dicky96

Oh also to add - during construction, one transistor and one IC chip 'cease to perform within the manufacturers tolerance'... which is the best way I can think to say I 'blew them up!!' :w00t:

S Club 7!!!! omg what have I done??? Just to be clear there will only ever be one of these boards. Mostly I 'invented it in real-time mode' which basically means I 'made it up as a went along' so there are no circuit diagrams other than a few scribblings of the basic design and a rough block diagram of the various functions Also it takes way too long to build one of these unless you were to design a custom PCB which would also take a way too long It started off really as going to be green LED backlit with Red Brakelight repeater - but then I used some LED strips and I only had RGB ones... so it seemed a shame to use only the green so I added the cuircuitry to use a rotary switch to select each of seven colours, plus brightness control and the circuit to override the switch setting and set the LED strip to full brightness red plus some high power LEDs to boost the red light level as well when you hit the brakes. Problem was I needed 8 switch settings (seven colours plus 'off') and I could only get a 12 way switch... so it seems a shame to have four more unused positions on the switch. So I added an 8th mode where by you could preset the brightness of Red Green and Blue, and create your own custom colour. That was the 9th switch position Then I thought hmm this would look good going in time with music so I added the 10th switch position - sound to light But I still had 2 positions on the switch, and I had run out of Veroboard space, so I built the piggyback board with two more sound to light options - onle pulses the colours per beat (dark to light depending on the strength of the beat) and the other steps the colours once per beat I'll now sandwich the boards between two pieces of perspex and drill holes for access to the adjustments. They alter for sensitivity, beat detections, brightness etc. I also need to build the fog/reverse lights (I''ve already done then for one side but not fitted them for the demo video) The whole panel is controlled by one 12 way rotary switch and one push button switch Connections will be very simple power (from sidelights) chassis (ground) brake light +ve fog light +ve reverse light +ve phono lead from stereo I was going to build a second one for myself.... and I will.... but it won't be like this one. Rather than purely analog circuitry I'm going to have a play around with building a microprocessor controlled panel and see what I can do with that instread. Rich

Lol yeah it looks good - the sound to light is meant for show car TBH, and for incurable car illumination addicts lol The hardest part of this was to get a proper even light on the rear panel, without hot spots or shadow areas and with no leds actually showing I also Noticed 1. The sound is a lot more in sync on the upladed video than the one of my phone and 2. Well spotted I incriminated myself nicely on the brief pc screenshot where I had been wandering around adult sites looking at the pictures lol You know how it is though...... When you've seen one woman naked, you want to see them all! :tongue_smilie:

Designed and build by myself for Andy (phutumsch) 300zx rear light panel sound to light controller with brake repeater This has various modes: Manual colour select. Blue Red Magenta Green Cyan Yellow White plus one custom programmable colour True sound to light (red = bass, green = mid, blue = treble) - this is my personal favourite Pulse mode - pulses from darkest colour (blue) through to lightest colour (white) on bass beats in this order : blue red magenta green cyan yellow white Step mode - steps colours in sequence on each bass beat, or you can auto step without music and set speed from mega fast to about one step every two seconds. Steps in same sequence as above Also has an overide mode for Brake reapeater (when you hit the brakes you get super bright red regardless of what it was doing before and after) All are demonstrated in this short video I've tried to video this a few times but the sound and light always go out of sync- don't know why but here you go this is the best I can show it - but in reality it keeps *perfect* time to the music :-) The video will take about 30 more mins to upload (as of now 11:35pm) so I'm off to hit the sheets..... but it's something for you insomniacs to wait for lol Andy you will have it by the end of the week ready to fit - can't wait to see it in action - enjoy!!! Rich

got mine back :)

Totally off topic but jut a note on this - you can do pretty much anything you want to under the consumer credit act and we have been victims of that Long story told short but: We used to own a computer business building and selling PCs through our own shop in the mid 90s to about 2002 when we changed direction to our current business We sold a lad a computer motherboard with 12 month warranty (on credit card) After about 20 months the motherboard went faulty The lads father was a bit of a no it all and requested a full refund on the basis a motherboard should last longer than 20 months regardless of our warranty terms As the customer said they fitted the motherboard at home, (and in the accompanying documentation it said it was to be fitted by qualified persons only in an electrostatic safe environment) we refuesed and said see you in court The know it all then brought a claim against us in court and we said no problem we will present our case However he named the credit card company as a joint defendant and they paid him out (and debited our bank account) without even letting us defend the case We then took the credit card company to court and they cancelled our account so we could no longer take card payments (even though they paid us our money back on the motherboard before it went to court) We are still in business 18 years later but for all those years since, we refuse to take credit card payments It's a crazy world isn't it

Had the same problem here (not drill: hammer time lol) Ended up replacing the windows and also the hardened door rubbers that were the cause of the problem The (new) bits of rubber cost more than the (second hand) windows go figure! Rich

As mentioned before I have a friend thinking of buying a Z as a second car and to do up as a show car Anyway does anyone know anything about this one on ebay? It's not so far from Stoke this time http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1990-NISSAN-300ZX-3-0L-TWIN-TURBO-AUTO-black-NEW-GEARBOX-Z32-Fairlady-/150987743603?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item2327922173 cheers Rich

Cheers guys. It's true I don't need to get the engine in the car urgently, it has had this light knock for at least 18 months and as I mentioned has not got appreciably worse in that time. It does niggle me somewhat but doesn't stop me enjoying using the car either. In fact if anything it stops me from ragging it as I treat it bit more gently because of that, which is good for the mpg as well as keeping points off my license lol This should be an interesting project too Rich

That just kinda repeats my dilemma lol. I take on board what you say about cambelt, tensioners and springs though So if i were to go route 2.... I suppose it would all depend cost wise on what is found when 'inspecting parts'. any rough idea on what I could be getting into money wise assuming I can get it all dismantled and reassembled but have to hope some other members here may help with the actual inspection/work? Route 3 is it even possible to put a rough price on that? If this is the equivalent of a 'reconditioned engine' or even an upgraded engine I'd just like to have some handle on what I am possibly getting into here finanacially (and the benefits of doing so) before I start on this 'good running' engine dicky

OK this is a genuine question - though some of you may think the question is silly as you know much more mechanically than me so it may sould daft..... but anyway here goes.... As I have mentioned before my Zed has a 'shallow knock' at least that is what Jeff at Zedworld called it. HAving said that the car runs OK but the knock (which happens between applying power and letting off again for example when changing gear) annoys me To be fair to what Jeff told me it has not got worse (or much so) over the last 18 months However..... I am now in possesion of a good running engine courtesy of Noz and the doner car I was buying but he beat me to it..... complete with turbos. plenum, and various other bits. Noz has heard it running and he tells me it's good so I'll happily take his word for it So here is the conundrum: Seeing as mine is running OK and not in need of an urgent transplant I'm not sure what to do with this engine. I want to take of the plenum and cogs/tensioners etc and get them all polished and chromed as that is the look I want to achieve. BUT what else would you suggest I do? Leave it alone and swap it with mine (apart from the chrome shiny stuff I want to do) Rebuild the engine (better start with a good one than a bad one?) Upgrade the turbos (Noz says they may already have been upgraded but does not know) Rebuild the engine to a higher spec than standard? Time is not necessarily of the escence here.... but it is not a bottomless pit of money (though it has some spare to play with) so what is the best options and roughly how much would I be spending? Also playing around with this engine is possibly a good way for me to get from electronics engineer to mechanical one? Cheers Rich

Yes the engine bay and the interior look nice However apparently it has some bad corrosion problems BIG Thanks to the member(s) who popeed round and had a look Rich

Hmm I do like the look of those Draxan I'll put them on my 'wish list' too Cheers

Cheers Draxan. Do you have these on your car? Also as a bonus those Zeta-R are shiny. I do like shiny things :biggrin: So does the missus too ......which can be a conflict at times lol Rich

got number cheers its a local Z for local people huh lol Rich

Yeah I liked some bits and not others too - and so did my friend If the bodykit on the front wings could be kinda 'merged' with that on the rear quarters by fabricating something up on the doors it would look interesting maybe... in a kinda GTO sorta way z32bolt I'd PM you m8 but can't.. I don't suppose you'd be free to pop over and have a quick look at it this weekend to see if it's any good? Or anyone else in Bournemouth.... Rich

Or anyone know anything about this car for sale on ebay? Is/was it a members car? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1992-NISSAN-300zx-fairlady-V6-Twin-Turbo-Auto-2-2-SILVER-/251224005391?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item3a7e1e1b0f I have a friend who's still toying with buying one of these to use as a second car / show car Problem is it's down in Bornemouth so a very long way from Stoke just to have a look Rich

Those spring adjusters are cheap - did anyone ever try them? I really only need to raise the car slightly I think... say 10mm Those Zeta-R not cheap but as well has having adjustable damping they also say 'Lower Bracket : Light weight anodized aluminum bracket are use to reduce weight and allow independent adjustment of the ride height. High Strength double wall design steel bracket are used with MacPherson Strut Suspension for added strength and durability' towards the end of the page. I'm a bit confused if that is valid for all models. Would these allow the ride height to be fairly easily adjusted for shows?

Since I fitted the new body kit on my car I'm having a slight issue with speed humps - like no matter how slow you approach some of them the front end will still catch on them :mad2: I do know my car has Eibach springs and is lowered but I don't know how much Now I was just thinking if it was sat maybe 1cm higher it would probably not be very noticable and would help with those pesky humps. Is that possible to adjust the height or does it require a lot of work? A friend of mine (who does not have a Z so maybe he is wrong) said I would need to dismantle the suspension and fit new springs and/or shock absorbers to do that. Is that right? :confused1: Rich

I asked the vehicle trimmer to fix them as it sounds like replacements are a bit hard to come by then Said it wouldn't be much of a job, only problem I would imagine is getting the colour to match the rest of the interior plastic Rich

Hi guys My car is being re-trimmed in leather at the moment (seats and the tweed cloth under dash, around centre console and on door panels etc), but there are a also few problems with the plasticky vinyl trim. Any suggestions on how best to fix this? Main problems is on the targa trims (both sides) and also the rear side trims - which another member on here told me are an unusual type on my car? Oh and also the sun visors are rather worn Check out the pics.

Yeah Andy it wouldn't be much of a thing to change the LED colours either I'll wait until the interior is done and then see how it all looks together Talking of which...... I'm gonna be without my fair lady from Monday for two to three weeks.... as she goes in for a full interior retrim in leather :cool3: Rich

Hi Guys I got my new steering wheel fitted and reverse indiglow dials, plus finally fitted my white LED illuminated pods that I converted months ago Used the tutorial in the FAQ here - by the way my illumination was also reverse polarity to that shown in the example pics on the FAQ I like the reverse indiglo dials - I think they have a much more modern look than the original clocks and they were not too expensive either They show up well on the video herehttp:// Rich

Its not for sale Ahhh Ouch! that hurt ouch Rich

Yeah Yeah but whats that freaky f#ckin voodoo doll thing that Draxan has got on his key Z fob? I'm not an overly sensitive sort but that really worries me that does!! Like is it more Draxula or some crazy sh!t like that?? Rich