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MarkDerby

Standard Member
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    United Kingdom

Everything posted by MarkDerby

  1. the Motor/wiper unit will be bolted on to the car's body by 2 or 3 bolts ... remember to take wiper arms off and disconnect the arm to the other side wiper ... the Motor its self will be fine .. no need to take that apart the unit should come open by a bolts/screws going around the case once its open take note of how the gears are in there ... take them all out inc the Main splined shaft and clean grease it all and put back together ..
  2. its not the motor. its the wiper arm shaft going in to the gear box on the unit take it out ... take the hole thing apart clean & grease it up put back together and u be good to go
  3. the drawing looks spot on ... for All the turbo act / boost side need to be 6mm int for the boost gauge & Control unit 4mm int
  4. 18" mate not sure that do the gtrs in 19" - - - Updated - - - 18" mate not sure that do the gtrs in 19"
  5. it does get a little confusing but the key is ... when u borrow £££ u dont give the change back .. u pay the full amount loads of ppl forget that bit and try and work out how the change is split :)
  6. not that again .. thats been making its rounds for years ... lol its easy .. u borrowed £50 each ... thats what u owe ... pay back the 100 u keep the 3quid plus the items u purchase
  7. u talking about link/page not working ? as FB is working for me
  8. yes i have rotors on with f8.5=235 r9.5=265 ... they have a very very little stretch ... Ideally could do with 245&275 15mm spacers on front rear arch's rolled and flared a tiny bit ... as they did catch on rear due to being lowered
  9. couldn't replicate it on the bench it only seen and wouldn't move when i pulled the engine out
  10. yep .. remember move it across but not to tight ... lock it ... then undo the locking bolt that u put in there ( remember to take it out once done ) u looking for about 5mm preload gap
  11. looks spot on to me .. long as the line on the belt for lower pully is on the dot ... u be fine
  12. Passanger tub ... drivers side bank cyl 123 AFR seemed spot on Damage is Cyl3 Melted piston and 4 valves cyl 1/2 pitted piston burnt head gasket cly 456 like the day i put them in there
  13. front mount IC and No its not plumbed in wrong as its Autobahn/HKS 740injectors JD tuning running @ 16psi AFR on boost 12>11 ( slightly on Rich side ) No boost leaks tested up to 25psi All engine timing and sensors was fine tested and checked 5 days before thought i had a Problem with my boost controller as it wouldnt controlled the boost right to high or not at all then some times it was ok ... so taken it out and connected the tubs up as stock 16psi on these tubs everything ok ... untill started to missfire and smoke out the exhaust and breathers .. as that point i knew something bad was wrong pulled the engine out and noticed the act on tub was stuck open
  14. Read from the bottem up Hi Tom Ok the turbos each side of the engine feed only 3cyl per side on a sepret plenum chamber Linked with a 1” balance bar if one tub starts to play up the boost demand is still there But at the link bar will not flow the amount needed it will make the engine Run lean or Boost way to much on the side that is working correctly but then Over working to provide the Lack of been “on a twin turbo, if one goes down, the other one will speed up to compensate for the drop in pressure. They're linked through a boost controller that will just keep both actuators closed until it sees the right pressure. When you have one turbo speed up you end up with a plenum at very high boost as is expected when you have two plenums fed independently by two seperate turbos” ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Hi Mark, I am not sure I understand the last part of your email, but the if this valve is catching on the valve seat, heat and expansion will not cause it to seize shut, it will only increase the problem of it seizing open. If it is seizing shut, it is not due to the valve catching. Regards, Tom Russell ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Hi Tom In the video only shows the tub sticking open but when it was bolted to the engine and i tested it in front of my Tech guy it jammed shut a few times Lets say when car/turbo is hot that it gets worse and does Jam shut/open more think u will find its the route of the Problem just happend Will let u know soon as there Packed ready to go ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Hi Mark, I certainly agree there is a fault with the turbocharger, this is clear in your video. This of course will be sorted under warranty assuming our initial diagnosis is correct. I understand what you are saying about the failed engine bank being on the same side as the faulty turbo, but assuming the valve is seizing open its physically impossible for excessive boost pressure to be delivered to that side of the engine. Let me know which day you would like me to arrange the courier for and I will make sure it is done. Regards, Tom Russell ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Hi Tom Yes once i find a box for them i can get them packed as arranged.. remember one turbo works one half of the engine and other tub other half This turbo at fault as the same side of the engine has failed on The turbo is at fault and it needs sorting out Mark ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Hi Mark, Judging by the video it appears to be seizing after full extension, when pressure is released and the valve tries to close. This can occur (although it’s very uncommon) when the poppet valve has too much “play” and when fully extended, then released, the valve picks up on the valve seat, causing the valve to stick open – the video you have attached appears to show this as the problem (we can confirm for sure once the turbos are back). This can be rectified by modifying the valve/mechanism to remove this excess movement – it’s a simple procedure. This problem, as per your video, only occurs when closing the wastegate, thus seizing the mechanism open. In your video it doesn’t appear to seize shut at any point (if the valve is catching on the valve seat, it cannot seize shut). This would have the opposite effect to that you have described as the engine failure. The only impact this would have on the engine would be a lack of boost pressure as the wastegate is open – this could not possibly result in such an engine failure. Would you like me to arrange a courier to come and collect the turbochargers? We can then confirm the fault with the turbocharger and proceed accordingly. Kind regards, - - - Updated - - - trying to riddle out of it if u ask me ....
  15. Blitz i-d lll type r really good kit
  16. :) just got home, sat down drinking my tea ... i'm bloody nackerd good day did quite a bit Mark
  17. Yep on one side so the other turbo is making up for lost boost ... In turn runs lean on one side Balance bar will not do its job with that much of a diffrence
  18. ok u got me .. i did see it after i posted the above lol
  19. did u ? lol ok thats good anyways :clap:
  20. your refitting the old belt ? bad idea if u ask me .. unless its its really new and u know how many miles its done .. other wise i would get a new one for peace of mind Mark
  21. if your fitting the OEM belt make sure all timing lines are on the dots of the cam/crank sprockets .. these all so should align up with the timing marks on the back black cover
  22. make sure u have the bolt lock on fully ... fit the belt and then move the tensioner towards the belt take most of the slack up ... lock it off and then release the bolt lock ... your looking for around 5mm gap where the tensioner piston is rotate the engine a few times make sure timing marks are good and check the tensioner gap

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