lonezedder

The darker grey Z above is the same colour as mine, in some lights in can look like its got a tinge of purple in it!

My SWB TT is in factory gun metal grey, looks really nice and gets a lot of nice comments on the colour. I never thought a 'grey' car would look that nice, but it suits the Z well.

That's because its a better bumper!:D

^^^ isn't that strange since the uk spec car only ran to 1994. Any idea if they still stock the original spec front bumper and how much?

Yes side feed injectors are the standard. Where it gets a little interesting is if you want to upgrade to the later style injectors. IMO, I'd probably opt for new upgraded 'early' style injectors, otherwise you'll need adaptor kits to make the later ones fit the early fuel rail and also spice new injector connectors to fit new style connections. Old style are 89-94, new style above that. They was a reason Nissan changed the spec, but at this stage in the cars life, at ~20 years old, its obviously not a problem. Would seem you need to be careful though as some of these new 'early' style injectors come with new 'later' style connections so you still have to play with the loom... https://conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=682 Seems the simple solution is the purple top Nismo 555's, they are the 'early' type and should be plug n play, but look at the price! I'd always ask plenty of questions before ordering any particular injectors though.

Got to laugh! What a joke.

^^^ What about the ride quality?

^^^Yeh, can imagine that took an hour or two! Very nice. As for the OP's 1st pic, when I went Z viewing this was a common site, I even specifically asked the sellers over the phone about rust in this area, they all lie, let you drive half way across the country to find out. As soon as I saw stuff like this the car was disregarded and the hunt continued.

So you directly wired the head unit to the speakers to eliminate any loom issues and the sound level is still the same with both head units. Very much suggests the speakers are shot to me.

I think many on here will agree that Nissan got the styling just right on the 1st attempt and many, myself included think the 89 spec front bumper is a better look. Just because Nissan gave the car a face lift, doesn't mean its a better look. I'm sure many manufacturers have made face lifts over the years and many have been questionable. They have to do things like this to refresh the buying publics interest in an aging model, but again it doesn't make them better, just different. I do like the 99 spec look, but simply prefer the original. - - - Updated - - - +1:)

Yes. IIRC, JECS are the OEM supplier of the stock injectors. I would opt for 555's, plenty of scope. Check out the selection here... https://conceptzperformance.com/Cart/items.php?Car_Type=300&CA=30

I'd go with Veilside's suggestion, sounds very feasible since you've bottomed out. Its possible you've damage a hose, pipe or even an intercooler. The resultant boost/vacuum leak will make the car run like crap.

^^^ Wash your mouth out fella! Can't you see I've put my life at risk trying to help you!:biggrin: TBH, they're not as bad or complicated as they first seem. The engine bay does look daunting, but its basic 90's electronics at the end of the day. Generally very reliable, sophisticated enough, but not too much.:)

:surrender: I'm sure you're right, was just trying to provide another possibility to help a fellow Zedder.:hammer:

Here you go.... http://z32.wikispaces.com/ECU+Diagnostics If the PTU has been upgraded to the later series 2 version, then its less likely to be that, but I have heard that they can and have still failed.

Could this not just be a simple case of a failing PTU, the fact the car has now been stood for a while, cooled down & now restarts makes it a possibility? When my PTU was failing, it would start from cold, run perfectly for a good few miles, then misfire and cut out, refusing to start until it had cooled off. I borrowed a good PTU, waited until it broke down again, swapped it at the roadside and immediately it restarted. Swapped it straight back and it wouldn't start - conclusive result. Spinning the air con pulley and the restart is purely a coincidence, the belt has probably been removed because the air con compressor may have gone bad, or for a tiny performance gain. I'm sure a failing PTU sometimes throws a EML, so worth looking in to. ETA: It does, code 21. As for injectors, coil packs and other sensors other than the CAS, the engine will start and run with a duff injector, coil pack etc all be it rough and down on power.

Looks nice enough, been for sale for a long time now though. Was available when I was looking back in April/May.

Its not always about if you can lift something, but if you should! An 80kg autobox, if lifted incorrectly can easily injure you! Its a real awkward shape and size and if your under the car and something goes wrong, you'll be in trouble if it lands on your face!:eek: If you can get some help, take it.:)

^^^ yes they are, I find the flashing ones quite distracting as well.

The extractor fan can be provided with its own 3 amp fused spur supply for PL and N, with only the SL taken from the lighting circuit to turn it on and off with the lights. Generally most extractors have an adjustable timer on them, they can be set for much lower than 20minutes, IIRC mine can run for as little as 1, got it set to around 5.

I have to say that although I like all the cars posted up, I'm pretty confident that they'll all drive like crap compared to a Zed! What is it they say, you should never meet your hero? I'm still amazed how modern the Zed feels to drive even though its 25YO. Those Yank tanks will drive like, well a tank I'd guess. I've always fancied a C3 Stringray, but have managed to resisted the urge! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1978-CORVETTE-STINGRAY-LIMITED-EDITION-INDY-PACE-CAR-5-7-/321546081815?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item4adda3d617 They are available much cheaper than this mind.

Are you sure the noise goes away on a wet road, or is it possible the rattle can't be heard over the water spray, because I tend to find my cars have all seemed quieter in the rain or on very wet roads, but its probably just the water spray cancelling out other noises as it were. To test this, on a nice dry day drench the rear suspension with the hose pipe and then take it for a drive, the roads will be dry and will test this theory. If the noise disappears then it sounds like a bush type problem as the water quietens them down, but personally my 1st thoughts were the shocks, sounds like they've got some play, but under power/load the play is taken up with the weight transfer and the noise disappears. Otherwise have a good look at the springs, I've known people drive around with a broken spring complaining of creaks and rattles. Probably talking *****cks though!

^^^ My car isn't running a standard ECU, but some historic tuner ECU, who knows how its set up?, but during warm up it runs rough with them connected. DataScan shows one is dead, can't remember which, but disconnected there is no problem.

I could be way off the mark here, but since its so easy to eliminate then I might as well suggest it. Try disconnecting you O2 sensors, this will make the car use a fixed ECU value, a little rich, but perfectly useable. My car has a faulty O2 sensor which was far more pronounced when cold. It misfired, lumpy and down on power. I disconnected both of the sensors and its been fine ever since. I've since used DataScan which confirmed one of the sensors was lazy/dead, must get round to replacing them!

The interior is a very different place to the Zed, but IMO felt better made. Its the stereo that looks out of place in that picture. Prefer the Zed interior though, I think it has aged better. The GTO is a big (by 90's standards) car though, when my Zed was parked next to my pals GTO, it almost looked a little dainty! The GTO looks like its on roids by comparison!