redwine300

Well I never. :thumbup1::thumbup1:

As above, welcome. First couple of questions, does the issue still exist when the motor is fully warmed up? Or only when cold?

Sounds like the problem is with your ECU temperature reading, hopefully just a matter of making good the Yellow connector connection. As a secondary concern, you will still need to ensure that your viscous fan is working correctly however. When the engine is initially fired up from cold, it is so that the fan blades can indeed be stopped be a well gloved hand. However, once the engine is up to full opperating temperature and the car is at a standstill, after about 30 seconds or so, depending on ambient, the fan will noticeably engage. Please do not try to stop its rotation at this point, however, once the car exceeds 30-35 mph, the fan should disengage and simply rotate under slight drag. The reason for this is down to the fact that the incoming air is sufficient to cool the radiator and thus relieving the fan of its duty. What will happen is the incoming air will rotate a thermal spring at the centre of the viscous coupling resulting in the closure of an internal valve, this will allow the fan to freewheel, saving horsepower. Hopefully, if the viscous fan is working correctly, you will notice a diffence in roar depending on conditions as described as above.

https://z32.wikispaces.com/Coolant+Temp+Sensor Have a look at this link, the yellow connector needs to be checked thoroughly for good connections.

Because you say you can clearly hear it from inside the car, I would lean towards the problem being the electric fan myself. Does the frequency change if you rev the engine? Granted, you can hear the difference between an engaged viscous fan and a disengaged one, especially with increased RPM. Does the fan sound more like a hair dryer for instance? (constant) as opposed to a roaring sound that varies with engine speed? Have you checked the connectors for good clean contact yet? Also there is a simple test for the sender by way of its resistance.

Thanks for the feed back everyone, it's good to understand how thing works and how they affect the running of the Zed. To be honest, my question was prompted by my journey home from work the other afternoon having cleaned the connector. In brief, I did let her have her head once in second gear and the rear wheels lit up! Something that has never happened before. Surprised me really. Weather wise, warm, dry and sunny. Tyres, up to pressure and Good tread. Road surface, dry and grippy. Just coincidence I guess.

Nice work there Gary. :thumbup1:

As above really, just curious as to the main function/functions of the PTU. Is its main and only function the distribution of the power to the individual coil pack? or does it influence more than just this? Just asking, as I have recently discovered the bottom connection quite corroded, and have since cleaned all male and female connectors and re fitted. Could I anticipate any subtle difference in performance or daily driving etc for example?

Just backing you up bud.

Agreed, I think NA's have a different compression ration, so may not be suitable for turbo charging.

Cheers Steve, It did test my resolve at times.

:happybday:

:drool::drool::drool:

Started my winter prep' by cleaning and re greasing all the connectors under the bonnet. Firstly the PTU, which hadn't be done for some time, good job really as the lower connector that is difficult to get to, was quite corroded. I will work my way through them all over the next couple of weeks. Preventative maintenance, you can't beat it.

I went with single tacks on all panels, started with the initial ones to position the panel, then I tacked every inch or so, so as to firmly fix. After that, I filled the gaps bit by bit moving from gap to gap as I went so as to avoid staying in one area. The key is patience, any build up of heat needs to be avoided at all costs, otherwise the panel will distort I'm afraid.

Bit of a read, but may be of help. http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/thanks-everyone.15465/

Bah Humbug. :lol:

Maybe worth opening the base idle screw a little, bit by bit. As you say, may be playing up.

Very interested in how all this all comes together Simon. Out of interest, where does head porting sit within the enhancement of intake improvements? and exhaust come to think of it. Or is that kind of modification old hat now?

:happybday:

:thumbup: Dan.

I didn't think it mattered about the cats, as the 300zx does not appear on the VOSA database. Therefore it should be tested on a lesser stringent emissions test at idle. 3.5% Co2 Having said that, I guess the testing criteria is changing all the time, I may be out of date.

This link may be worth a look. http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?175949-Replacment-arch-and-sill-panels

Getting closer!

Thanks Alic. :thumbup1: I'll do some searching.