evilanger

That would be great mate.

Sorry crossfire, definitely wasn't ignoring your post. That is a great offer and would be hugely appreciated by everyone. Thank you.

Not only that, but it's surely a huge incentive for new subscribed members, if their subscription gains them access to difficult to source/ decent quality parts.

Not fair. #sulking

Beat you, I win!!

Standard gauges are a well known problem. They tend to display fine while engine is cold, but then they will show the pressure dropping off as the engine warms. It is fairly common practice to fit an aftermarket one. I take it oil level is fine and no sign of leaks?

Pm me your details, I can send it tomorrow or sat.

I recovered mine with black leather effect vinyl from work. You're welcome to some, if you need it.

^^^^^agreed^^^^^

You can ohm test them, I can't post links from my phone. Try looking in the search or faq sections, under misfire? If I remember right set your meter in ohm mode, measure the two pins of the suspect injector. I think you want about 12 ohms.

I get any o rings from my local agricultural engineer. Plenum ones plus a spare set = £2 (that's with a 50p tip) ;)

Just renewed my subscription for another year, thanks to all for all the help so far.

Slightly worrying ;)

Ok, update..... Well I resoldered every bloody joint on the Speedo as I said before and it is now fully working :woo: Now, as I said before, one of the reasons I wanted it fixed was because my power steering only worked for the first minute or so of driving. The now working speedo didn't cure the power steering issue. So today, following the advice I was given I carried out a hicas diagnostic. I followed the steps in the service manual to enter hicas mode and after far too many attempts and way too much swearing, discovered my own technique!! Basically, instead of carrying out the steps one by one. Shake the steering wheel rapidly, whilst simultaneously stamping on the brake pedal, screaming obscenitys and slight frothing at the mouth. Do this for 10 seconds at least. So after entering diagnostic mode I got a code 4 (power steering solenoid) and noticed that whilst in diagnostic mode, my rear wheels were turning repeatedly left and right. This confused me a little, I will explain shortly. Next I unplugged the steering solenoid and ohm tested it. It was within spec. So I removed the power steering module (behind main ECU), opened it up and resoldered all of that. Approx 1 hour of soldering. Everything back together and it's all working!!!!!!! I cannot explain what a difference it has made to the car, by far the best thing I've fixed so far! I have never had working power steering in the car since I've owned it (2 1/2 years). Back to my confusion. The reason I didn't understand how the hicas was working is because under the car I have two pipes heading from the back of the engine to the rear of the car blocked off. I always presumed that they were part of a hicas delete. I should mention that even though speedo and power steering now work, hicas light does still come on ( I will try diagnostic again tomorrow). This is the nearside "blocked off" pipe. Anyone know what it is? Sorry for the lengthy post and once again thank you for your help so far.

That front pic looks awesome!!! The black under the intercooler adds to it so well. More pics??

Do you know to what I line them up with?

I've read about a steering angle sensor that tells hicas which way the wheels point therefore affecting power steering? On the steering boss I think there is some kind of ring that has to be correctly lined up with something. I haven't looked yet, I will look tomorrow morning. I hoped someone had pics or a better explanation,

Yeah, I resoldered all the joints and (as above :wink:) Speedo worked driving home. Now don't suppose you know about steering alignment sensor?? I've read loads about but can't find step by step how to. I guess I'll figure it out when I look at it or do I have to use consult?

Ok, well drove home from work speedo is working!!!! Thanks everyone :bow: However, not necessarily fixed as the problem was intermittant. Time will tell....... Interesting though power steering only seems to work up to third gear (auto) ? Does this point to anything in particular? I swapped steering wheels a while back and at the time did not know about aligning it. Can someone post a link or explain what I need to do to check it's correct. Thanks

I'll just redo every joint, I think.

Just out of curiosity, the three filled holes around c19 have nothing on the other side. Do they need to be filled to work?

Ahhh ok thanks, I never did the other of the board, will check that now.

Now googling jewelers loupe, Santa :confused:

Cheers groover, to be honest I knew that was there. Saw it a while back and forgot about it. Si, I know your views on the timers from other threads ;) and agree mostly. However, I only work 5 miles from work and the cars not warm till about 3 miles in. So if I'm late (happens more often than it should) and I give it a blast for the last couple of miles, surely 3 min cooling is better than none. Of course gentle last miles are better than anything else. :) The Speedo problem was there before I fitted the timer and fitting didn't affect it. My point is that if the signal goes. Sensor>cluster>ecu. How come the timer gets the pulse signal but the cluster doesn't? I'll take the cluster to bits now and recheck the pub. Failing that try another gauge. Anyone in Norfolk got a spare I can borrow? :winkywink: