Slick Pete.

It was on a very big jig with a highly skilled operator(of God like status actually) Lots of the story of the build is in the NA tuning section.

Here is where it all began...................................... It was VERY bent:blush:

cheers Ian. I only ever had in mind painting the roof and hatch with the Electric orange . Im not sure wot wheels you saw on it . I have some Japanese split rims (17") deep polished lip and dark centres like the car.. i also have some cheeepo Woolfrace 17s . also just acquired a decent set of Fox Rs 18" May need to part with something eventually. I like the wheels it sits on now but not the gold centres. They used to be on Bobgenies convertible. Hopefully I can get a bit of "on the road" mapping on the Emerald before bringing it to Japshow.

It was nearly six years ago that Yaseen brought me his damaged slicktop . After I stripped off everything he wanted I was left with a damaged rolling shell. Today I took it for an MOT and got a first time pass.:thumbup1: Just need to get insurance transferred to it and tax it for June 1st. Its still a work in progress with lots to do. Might have a run to JapShow at Santa Pod.

Im around all weekend. You can check out the new arrival !!!:thumbup1: Just call to check location I will let you have your jumper back too:blink:

I may have some good ones soonish. engine still in car but I have seen a Turbo Technics plate on one of them and the outer casting doesnt loook that old/corroded.

Cheers guys!! i have had several offers of a replacement. I may take up an offer later. in the meantime its actually a strong repair. I put the pipe(broken off ) back in the correct place with super glue.. then quickly mixed up some resin (red hardner) and wrapped some biaxial weave fibreglass round the repair. Final finish with resin is messy cos it was getting late and I wanted to put it back and check the engine was 100% running again

Probably the worst bodge/instant fix I have ever done..........:blink: BUT it has transformed a poorly revving stalling engine back to its former glory. Now purring like a kitten and All clear on the fault codes.:thumbup1: Nobody will ever know:ninja: You can laugh etc...

You are correct there Steve. The car is capable of running mid or even low elevens. No traction issues at all with the Hoosier Drag Radials.:thumbup1: I just need to train the driver a little more.;);) Being serious....Overall Bob cut 0,3 secs from his previous best so a good days effort. Getting in to the elevens is not an easy driving task . Bob knows what is needed next time improve and he will get there without doubt. 2011 RWD results.... Bob was running on 5 cylinders we later found out:huh: so put the 12.05 in that list from last year. Elvington does not run as quick as Santa pod tho as the track is rough as old boots!

Bobgenie. Today at Santa Pod................ 12.05s at 126.31mph. 1.81s 60ft. 4.30pm. Final run. Hoosier Drag radials. Earlier he ran a 12.12s at a mindblowing 130.27mph. TOTB in July .... Bring it on!:thumbup1:

Its the first thing I ever did to my original car. i went out the week I got it in the evening and frightened myself silly. Bought the HID kit that same week. Even Nissan thought it was a good idea cos they fitted them in the very late cars.

IMO.... IMO the headlights are an intergral part of the iconic front end. They are so good lambourghini borrowed them. Ducks.... runs for cover...................................:clown:

Google is your friend...................................... http://www.timeattack.co.uk/2011/area.php?a=5 I will be in the pits with Jaffa at Knockhill :thumbup1:

Removing the aircon rad will help . make sure you leave the rad cowl in place tho!! Front mount intercoolers were not planned by Nissan when they built it so that is almost certainly having a negative effect.

As would fitting the alcantara trim fom my car!!!:thumbup1: :D:D

Wot Paul Said +1. Put plenty of washing up liq in bucket. flat down all paint. 400/600 will do. Wipe it all with proper panel wipe to get rid of residual silicne from old polish etc. Apply paint.

Door card wont come off with window fully up as you cant access the screws to release the pilllar covers to then get to the top screws on the door card. The multiplug sits on the inside of the A pillar just above the trim cover Releasing it allows the door to be removed complete with everything installed.

I have a pair of doors off a 94 ser2 UK car . They are off the car and I need to power up the window motors directly off a battery . Can anyone point me to a diagram to which colur wires go directly to the motors?? I dont want to damage the door cards or the top pillar cover. Thanks

:hammer::hammer::hammer: :rofl:

Yep its all drifting off topic now!! Thats OK cos I have distilled out some valid points from known and trusted members. the consensus of opinion is similar to my own. It looks like a close call. So I think........that a manual will sell easier than a auto. There will be a modest price premium. The price difference will only cover a conversion if you DIY and have the kit available at reasonable money.

Wot He said!!! someone sholud have a good used one. If not I have a really good manual version. As already said you would also need an autobox fluid cooler separately. that actually is a better long term solution . IMO

The car was/is just an example to make a level discussion point. I havent got and Im not getting a 95 Slicktop TT in either guise. Im looking at the cost/benefit side of things. I could equally have used a ser2 LWB UK spec car for the example. But I have got something in mind:biggrin:

You have PM

thanks Mark thats just the kind of info I need. They are just"in a box" apparently So I will look for little tags etc or ask if he has any paperwork.

Ok guys n gals since Im not a TT owner then I dont have a lot of experience of looking at turbos. If I told you I had a Turbo techics hybrid turbo(Well a pair for a 300) how would you know thats wot they were?? Size/shape/ markings on castings etc.??? Do they need "special" bits of manifold?? Or do they replace stock turbos?? Do they look the same/different to stock ones. How can you tell a stock one??? Help!:confused1: :stupid: