Bilky

Yeah, but your 'FACTs' werent applicable to all imports. Only some. And quite economical with the truth too. :slap:

Mines a Jap import.... Had it 5 years and been very reliable....(thats done it now!) Underseal is present in standard form aplenty - no rust under mine. Electric folding wing mirrors are cool. I dont have a parking ariel..... The foglights, speed chime and light bulbs are easily modded. Although I've left my foglight and speed chime alone. I added the required earth lead to the light housing and can use normal off the shelf bulbs. The speedo conversion - granted can go wrong - however I have had a stick on face over the existing one calibrated in MPH and I challenge anyone to spot it - a perfect match - Yes it only reads to about 120mph but really- do you need to know your speed after 100? You'll be banned regardless...... The autobox on the Jap is more sophisticated than the euro one. Jap cars have not been ragged like UK ones. If thats a worry - dont buy a modded car - why mod it if not to drive it harder. Buy it stock and mod it yourself. Yes narrower wheels at the rear, got plenty of grip and not felt it lacking at all. (see debate on here about wider rear wheels) You can get leather imports if u want them. No problem. Who on earth keeps the stock radio? Unless u are selling it on! BAH!

Do we need to ask why you want to do this? Are the springs the wrong ones? If memory serves you can buy coil overs or something similar to manually compress them.

Its either the coil or the PTU - a search for PTU will reveal more - quite a common problem

Bon Jovi - Dead or alive Fleetwood Mac - The Chain (old F1 tune) Any Joe Satriani :) Tubular Bells U2 Beautiful Day Any Jamiroquai And for chill out I ike the Classical stuff - Blue Danube is my favourite...Something quite good about wafting along in the car to that one! :cool:

Usual case for suspecting the speed sensor is your speedo going crazy and jumping around the guage...This can affect the cruise control but it is unlikely to be this unless the visual clue of the speedo needle is also obvious. Check the vac lines under the bonnet and any fuses the system needs. Is is arming? and is it setting at all - it only works above 30 mph as well.

I would suggest a scrap yard - must be hundreds of them available...

It should be 32 front and 34 rear - I have the pressures stated on my car in bar. But 33 all round will do.

I agree - you watch the speedo more than the road - quite dangerous sometimes. The speed camera are always in a 'difficult' spot to drive through - hardly ever on a straight piece of road - always a corner or at the top or bottom of a hill.

Probly dont need them really on an auto - they are only any use on a manual as when you change gear the throttle closes the air intake - on the auto you keep them open as you keep your foot down :) and so the pressure doesnt need to be vented out....:cool:

I've got them on mine and they are fine.

Found it - if you though it was complicated so far then try this for size. All you ever wanted to know about climate control on the z. http://www.ttzd.com/tech/autocctech.html

Just to correct an earlier item - it is possible to set tolerances for the system in a set up mode (cant remember how to do it - there was a write up somewhere) where you can set the balance temps for feet etc to be higher than other areas in order of degrees. If I can find it I'll post it but I think it was part of the diagnostic readings.

Thats Class! Started at $10 and finished at $860 - a good days work - he'll get plenty of tools and beer with that!

Well - drove home from work and back this morning - no coolant loss - so its the HKS Radiator cap.....so much for that. Are there any differences in radiators from Jap spec to UK spec? The rad cap I have - a Nissan original - certainly seems to fit better than the HKS one.

I've had excatly the same problem with the CAS - I havent experienced your misfiring or odd running - but I have had the 'just touched it and the car dropped dead' I cleaned it all up - noticed yours is already clean - and check that all the contacts where not too flat to make a good contact and fitted it firmly back - it stopped it cutting out if you touched it though. You may have a PTU problem - well known to work OK when cold but once warm cause all sorts of problems......Check that connector out as well - but it may be worth swapping it for a good one to see if it does the trick

You probably have less backpressure now on the seals - see how it goes.

I'll keep an eye on it for a few days to see. If theres still water in it up to the top when I get home then the cap is the problem - water still missing then theres a leak somewhere.....

Go for a BMW M series.....

Already done it - will see how it goes on the way home - didnt have any problems such as coolant loss with it - but the rubber seal is way past its best!!!

Got a new rad cap - a hks one - but now am losing 2 cups of water a day - Do these fit our radiators and should I just go for a stock Nissan one....? Thanks.

You can check he wiring to it to rule out a bad connection - other tha that its a replacement job.

I have sent you an invitation to a meeting - we dont seem to have any resources set up so I couldnt include one of those. Let me know if you need another.

Is it easy to take the tank out as I want to clean it out and flush it through.

How easy is it to drain the overflow tank - is there a tap to open? Is it easy to get to and do you have to remove the plastic inner wheel arch to do it? Cheers.