Rebel Scum

ok ok, you know what i mean LOL! just getting across i know my way round an engine.

good job i was only talking in laymans terms then wasnt it ;) As for explaining the principles of internal combustion engines to me...i spent 10 years assembling CV12 Challenger tank, CV8 Warrior, and Eagle 12litre straight six truck engines for Perkins Engines(UK) Ltd and can rebuild Ford 2.0 Pinto and Vauxhall/GM V6 engines in my sleep! :)

how so mate?

????? they look tidy mate, seem worth 150 bucks to me.Question is are you happy with them?, if you are then they worth it :)

atmospheric pressure is actually 14.69 psi.Air enters all n/a engines at atmospheric pressure. on turbo or supercharged engines intake pressure over and above the 14.69psi figure is called boost pressure. :)

I had N500DTM on my DTM Edition Calibra ('N' reg, 500 produced and obviously a DTM) and that cost £250 including the £80 transfer fee, so the majority if plates arent worth a lot, unless someone really wants it.

My advice would be to buy the best one you can afford, with as much history (reciepts, servicimg details etc) as you can, and as medallion man said get someone who nows about cars to look over any potential purchases.avoid the '£500 bargains' on ebay, as tempting as they may be, as there is a fair bit of technology on a zed, but as said most of it is now 16+ years old and whilst there are some great places for spares such as zedworld you cant really nip down your local breakers for bits like you can with say a vectra or whatever. It may be worth posting a pic or the details of the zed you are thinking of buying as someone on the forum may know the car......or perhaps look at buying a members car, as a few for sale on here at the mo, and by looking a topics and threads you may be able to see whats been done to them :)

The black looks great, and will go well as my seats etc are black leather anyway.the spray adhesive was also from dunelm and sticks really well.

Have popped in a led bulb (cheers lee :) ) and its 10 times better.the old 'red' bulb was well past its best as most of the red had actually worn off!, so all sorted now :)

Like the engine bay most,looks very nice.always amazes me how people hide stuff.remember seeing a mk2 astra with a modded 3.0 omega v6 fitted and you couldnt see a single wire in the smoothed bay.

And sound like a swarm of wasps, all blowing kazoos! :)

I know that on vauxhalls after a certain year you need the ecu,matching transponder(fits around the ignition barrel) and the chip thats mounted in the body of the key for the engine to run.iirc if you lose the key(and therefore the chip) a new one has to be reprogramed using Tech2 to match the ecu. I know from experience that early v6 calibra ecus can be swapped as the ecu is non-immobilised,and later ecus support the transponder immobiliser feature. I would say most manurfacturers do this in some way :)

Window slider(pin and roller) 80332-46P00 Cover(white plastic cap that fits on the roller) 80392-30P01 The cover is important as the slider roller will be a loose fit in the guide rail without it.when the new slider is fitted back into the guide rail it is quite a tight fit and you have to use a bit of pressure to got it in, but once it is its a perfect fit and the difference it makes to the car is well worth the effort :)

Got them from my local nissan dealer, roughly £15 for both sides.have got the part numbers if you want them.

Been busy again today and sorted my rattling windows out with new pins and slider rollers.i took the door trim panel off to do the drivers side, as I removed the control box thingy for the electric windows and re-soldered the loosr connection on the circuit board whilst I was at it.also removed the window guide to clean all the accumulated crap out of the groove and lubed it so the window slides easily. The passenger side was easier, I just removed the top seatbelt mount and the top two pieces of trim and unscrewed the window guide pin with a pair of long-nosed pliers,replaced the new guide pin and roller in the same way and put everthing back on.had to put a new nut on the top of the guide as it was missing and obviously not helping the rattle situation!.only took about 10 mins to do passenger side so was well chuffed. So now both windows slider up and down nicely with no rattles and sit nice and tight against the rubber when closed so less wind noise as well, and the drivers side one works when I want it to, for the sake of a bit of solder so happy days! :) Starting to get attached to the old girl now shes coming on ;)

No problem my mate, no problem :)

hello and welcome mate, engine looks very nice

morning matey :) , have got stuff on today but will call down in the week.have a look at my re-covered trim panel thread and see what you think ;)

put the console lid back on this morning and think it looks pretty good even if i do say so myself :) conole top back in pic of my repositioned boost controller, turbotimer, rear foglight switch and alarm gubbins

Cheers for the replies guys, I think i'll try an led bulb and see what its like. :)

Have got one of my reversing lights converted to a rear foglight with a red bulb and the problem is despite fitting a mirror polished reflector into the bulb housing it still looks a bit wishy-washy and not very bright. Has anyone got a red led bulb fitted, and if so are they a lot brighter?????

RIP Jimmy, will be missed by a great many

Panel all working and re-fitted, cheers Phutumsch :) will post some pics once it gets dark and i take some.

been busy today and re-covered one of my rear trim panels and was quite impressed with myself so i did the console lid as well.was only £6.99 for a load of leather-look material and £5.99 for the spray adhesive so not bad at all.will re-cover the other trim panel once i get it out.also fitted my illuminated rear panel, and will post some pics of that once i take some with it lit in the dark :) Rear panel console lid

Ok, cheers for the reply.havent got the eml on or anything, am just wondering as it popped into my head and I thought I would ask the question :)