Stephen

If you just want the turbo elbows off then yeah, completely do able. In fact I do that before any kinda major work in that area to free up space. The problem is getting them off when they haven't moved for 20+ years, rust, heat cycling etc etc, not fun. If you've got stock elbows and japspeed front pipes I'm guessing you have the NA version with the silencers in them? The Turbo version won't match up. If you google it you will see they are completely different. Virtually all the aftermarket stuff the flange is 45' where as stock it's 90'. Hard to explain.

Hook up a vac gauge to your oil dip stick tube and see how much back pressure there is or isn't. If the rear seal had failed you wouldn't get any oil in the system, just grey smoke from oil evaporating. If it's blue it's being combusted.

Yeah loads of people, that's what z1 call the gt525 kit. The T28 is a better core and rebuild costs are the same as they use the same kit. Don't forget the cost to machine the housings would be additional.

Certainly seems that way doesn't it. Built in insolence they call it, the alarmist would say if it's got a chip in it, it's got a date when when its programmed to fail. How many mobile phones last more than 2-3 years, enough to be out of contract...

No, I wouldn't dream of pulling the plenum yet. Just perform an Ohm test, this involves putting a meter across the injector and seeing what resistance it has. It may have failed and not open. Also as I've already had loom issues the cable may be broken further back so you must test for a complete circuit. As Pete suggests a noid light is the easiest way to do this.

Thing is though and what seems to be being missed and is so very vital in that case. What turbos are we using that aren't OEM specs? Most, say 80% of the turbo kits for sale by the likes of Z1 are simply stock turbos from different models reapplied. The only ones that are used often is the gt525, which is a t28 core in t25 housing. Gt535 kit uses a gt2554 and gt600 thats a pair of gt2860. You can and I assume they do buy these straight off the shelf from Garret (owned by Honeywell btw). Stock turbos on a z32 btw are actually hybrids. If turbos fitted to the Z aren't lasting as long as the factory originals, then there's only two options. Either Garret have dropped the ball and aren't making turbos as well or they are being fitted incorrectly. There is no reason if it fitted correctly your gt600 kit shouldn't last as long as the turbo the an S15 left the factory with. I spose abuse is also a factor but that's also a factor with stock, arguably more as people push them further than what they were designed for to eeek out extra ponies. Rather than running a bigger turbo softer.

Good, that's a fair but covered. Ohm test the injector next. When you say you checked the connector what did this comprise of?

Have you done any diagnostics yet? Such as Ohm testing the injectors and ensuring the circuit it there from the ECU? How did you conclude its the injector not providing fuel as aposed to a no spark fault?

I'm not quite sure how these companies are measuring light colour to reach these K numbers. They always appear lower than reality. 5-6500K is daylight white, yes white. The 6500k shown often is way more blue, more like 8k. Even 10k should be bright but not blue blue. Proper like navy blue is 20k. It's worth pointing out that brightness itself isn't everything and colour has a bearing on the penetration of light, particularly in fog or rain. As an extreme example look at how colour is lost in seawater. You will notice how much further blue light travels. Anyone who's seen emergency services in the fog will know this. That blue just travels and travels. There is another factor here though about colour tempreture and power efficiency, you need more power generally to create high K colour to the same brightness. In short a good quality white to slightly blue light will provide good penetration and brightness per watt. Sorry information overload but might be interesting to some I spose.

You don't know the half of it. :lol:

Agreed, let's watch and wait. It's worth what someone (not necessarily you or I) are willing to part with for it. £20k is pocket money for many people in this country, some (stupid, potentious and extremely wealthy) people spend more on dinner out. Let's try not to talk it down. It sells for what it sells, if it sells.

Your his best man!? :lol: oh that was a stupid mistake. I hope the stag do is still to come, I see lampposts and cling film in his near future. :thumbup:

More than likely it's ingested into the engine from the breather system. The stock design is ok, but it's major flaw is the cam cover vent location as these are too low and only on one head. Oil can poolin the head and be sucked up by the breather. In the turbos front seal is failing you will see oil residue heavily in the intercooler loop, and in worse cases when you boot it the pool that builds up in the intercooler language will be sucked up and burnt resulting in blue smoke on acceleration. The most common failure in stock turbos is oil out the rear seal, presenting itself as grey smoke that is noticeable particularly on a warm engine at idle, due to the reduced rotation of the shaft and on deceleration. The rear seal on stock tubs isn't the best, the larger and later t28 is although the same core better in this respect. From what I've read the failure of stock turbos or smoking is often down to poor oil changes and bad driving habits of both the turbo/engine and the breather system. Whilst the oil drain is quite big the galleries to it are quite small and coke up easy. The turbo core, esp being a journel bearing overfills with oil quite easily and presto smoke.

Good to know. Il be using t28s for various reasons including cost and serviceability.

Indeed, although I thought PE had gone out of business. It's a shame it's not an easy case to use Holset turbos as they are superior to Garret in quality and half the price due to thier market.

That certainly seems to be the implication as far as I read it. If something isn't an upgrade because it fails easier that's a down grade. Really that's dependant on the part. For example I expect my stainless exhaust will outlast the car. You were specifically enquiringly about turbos though and anything made by garret is generally OE quality because that was its original destination, ie it's not aftermarket.

Because your saying that anything aftermarket has a higher failure rate, the implication is that the quality is not the same as an OEM item. My point is it's an OEM item from another model, not reproduction tat. Ie what your saying is an untruth and misleading. If anything the question should be are Garret not the company they once were. I'm not being pedantic Jeff your implying that an orange is an apple simply because it's not in its original fruit bowl.

Except most turbos aren't after market, they are original Garret products borrowed from other cars and made to fit?

Trouble is your assuming they are "expensive hybrids" most aren't. In fact most are nothing special at all. Take the ever popular gt600 kit z1 sells, these are mearly gt2860 garret units fitted as standard to many cars including the S15 Silvia, simply re clocked with mods to drain ports etc. Whilst I do see rebuilds fail more regularly, I think maybe the failure rate of properly fitted Garrett units is pretty low. Failure of rebuilds is normally a direct result of the rebuild and importantly rebalance quality or the initial fault, excessive crank case pressure, blocked oil feed etc not properly rectified, just going in circles. Failure in new units is usually down to installation error.

No comment.

Quite a reduction hey, just shows how much that stuff weighs. Like driving around with a kid in the boot.

Oh I see the new set are factory balanced unlike the originals?

In a straight line, when they work. :lol:

I doubt they would all fail at once. You can test them by ohm testing the injector. Go through and check your connections. If it turns, sparks and has fuel it should go. Timing and compression are the other two but start simple. Check for loose connections then fuel and spark.

I believe your right, in the case of twin turbo models though the oil cooler also bypasses the filter. Oh and if your oil tree o ring hasn't been changed this century a bit will be seeping by but we're talking gnats piss.