Slick Pete.

ECU/Control box clearance! Any two items for £10. No 9 which is an engine ECU is £10 on its own. Postage on top from £3.90 recorded depending what you buy. Everything has a number written in black magic marker inside a circle. Simple format... Post up on here what numbers you want...if any?? so everyone can see what is allocated. I dont know what they all are so no point in asking me.:whistling: Do they work??? Well probably.:biggrin: If anyone gets an item that proves to be faulty then I will send £5 back so all you lose is a small amount of postage.:thumbup1:

Braided line ..... https://zcentre.co.uk/index.php/shop/300zx-z32-clutch-flywheel/master-slave-clutch-line-kit-r-h-d https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HEL-STAINLESS-BRAIDED-CLUTCH-LINE-HOSE-300ZX-Z32-3-0-TURBO-MASTER-SLAVE-CCK107/282804365046?hash=item41d87426f6:g:~PsAAOSw2s1Urpiz

A simple enough job for any competent garage person. It doesnt need a "Zed specialist" even. There are two options on pipe. 1. Make a replacement metal pipe...which is simple and very cheap. 2. Buy a ready made one piece braided line that goes from cylinder to cylinder..

Hello!!!! https://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?189496-Pit-passes-Ten-of-the-Best-Elvington-July-29th Ian put it on Facebook too!! I was talking to Bobgenie yesterday. He will be going in his EVO not the 300 sadly. When I told him there was a few of us going in 300s to watch/display he said " I expect Bird will be there!!!"

My friend Matt at MG alignment has a full Hunter Hawkeye set up.....in Ripley Derbyshire. https://www.mgwheelalignment.co.uk/ Does road and race set ups. Also these guys do road and race set ups. Matt used to go here before he got his own set up in Ripley. I had mine done here a number of years ago..... http://www.alignment-services.co.uk/Default.aspx Old Basford. Nottingham.

For a competition car yes.................................for a road car it is simply not neccessary. IMHO of course.

Check the signal to the injectors with a Noid light

Back to the future Alic?????:lol::lol:

Following on from a discussion about anti roll bars ...I have a UK/Euro spec 27mm rear bar for sale. A useful first step upgrade to any J spec car which has a 21mm bar fitted. £25 collected. J26 M1 near Nottingham. Im happy to send to any UK address at whatever it costs. Message me or Email me for a price. pmaczc@madasafish.com PRICE LOWERED to be cheaper than elsewhere now.

That mm or two as you put it is significant when you do the maths. 21 to 27 is 6mm. But when you look at cross sectional area this is what you get. 21mm = 346 sq mm 27mm = 572 sq mm. A 65% increase. Thats comparing hollow bar to hollow bar. You cant directly compare it to the solid Stillen bar.

There wernt many at the AGM which was held outside but we did agree we wouldn't allow any obsessive polishers to enter next year:lol::lol::lol:

Exactly! I won't notice any difference Im sure. Just like i havn't noticed any difference with the change of headers or the change to Volks forged wheels with Dunlop Direzza and Toyo R888 on instead of the Federal 595RS I used to run. I was slow n steady before all these changes and Im still slow n steady after them.:biggrin:

i can probably enlighten you now!!:lol::lol:

Went to Coventry meet AGM on Sunday Bought a strut brace from Mike Sandford. Sourced some bolts that were missing. Polished it Fitted it today. Does it do anything apart from add weight???:whistling: I think it may help front end rigidity "a bit":yes: Or is it just useless Taiwan Bling Tat??:lol: Who knows!

And you were missed too..

Stillen kit...........................https://conceptzperformance.com/items.php?c=1&p=155&page=1 Combine this with the Meister coilovers to form the basis of a great handling car.

Try removing the belts and cleaning them 101% with panel wipe/ brake cleaner. You could also rough up the pulley grooves a little with some 180 grit wet n dry. IMHO the pulleys are just too smooth inside the grooves so the belt struggles to grip properly.

They unscrew...12mm spanner....Make sure the boot lid is well supported before you start or you will break something...probably your arm or your head.

Mine is 5.9 sec......with printed independent evidence:biggrin: The difference between 5.4 and 6 sec is 0.6 sec. That is a huge difference in some respects. In my case it took me two seasons of running at York Raceway to drop my 1/4 mile time 0.3 sec. I probably had 30 or so runs in the 14.5 - 14.7 bracket before I finally managed a 14.3 run and I then felt I could never do better with the car in that state of tune. On the other hand a driver with limited practice of launching on track would see 0.6sec variations easily.

And how it is measured....... GPS timing at tracks now has come on a long way since 1990. And there is always a difference between self timed and independent measurements.:thumbup1:

The only reference to Car and Driver I could see was this 1990 test......at 6.7sec Autocar and Motor UK test in 1990 gave a 5.6 0 to 60 time. Plus a 1/4 mile time of 14.4 at 100mph terminal. Road and Track in the USA tested a turbo at 6.5 secs in 1989. And in 1990 an NA at 7.1 secs. In 1992 Nissan GB claimed 5.9 secs for a manual and 7.5 secs for an auto. In 1995 Motor Trend tested a turbo at 5.5 secs The Stillen GTZ gave the same magazine a 4.7 0 to 60 in the previous year. 465 bhp. So figures all over the place all over the world.

Without doubt the most random approach we ever go down to any meet.:scared:

Underdrive crank pulleys are prone to squealing in my experience. Mine does on start up when the alternator is under load. It soon goes away tho so I just ignore it.:thumbup1: My blue stuff pads squeal even louder.!! Once again I just ignore it.:thumbup: But Im a happy go lucky style of owner so I can happlily live with all my cars imperfections.

Today I did some mundane stuff.... Changed the tow strap for a new one. While I was in there I emptied the catch tanks and cleaned the little breathers. The air filter looked a bit clogged up so that had a pressure wash with TFR and a compressed air blow dry. The car just needs a quick wash to be ready for Coventry.

Look on the belt you have. the numbers relate to the size.