Bilky

Just an update - all joints resoldered - speedo so far works a charm! Even fixed the 5mph out speedo as well so just got to keep an eye on it now! Saved getting a speed sensor and wasting £100

I found using the wire method almost impossible - I just used a bit of brute force and eased it up from the edges - came off without too much bother - I used some gardening gloves so I didnt hurt my hands though!

The only issue I have is using a dirty oil cooler for your clean transmission fluid - Transmission fluid will clean it out nicely and deposit the carbon all over your transmission innards. In my opinion - buy and use only a brand new cooler for the transmission.

Is there any way of testing the unit by applying a voltage to it anywhere?

I thought you might say that!! I'll go and by a de-solder gun to help!

Have a very intermittant speedo at the moment - mostly doesnt work though - before I go the route of replacing speed sensor I know a few people suggest re-soldering the pcb to fix dry solder joints - I dont have a speed convertor box to worry about. Does anyone have any pictures of the jpoints to look at - is it just the ones on the membrane at the back of the dials or is it a case of take the housing apart to get to the dial electronics themselves and do that side of things? Any help much appreciated! Thanks in advance!

I dont have pm - email me at abiltcliffe 'at' tiscali.co.uk cheers!!!

Heard you have an air con condensor going spare - do you still have it? Mines sprung a leak. Thanks.

Does anyone have a condensor for a 1990 TT that isknown to be in good working order? Mines sprung a leak. Thanks

Where did you get the replacement radiator from for £25? Thanks.

Difficult to tell - my original pipe has quite a long metal pipe coming from the felxible pipe that runs down to the cross member, and it has quite a kink in it - the replacement one is quite straight as in the pictures and so doesnt come in at the right angle to fit.....

Got a replacement for my 1990 TT as I suspect its sprung a leak. Only thing is the design of the raplcement is different - The metal pipe at the neck is shorter and so it doesnt want to locate onto the pump assembly. Does anyone know if Nissan have more than one part number depending on the year of the car, or is there a knack to pushing the pipe down the engine so its all at the right angle. Thanks for any help.

does anyone have the procedure and list which tools are needed to remove the high pressure pipe that tends to leak? Thanks in advance....

He didnt say what the gas was exactly, just it was a blend of a few gases, but he did say that he puts in a bit less than the R12 weight stated on the sticker for the car as it runs a slightly higher pressure. If the sticker is lost then I can look it up for you. I told him I'd mention him on the web site so he should offer you £65 for the job, he vacuumed the system first to remove any moisture and old gas and then charges it back up. He's more than happy to talk to if you have any Q's then drop him a line.

Anyone near Preston , A company called Chill Out based in Leyland - pretty much a one man band, but I phoned him at 2:30pm and he said come round at 6:30pm - Re-gassed the car with an R12 drop in replacement with dye for leak checks, took 30mins and charged £65. Air con back to working well again. :hyper:

Is the steering wheel centred properly? the system might be detecting an incorrect angle in the hicas sensor

I use some cheap stuff from Asda at 2.50 for 5 litres keeps the expensive oil fresher for longer at minimal cost.

When did you last check the condition of the battery? It could be on its last legs. These cars need an awful lot of juice to run.

It could be the xpansion tank has cracked and is loosing all the water. If you remove the front wheel, then take off the innser shroud you can get right to it - there is a pipe right at the bottom of it - sometimes the plastic part on the tank breaks.....

Deffo Phil .....

try disconnecting the grey plastic connector right next o the tps while the engine is running - then reconnect it. When you disconnect it the car may complain for a second bu then should settle down. Then reconnect it back. See how that goes. That of course is after you make sure the voltage for the TPS is set at 0.45v...Ther is a write up on twinturbo.net on how to set it.

I did these 2 quite a while back - the 2 matrix hoses where about £17 from Nissan - get some jubilee clips to replace the ones from nissan and just use a stanley knife to cut the old ones off. The attach the two new hoses to the matrix pipes first, then fixing the upper connections last as the cross over each other....Shouldnt take long to do them.

OK - lets begin. My auto has started to act up over the last few weeks, not engaging overdrive until about 20 mins into a journey and sometimes it would pop back out when cruising, slow gear changes and so increased fuel consumption. Oh dear I thought - time to get the wallet out...... So I thought I'd do a little bit of maintenance on it first, so I drained out all the old fluid using a hand pump from Demon Tweeks - that got the pan dry as a bone so when i dropped the pan I didnt get covered in oil. I cleaned out some residue from the bottom of the pan and left it to dry, then I got out the strainer expecting to see if blocked up, but lo and behold, the last set of cowboys to touch the transmission (6 years ago) had just hack sawed and ripped the gauze out of the strainer......yeah, great isnt it, I'd name names but I cant remember who it was...... Anyway, got a new strainer from Nissan £35 so not bad really. Fitted everything back up and filled back with fluid. Then remembered I wanted to adjust the throttle cable, so out come the spanners and a few minutes later the slack is gone. Drove the car to work today and its as good as new - so far! The moral? If I'd taken it to a specialist they would have charged me an arm and a leg for what cost me £45 with the extra fluid I needed.....And they would have said the transmission was worn out and I'd have been none the wiser. So before condemning the transmission just a few simple checks may at least mean you've done as much as you can before you take it somewhere. Adjusting the cable write up is on TT.net and the auto oil change is on Zhome.com I was amazed at the difference of the shifting and I'd lay 80% of that at the door of the cable slack.

It could be overheating causing detonation - top up the water and check for airlocks and see how it goes.

What does the end with the gauze filter look like? Mines just a gaping hole with some nasty jagged edges round it. Not good for 6 years of driving with no filter....