lonezedder

There is probably nothing wrong with the electrical supply to your dipped beam. The reason the main beam seems much better is because they are not of the projector type, the dipped ones are. Look at the light units properly, you will see the main bulb beams straight through the outer glass, where as the dipped must beam through a projector lens first then thru the outer glass. A lot of the dipped bulbs brightness is dulled by this extra lens. As others have said, the inside of this projector lens can get dirty which makes matters worse and its not that easy to clean. It has been said for many years that the Zeds dipped beam is rubbish, yours won't be any different, don't look for a problem that is not there. My main beam is far, far, far superior to the dipped beam as well, but I'm confident there is no electrical issue. To convince yourself, pull the bulb out of the unit and switch it on it and see if it looks like 55watts of brightness!

As title, what are these and where do they go? My Z doesn't currently have any arch liners, looking to refit shortly and wonder if these are part of that arrangement? Thanks.... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NISSAN-300ZX-Z32-RUBBER-WING-SEALS-/190851632555?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2c6fa4cdab

My post not good enough?:biggrin: "Bosch Oxygen Sensors are the original Oxygen sensor that Nissan used in the 90-96 300ZX. Full 1 year warranty, Direct Fit. Please note that while the Nissan-branded versions are functionally the same, they have different part numbers for Left and Right. The only difference is the location of the plastic clips on the harness, and they can be adjusted to fit for either side. These sensors will fit all Z32s, 90-96, NA or TT, for left or right sides." Courtesy of CPZ.

O2 sensors are indeed Bosch. https://conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=4241 I've just bought a pair of these from here.

One of many... http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?149936-What-hicas-can-be-removed&highlight=hicas+bypass

Not a stupid question at all! Most people keep their current pump, some fit the NA PAS pump if really going to town and pulling out all the HICAS piping etc. Once you've fitted the lockout kit at the rear, its possible to link out the HICAS piping at the HICAS solenoid/PAS pot. There's multiple threads about somewhere.

Just as well because there aren't any!:x::tt2: Ok. Maybe there are a small few.:thumbup:

As above, a picture would be useful. Are you talking about the 4 fat pipes that look front to back, 2 of which connect to the throttle bodies? Otherwise they might be part of a boost controller arrangement - not standard fitment.

There are some extremely noisy high end cars that wear the 'M' badge or the 'AMG' badge of late, especially the V8 powered variants. Don't get me wrong, they (mostly) sound amazing, but the fact is that the owners have no more or less a right to make such loud noises as the bean tin Corsa brigade. The fact the noise is a better one isn't relevant, nor is the quality or price tag of the vehicle in question. Some would argue that the Corsa bean tin is completely unnecessary, at the end of the day a car is a tool A to B nothing more and all that, but in that regard so is a Ferrari, completely unnecessary for the UK roads where speed limit is 70mph. We buy these things because we want to, its our right, they make us smile. Old farts get over it!

Both of my turbo Zeds have had smell I suppose you could describe as hot metal, although I notice this when putting the car away in the garage after a good run. When on boost, there is a massive amount of heat generated from those tubs and the engine bay is so cramped so things get really hot. So, in answer to your question, I believe it is normal, but I only do ~3000 miles a year, if you do much more you're likely to notice it more. You've had your car 16 months, I'm guessing its running well so don't worry about it and enjoy. Its the least of my cars problems anyway.

They're not brand new, they are listed as remanufactured/reconditioned. This is a more likely price for the real deal... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NISMO-555CC-SKYLINE-SILVIA-300ZX-RB25-SR20-RB20-VG30-FUEL-INJECTORS-X-6-/200579697439?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2eb37b4b1f

My '89' spec is the same as yours Gary, I bet it was done like this to help keep the balance of the car being shorter, but I also bet it cost more at the factory so later in life it was moved back to the engine bay like all LWB versions as part of the cost cutting measures that Nissan implemented later in the cars life. Does this SWB also have manual climate controls?

Looked worth it, proof is in the pudding though, a decent viewing is required to fully sus it out. I drove up and down the country looking at several Z cars that looked excellent on the computer screen, but in the flesh not so.

^^^ What do you know? You've just bought a SWB t-top haven't you?

Its gone! Has anyone on here made him a good offer and snapped it up?:cursing:

Styling wise, again very little difference across production. Difference between series 1 and 2 to series 3 up is simply the rear spoiler, some call the horse shoe. The biggest difference comes at the end with the 99 spec series which has a different rear spoiler again and a new front bumper. The 99 spec also featured clear rear tail lights that many have upgraded to. There were some minor differences inside too, but nothing worth writing home about, though the 99 spec had some nice little touches. Round tail lights are only an after market option.

:rofl:

It was reckoned to reduce top end power by about 20bhp, not sure on the fuel consumption, but doubt it would be significant. I wouldn't let it put you off a 97 car though, nice to have a later car, but they aren't any better than the earlier ones though, buy the best you find - simples! That may be a late car, but it could just as easily be an early one. Age and mileage is of little consequence with these cars because they are ALL old enough for it to make no difference, how they have been looked after and maintained is a much bigger factor.

Neither did my Astra VXR or Mazda MPS. The turbo diesels I have recently driven don't have them as well. Nice to have though.

There is nothing crap about the standard boost gauge either. It was never intended to read boost for a modified engine, didn't need to be decimal point accurate, just indicate a rough level of boost or vacuum... I like my crap gauge thanks:D

As the others have said, Nissan dropped the boost gauge as part of a cost cutting program. There were other minor things as well such as thinner carpets, making the climate control an optional extra instead of standard, the same with cruise control and electric seats. They also dropped the variable valve timing as well.

Don't know, but it looks like a good-un! If I was Zedless I'd be having a good look at this and would be prepared to bid well if all is as it seems.

^^^ Could be on to something and in the same ball park I believe that this part can fail and cause gear selection problems.... https://conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=1877

Only real significant mechanical difference is that the UK/Euro spec cars are all only Long Wheel Base (2+2 seating) and twin turbo engines in either auto or manual. The JDM imports cover all bases including the above spec plus LWB non turbo auto/manual, Short Wheel Base (2 seats only) in twin turbo/non turbo auto/manual/Solid top/T-top. The SWB car is the only true solid top option, known as a Slicky/Slicktop. All LWB cars are T-top. Then there is a true convertible option, again only in SWB 2 seat format. This car is only non turbo. The SWB cars are a few inches shorter, a little lighter, tighter and a tad faster, especially the slicktop. Obviously the convertible which is the heaviest 300zx due to extra strengthening and is still the 'wobbliest' is the least performance orientated version, but probably the best posing car on a lovely summers day! I don't think anything here will cause registration/NCT problems, there are quite a few Irish members on here with JDM cars, I don't recall hearing about any issues. Security is standard poor! Get a decent installer to fit a good quality cat 1 alarm/immobiliser. This will also upgrade the standard key central locking to remote locking. Nissan dealers are generally useless when it comes to significant service and repair - don't go there!! Supply of parts they can be useful, but there is little need because the traders on this Forum are very clued up and generally cheaper. MJP/Zedworld for OEM parts. Otherwise the 'Zcentre' is very good, then many here have used the US to supply parts. Z1, CPZ to name a couple are my favourites. Under sealing is always a great idea, as is the cam belt and other associated components - water pump, pulleys etc. Your budget is awesome! To be fair I doubt you'll find one with a price tag that high. You can buy mine for £10k! Personally 4-6k will import you a really tidy one, then I'd use the rest of the budget to make it yours as required, whether that is a vulgar body kit or renewing various bits of worn OEM trim, suspension etc. Trust me, there will always be something to do, even to the best example for sale, so don't spend much more than 4-6k. The exceptions would be one or two examples on this Forum, problem is those cars will never be sold as the investment levels are just so high! See example Funkysi / JoelyP

Nips to the garage to check....KH2 6?? according to the data badge.