redwine300

Cheers Gary. :thumbup1: Me too.

Hi Dougal200 Thanks for the advice, I was beginning to give up on any help being forthcoming. I will sort out a boost leak test shortly. I do have the original recircs fitted, they have covered over 133,000 miles. As for Consult, I do have DataScan, would that help me? If so, what would I be looking for? Thanks mate.

Can't help but notice that some very eminent members have taken the time to view my post. Any ideas guys?

Being a bit of a gauge watcher, I have always marveled at just how quick my boost gauge would show positive boost. In fact, it used to be quite difficult to drive her and be below "0" under most conditions. Up until lately she would pull vacuum on over run of -13/14psi and hit +14psi with no trouble at all giving a real smooth and yet powerful response. Of late however, the gauge and performance of the car has suddenly changed. I first noticed that in first and second gear under mild acceleration up to around 4000-5000 rpm, the boost gauge hits the -7psi and starts to bounce, it's only if I hit the accelerator hard to the floor does she get to +14psi but not for long. The power delivery has also changed, where as initially she would give a gradual yet powerful pull from low down the rpm range through to 6500 rpm, She now gives a pronounced kick later on around the 4000-5000 rpm. Quite noticeable I might add. Strange thing is though, if I am dawdling in 3rd/4th and put my foot down moderately, i do get positive to max boost virtually straight away, albeit feeling under powered. I would appreciate any thoughts as to what you guys feel the issue/issues might be. I would add though, other than this, the car runs like a sewing machine, idles, starts every time etc'

Nice link Stephen. I am currently having major loss of boost myself, so hopefully this may help me understand how everything works.

Welcome mate.

Happy Birthday Baz. :happybday:

I'm surprised he let you off with this one Si If you "Know" what I mean. :lol::lol:

Ditto! Very nice Baz.

Hi Mate, Hopefully this may help.

If you want to see what could possibly lurk beneath, this is how I found mine. Hopefully it will inspire as opposed to discourage. If you read through, you will see how I tackled my rear arches. http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/thanks-everyone.15465/

The company name where I sent my reflectors escapes me, but I do recall having several issues with their quality control. With this in mind, I would prefer not to recommend them. I do recall paying a little over £250 for both lights if memory serves me right. I'm sure a Google search would throw up someone closer. If I get chance, I will have a look today. If you contemplate cleaning up the original reflectors, goes real easy as they mark up very easily. Don't use anything that is abrasive as the chrome effect will be removed. I would suggest soap and water and a very soft cloth. Hopes this helps.

I did a full refurb on mine not so long back, I found the same thing. Both reflectors are a type of plastic, I had mine Vacuum Metalized so as to bring them back. Here is my link link.. http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?174282-Passenger-Headlight-removal!!-Arrrrggghh&highlight=hand+headlight Hope it helps.

Nice one! Enjoy.

As above, looks great. You may find that as the temperature creeps up a tad more that the AAC may just drop 1 or 2 points. What version of Data Scan are you using by the way? I like the lay out.

Sounds promising Russ. Good luck with the re fit and hopefully you will have a working auto box.

I take your point, but I have to disagree. Yes, the inner workings do not come into contact with the oil itself, but the mechanism responding to the line pressure does. This movement then becomes restricted by contamination, hence why I recommended what I did. Maybe a coincidence I guess, but it solved my problem without any other intervention. As I said, my gauge now responds as if new.

My stock pressure gauge was temperamental for several years, but is now fine. They are known to become erratic due to contamination due to irregular oil changes. I resurrected mine by way of 2 lots of lifter treatment and several static oil changes (ie not driven, just warmed up) with a low cost oil, followed by the recommended quality oil. It has been fine ever since. It responds in line with the manual over all conditions now. Very relieved to say the least, I am a bit of a gauge watcher I'm afraid.

Ditto,

Welcome to the forum. I too had a similar introduction to the dreaded tin worm, the links attached may hopefully give you some optimism. http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/thanks-everyone.15465/ http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?175949-Replacment-arch-and-sill-panels Good luck, it'll be worth it in the end.

Fingers crossed for you Russ. :clover::clover:

As Si said, definitely an MOT failure. This link may be of help. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NISSAN-300ZX-Z32-FAIRLADY-TWIN-TURBO-VG30DETT-OEM-BATTERY-CLAMP-/201383544360?hash=item2ee3650628

Has the car been lowered do you know? Or is everything stock?

Are you using OEM parts? I have read that pattern parts have been known to separate at the gear box end as apposed to snapping. Something to do with possibly being a tad shorter.

Welcome to the club. The journey begins!