lonezedder

If you've bought it for the purpose of being primarily a track toy then I'd say good choice. :thumbup1: The slicktop is the most focused chassis, being tighter than the TT versions. As for the NA engines being good for tracks then again yes, good choice. Although they haven't got ultimate power, the linear and much smoother power delivery will be great for the track, especially when applying power mid bend etc. where the turbo engine surge in torque can upset the car and cause spins, the NA engine will be more manageable and predictable. I'd say the NA engine will also suffer less from the big heat generated by hard track work for a more consistent & reliable performance. NA comes with a lower ratio rear diff which helps with acceleration at lower speeds, the difference with the turbo car being greater at high speeds and on the track a part from the long straights will be more useful. Power upgrades, standard stuff - exhaust, air intake, remap (less gains than turbo car). Loss more weight by stripping out AC etc. After that will get expensive - changing CAMS etc and ultimately you'd be lucky to reach the stock output of a turbo version. Failing that, some have managed V8 transplants, some swap the turbo engine in (not as easy as you'd think). I'd say great choice as long as ultimate power is not required.

I'm currently running mine without the O2 sensors connected and it seems happy enough in general. Fuel consumption isn't noticeably up. Why are you disconnected? I unplugged mine because when connected the car runs badly especially during the warm up, behaves like its misfiring, but couldn't isolate to a single cylinder. Unplugged them and now it runs fine. I used DataScan which confirmed the driver side sensor to have gone bad, the output being stationary whilst the other side sweeps correctly. Need to get round to replacing them both really for optimum running, but can't see them coming out without a big fight!

Guess part of it is down to how 'wealthy' you are! For me in my current position it would be silly because there are better ways to spend that amount of money. Lets face it, some will spend far more on a set of wheels, hell even for the tyres and they are a consumable. If I were far flusher then I would buy these, some people like the whole genuine thing, I must admit to generally being one of them. Also being brand new you get that factory assembled quality that can't be replicated no matter how good you are on the kitchen worktop!

Courtesy of Yowser :thumbup1:

To add, the UK bar is apparently 27mm thick, JSPEC 21mm. The whiteline upgrade is 22mm thick, but stated as solid, so surely wouldn't be an upgrade if the UK bar was also solid?

If you did a straight car advertisement at the cost of £14.99, then there is no extra to pay. Assuming you've already paid, your all done. If not you'll get an statement later and it is automatically taken from your PayPal on a given date.

The UK spec bar is indeed the thickest OEM bar, the NA J-Spec having the smallest diameter. I always thought they were hollow to. ETA: According to the likes of CPZ etc. who sell uprated bars, the stock ones are hollow.

I would imagine that if all else fails and you can't successfully measure them, then if you have an early NA car you could just buy the 26mm discs and they'd be fine. Even if it turned out that the originals were 30mm, the pistons would compensate for the difference by protruding a little further, after all it would only equate to 2mm/side.

I don't think the car will mind too much! :tt2: Sorry!

No, not that one. Its an Irish imported car, with very low miles. States only 2 owners, but its actually 5, not that it makes a big difference, but the advert is trying to suggest that it has been owned by the Chairman of Nissan for most of its life which it certainly hasn't! I went to view and drive this car when it was for sale a few months ago and it was in a poor state which surely it wouldn't be if the above was true. Anyway I informed him of his error, he acknowledged the mistake and said he would correct the ad - he hasn't.

Keep us posted mate, I've got a rattle between 1500-2k revs under load in any gear, but if I take it easy with the throttle it can be avoided. Can't say I've heard it on the over-run though. I'm confident its not a heat shield or exhaust related, but thought it might be gearbox related.

Each to their own and all that, but I wouldn't email a seller about an items price other than to make a polite offer if I was interested. I would however and have just recently emailed a seller if it is being deliberately mis-advertised like a certain black UK spec car on Ebay at the moment.

Ouch!

^^^Yes. Buy a series 1 UK cluster, plug in, done! No cheap nasty convertor required. Its also the correct way to get the steering weight correct, because with a convertor chip fitted to a JSPEC cluster the ECU controlling the steering weight is being feed incorrect information!

Personally I would hunt down a UK spec cluster, job done....

Sounds like you need to borrow a good PTU to eliminate that. Its unlikely to be that I though, but its not unheard of for a later gen PTU to fail. Otherwise as already said, check the main ECU connector, failing that swap for another to eliminate, but TBH sounds more like a loom issue if this wasn't replaced along with the engine swap. Good luck...

Wish I was as knowledgeable about other things in life! :lol:

Further more, the front pads are the same across all versions, regardless of the thickness difference. Apparently, 1991+versions of the NA have the same front discs as the TT, its just the 89-90 cars with the 26mm discs, so if yours is definitely a 93 just order the TT discs.

Correction, both NA and TT front discs are a 280mm diameter, all TT discs are 30mm thick, as are later NA's, its only the earlier NA's that have a thickness of 26mm. The rear discs are bigger at a 297mm diameter, but only 18mm thick and are the same for all 300zx versions. :thumbup1:

Is the Aero8 made of wood too? :lol:

Very very nice indeed!

Must admit I'd seen the advert and raised an eyebrow. The advert did make me laugh though. "This is a relatively standard and clean example" "HKS fully adjustable coilovers. HKS boost controller. APEXI engine remap. Front and rear strut braces. Standard seat belts and also a 4-point harness installed on the driver's side" "With a car this age and this non-standard, no one should buy until they have had a look at the car" :biggrin: Good luck to the guy, but it will be for sale a long while at that price, it is however nice to see some people trying to push the prices up now.

No reply so far. I'm not expecting one TBH. Mileage wise it was hard to tell. All the Irish paperwork seemed correct and the mileage was verified with this, that said it is so easy to clock these cars, or just disconnect the odometer section between tests - who knows! Why spend loads of money on paint, wheels, double din stereos etc. then sell up a couple of months later? The state of the engine bay at the time certainly looked more 237k than 37k, but other things seemed like it could have been just 37k. The bodywork was really unloved though which would suggest the rest will have been too...

Finally fitted my new chrome door handles and electric window switches including that tiny bit of fabric stuff that sits in the handle recess! That completes the interior restoration, loads of brand new bits and bobs! Also handy having a SWB breaker to butcher. Still masses to do else where, but generally making good progress:)

This is an option, after all this is exactly what happens to 1000's of newish cars that get pranged then repaired under insurance if the finance tallies up. My wife's Fiesta a few years ago was in a good front end smash, the chassis was straightened on a jig and repaired to an excellent standard.