evilanger

Yeah, I've read up at much as I can. Sounds like removing the auto pilot bushing can be a bit of a pain as well.

I'm doing it on some homemade stands I made, don't worry though over engineered them. They hold the car at least 20" off the ground.

I plan on following the guide in the faq section, if you've any extra tips to help, I'd be grateful. Sorry if I'm hijacking the thread, sayers. :(

Cheers, manual conversion taking place in two weeks. Only driven auto zeds, so it better be worth it ;)

This nay be a stupid question, how do you test them?

Well done mate!! Really good, I'd try pretty much anything myself, mainly coz I'm tight. But I don't think think I'd have the balls to attempt this. You should be proud of yourself.

That's why I wanted to know, I need a full set of caps. But I think my wheels are slightly different.

Hi Torrent, Welcome to the club mate. The best place I have found for any advice you'd need. However, you may be able to help me first....;) Can you tell me if there's any writing stamped on the wheels around the studs please? Cheers

Brickyard red, the best of those photos imo

Ok, cheers for trying

Hmmm, the caps on the link look like they'd only cover the hub nut hole, the original ones would have covered the wheel nuts as well.

They are a split rim, two piece, from what I can see.

Here's the writing, can't see any in the inside rim. I've been searching, but can't find a lot.

I'll go down the garage in a short while and have a read, I can make out "made in Japan" from the photo.

Stamped on the inside? The reason I'd like to know is to see if I can get centre caps.

Hopefully someone knows what these are, Thanks.

I didn't realise the picture was so poor, doesn't look at blurred on my phone. I'll post a pic tomorrow.

Does anyone know what wheels these are? I will post a better pic tomorrow, just thought I'd test you properly ;)

First thing to do is the auto ecu diagnostics. https://z32.wikispaces.com/Automatic+Transmission+Diagnostics

Thats what I thought. Although not 100%, just because I think I had a faulty maf years ago but it didn't throw a code up.

No, I've not explained very well, the car revs freely till redline, but if you try and hold the revs at about 2500, it won't. The revs rise and fall between 1000 and 2500. Maybe boost leak? Maf would give a code or limp mode, wouldn't it?

Yep, I've done some searching and i think it might be the dipstick tube or maybe the wiring that goes up to the engine bay Haven't had time to go and check, will try and check Friday

Anyone have a manual conversion, before I try and sort my s##t auto box out??

Okay, so I checked for continuity between main ecu and auto ecu and that seemed fine. Swapped the auto ecu with a known good one, initially the power light did not give the 16 warning flashes on ignition. So big grins and took for a test drive. Still only first, second and reverse. Also when I got back, I did another transmission diagnostic and again getting code three (throttle sensor circuit shorted or unplugged). Pulling my hair out now. Main ecu shows code 55, idles ok. But at about 2500 revs, if you try to hold it there, even in neutral the revs constantly pulse between 1000 and 2500?? Anyway, when it got dark I decided to remove the transmission from my other car. Of the top two difficult bolts to remove, I removed the passenger side one, but the drivers side one isn't there I don't think. I can feel the hole where it should be, unless it bolts from the engine side?? I can't seem to separate the box from the engine. Any ideas or pics of the bolt locations? Thanks

Thanks