this summer. Next on the list is interior; sound system, modern alarm and retrim.

Great work from our resident engineer 👍🏽. They look like a perfect match.

Although I don't like Defenders in general, I do completely get the appeal of a V8 SWB one with tarted up interiors. £80k though ouch!

Oh I didn't realise there were loads of people on Facebook going too. Thought after Tom's pulled out, it was only me! I'm not very reliable with shows as you know Tom - if it's raining I won't bother going so probably best to give the flags to Richard or Ian in case.

Ah if you’re not going then I’m cancelling! No one else interested either.

Link G4X ecu has traction control and launch control features. It’s more than enough for most people who run road cars 600-800hp without fault. If you’re going competition/serious track weapon, it’s probably worth stepping upto something like a Haltech.

The worst bit is the government should be leading by example and but instead they put the onus onto the public to fork out the money for shitty electric cars. Referencing the ideas Tom mentions, they should be giving incentives to businesses and large corporations to make change which would have a mass reduction on emissions. When technology like hydrogen cars were being explored by Honda and Toyota over 15 years ago, the governments didn’t incentivise the R&D into that or the infrastructure upgrades to accommodate it - all because oil business was too big and huge brown envelopes were probably passed around to block alternative fuels going ahead. Now it’s too late, realised they have to do something and in a mad rush to promote electric cars. So now my daily driver which has one of the best Diesel engines ever made, that’s good for another 150k miles in my hands, isn’t Ulez compliant but the petrol version that does 200 miles less to a tank is compliant!! Good thing I hardly ever drive into London but if the Ulez disease spreads to my end, then I’m stuffed! +1 for a revolution 😆

Go for Link, it’s the favourite for Z32’s in the UK. Plug and play in regards to harnesses.

Saw it on eBay at £40,000 for quite a while, last year I believe.

Welcome back to the club 🙂. What a beautiful Z you have! I’m looking to get my interior re trimmed pretty much like yours - where did you get it done? Love the Akebonos btw, I have them on mine too.

I second that 100%. Jimmers labour and machine shop costs were a small fraction of the total build. Yours and most people who rebuild have a similar parts list / cost I had, so I would not want to risk having to buy them all again. Even if you have to wait to save to get Jim to sort it, I’d do that. On the Link ECU, I had to get mine trailered to the tuner to map it first before we could drive it. Not sure if you already had a map before with this set up? If so, then should be ok to start and run. Tuner said to us do not attempt to drive it due to the new set up (cams etc).

I was thinking starter related too, as no cranking.

Definitely go for new ones. Not worth the risk on brake and fuel lines IMO. When the corrosion returns, which it inevitably will, even when using ‘rust converters’, the paint you apply will probs hide the corrosion until it’s too late and ready to burst.

Of course! Hopefully less bugs decide to end it on our front bumpers this time 🤣

I’m in! Work your magic again Tom and advertise it on Facebook to get the numbers up. 1) Therealnips 2) Raja93 3) 4)

Really lovely example that, if I had the spare dough I would buy it! Well done on keeping it in that good condition.

Hi Chris, my bodyshop did mine so I messaged him and he responded with the below:- Strip apart. 1. Bare metal 2. Etch prime or epoxy prime. 3. Black or direct satin black 4. For a stronger finish satin or clear Lacquer

I’ve heard of this from another forum member @Aff68, who I believe was going to delete the PTU in his engine build. Aff can fill you in on details. I did a quick google search and saw this harness from Polar Engineering which you use with ‘smart’ coils from either the Audi R8, R35 GTR etc https://www.polarengineering.co/product-page/polar-engineering-vg30-rb25-ignition-chip-ptu-bypass-harness Assume this needs mapping in with your aftermarket ECU.

My Kakimotos are a bit noisy in stop start traffic but my god they sound naughty when you get on the loud pedal and when rev matching and on the overrun 😍. Proper mechanical beastly noises, not like the modern dsg fart boxs on the roads these days. Those fluids are pricey but worth it 💯. Your Z looks super clean btw - get a project thread going with lots of pictures. Interested to see what rest of the car looks like and what you’re doing with it, even if minor bits and bobs 👍🏽

Kakimotos are my favourites 😍. Nice to see the best brand fluids being used - your Z will thank you 👍🏽. Get her back on the road asap whilst this sunny weather lasts! It was glorious last weekend driving everyday in mine.

They really would! And thanks mate 👍🏽❤️. At the mo, the callipers had to be shaved a little as the gap between them and wheels are so so tight! My front end is too low so scrapes arches occasionally (although does look mean as f**k) - would be fine if negative camber reduced, height raised and bigger wheels put on. Rear end the wheels look too small when looking at the side profile. New wheels would sort all these issues out 😃. Something for next year…

Same, makes em look meaty! I like the bottom picture wheel the most. Ideally want to get much wider rears to aid in traction. Although my traction is excellent with Jimmers alignment and Michelin PS4’s, it’d be much less nerve racking when getting on the loud pedal if I had 295’s or so.

Next year or later maybe I want to get new wheels. My JR wheels were bought as a quick fix because I bought the Z with a buckled passenger rear wheel in Feb 2020 (seller did disclose). With lockdown from March 2020, I had to have the Z back on the road for my sanity so ordered my current wheels which came quickly. Unfortunately the quality is crap as the front wheels had started peeling around the nuts within months. I got the fronts replaced free of charge under warranty but it took until December 2020 for them to arrive. By the time they arrived, the rears started peeling. They advised I ceramic coat with Carbon Collective brand coating, which I did two 2 full coats and the proper curing time and prep work. They still peeled after! I also want to step up to 19” (these are 18”). Trouble is they do look great! They’re essentially a replica of the CCW Classics which cost £5-6k!! So that’s out the question! I’ll see what I can find and go from there. Always liked the Works VSXX wheels…

And these on and after collection

And of course pictures for eye candy. The pics with his skyline were before the ceramic coating treatment.