Stephen

Indeed, although I thought PE had gone out of business. It's a shame it's not an easy case to use Holset turbos as they are superior to Garret in quality and half the price due to thier market.

That certainly seems to be the implication as far as I read it. If something isn't an upgrade because it fails easier that's a down grade. Really that's dependant on the part. For example I expect my stainless exhaust will outlast the car. You were specifically enquiringly about turbos though and anything made by garret is generally OE quality because that was its original destination, ie it's not aftermarket.

Because your saying that anything aftermarket has a higher failure rate, the implication is that the quality is not the same as an OEM item. My point is it's an OEM item from another model, not reproduction tat. Ie what your saying is an untruth and misleading. If anything the question should be are Garret not the company they once were. I'm not being pedantic Jeff your implying that an orange is an apple simply because it's not in its original fruit bowl.

Except most turbos aren't after market, they are original Garret products borrowed from other cars and made to fit?

Trouble is your assuming they are "expensive hybrids" most aren't. In fact most are nothing special at all. Take the ever popular gt600 kit z1 sells, these are mearly gt2860 garret units fitted as standard to many cars including the S15 Silvia, simply re clocked with mods to drain ports etc. Whilst I do see rebuilds fail more regularly, I think maybe the failure rate of properly fitted Garrett units is pretty low. Failure of rebuilds is normally a direct result of the rebuild and importantly rebalance quality or the initial fault, excessive crank case pressure, blocked oil feed etc not properly rectified, just going in circles. Failure in new units is usually down to installation error.

No comment.

Quite a reduction hey, just shows how much that stuff weighs. Like driving around with a kid in the boot.

Oh I see the new set are factory balanced unlike the originals?

In a straight line, when they work. :lol:

I doubt they would all fail at once. You can test them by ohm testing the injector. Go through and check your connections. If it turns, sparks and has fuel it should go. Timing and compression are the other two but start simple. Check for loose connections then fuel and spark.

I believe your right, in the case of twin turbo models though the oil cooler also bypasses the filter. Oh and if your oil tree o ring hasn't been changed this century a bit will be seeping by but we're talking gnats piss.

Yeah agreed, not that high though lol, the camber looks odd too. Then Daves pic, looks better.

Probably wants driving back and forward let the suspension settle.

It's not hard it's just long winded.

Autos have milder cams and a lower AR turbo, the exhaust housing is smaller, just. The slush box has a higher parasitic drain on the drive line as well. Mean while in the real world it makes a very minimal if any noticeable difference. If anything a converted auto will be more responsive.

Bear in mind I'm a busy man so I can't promise it will be easy to pin down a date. I'm busy till October at present lol.

Did you save much by buying those GSP turbos including the rebalance, it's not a cheap, cheap thing to do is it. Also what did you do with the tubular manifolds?

Did you say you've fitted a new loom? I've disturbed the ECU plug?

That's it proper job, well done. Don't loose your nerve, it's going to get pretty scarey before your done here.

I'm going to live to regret this most likely but if you find a suitable parts collection and maybe if Alex is up for it to il leave the southwest for the day and get the damn thing converted. Between three of us we could have it done in one lengthy day esp if you did some donkey work before hand.

I too use 10-40w semi, use Mobil or another brand of that type, what ever is on offer. The filters I buy OEM, they're on the shelf pretty cheap in the grand scheme and I buy a few at a time. The horror stories put me off the cheapies, as I say there not expensive. I've basically got all the consumables sat there at any given time. Change it each spring. Costs a bit more than £15 probably about £30 odd quod each change as you get like one and a half changes out the bottle. Unless it's one of those stupid 4L cans that's around more these days

I'm booked out this weekend. In fact I've not got a clear weekend till October now. :thumbdown:

Seems to be the way of things. I can't really remember the last time I heard anyone say that changing an autobox was successful, only ever temporarily. This is one of the reasons I personally would just say, it's time to go manual.

Totally agree, throwing cash just guessing is a very expensive and disheartening way to progress forward.

Keep at it bud, I'm down to the 21s for 5k now but haven't done a 10k yet. Kinda what to break 20 first, dunno why lol.