Stephen

give me a shout if you want a hand with the lifting im sure i can spare a saturday morning for you.

how many man hours and wife labour... (lol my mrs wouldnt hold a spanner for all the gold in kingdom come) did it take to pull the block then. props on the work and nice to see steams giving you a hand aswel good comunity on here, even if some arnt to friendly.

im going to tottenham on thursday, how are things atm?

so what stops us from using the na flywheel etc with an uprated clutch to lighten the flywheel load im sure there was some kind of logic behind this.

oh i didnt relise this i thought it was a large chunk. what is the purpose of the of the lump?

would it not be easier / better to swap in a tt bellhousing to the na box, getting a bellhousing from a shagged box wouldnt be too hard.

keep it but colour code its too rare to simply remove

grey z32 coming out of bath around 2-3 this afternoon. and a red z31 parked up in bath near the pump house. both spotted today sadly i wasnt in my zed at the time.

my mates bmw was like that there where snapped fingers and chunks hanging out bearings rolling about. told him he shouldnt drift his 318 in the dry!

this thing comes down here once year and does a fly by at the airshow along the beach front its so damn loud

yeh, there is another red one in ringwood in about amillion pieces. theres afew about. mine is reguarly in ringwood. we shall arrange a mini meet soon.

there is a yank one on 300k atm i believe

agreed it looks good when its done correctly.

common guys tt and na. adverage milage before rebuild, who has the most in teh club who has teh fewest from factory. and how long are modded engines running moddest power around 350 or so bhp lasting with minimal supporting mods????? mine died at an indicated 80k khm its an auto tt. but i dont believe the milage tbh.

you can kill people with it, as im sure many are arware of its er dodgy uses in the 1950s so yeh brambles are toast. and so it anything else that tries to grow there. best used on patios etc

yes, you can tell because you would only produce like 5-6 psi.

this is why the zed is mapped rich, on higher revs, and aftermarjket chips esp. to overfuel slightly and get some burn off is far healthier than underfeul and melt things. although obviously you dont want too much causing borewash. i would say gauging from club member is general taht around the 400bhp mark is about a safe limit to stock interanls. obvioulsy engine health to start with will dictate this. but many are running 370 regualy without issues. i think if your going for big power 450 plus then really a rebuild is the only way forward, and will produce a more relaible and strong platform, pulling out the motor whacking big tubs injectors and upping the boost to try and wrangle out 500 bhp on a 20 year old motor will end in tears eventually, and cost more in the long run. do it properly first time or not at all. i also believe that 40bhp is pretty much the limit of usefull power on teh zed on the road, its hard enough to use 300bhp on teh road these days, with conjestion dropping speed limits and fun spoilers everywhere you look. not to mention that power has to make it to the floor else you will just be a big v6 twin turbo beyblade, with a side order of hedge.

Above is teh exploded veiw of a powered steering pump for the zed, this one is for an na, hence why there is only half a pump, the tt versions have a second impellor running at the rear and a sepearte feed from the resivoir. anyways, if yours is leaking and you fancy fixing it, here are my experinces for you. the most common leakage points are the front seal the 'o' ring or rings under the feed from teh resivoir or the pump body gaskets the copper washers on the high pressure lines obviously can fail too. the whole thing can be disasselbed with a 12 and 14mm spanner. you will need circlip pliers aswel to acess the front oil seal and bearing. the most important thing is to make sure it goes back ghow it came apart obviously. you will notice when you get to the point of having it fully disabled, takes about 10 minutes. the cam ring, has letters printed on it. make sure this line up and corrospond with the imprint of the letter left of the pump face. a good tip would be to diassable it over a tray to catch all that oil and to catch the vanes, which will fall out. its usefull to pop a pice of tape over the rotor once the vanes are in to keep them inplace remove this before ressembly. have one final check as tyou spide teh shaft back into the body of the pump to check that cam ring is correct i refitted mine 180 dgereees out, it stops teh pump working and ment i had to pull it out and try again. after this bleeding teh rack is best done wit the front still jacked up. worjking from lock to lock. i actually managed to pull teh pump out of my tt with the rad still inplace, i onl;y removed the induction pipes taht where in the way, and moved the ptu to keep it safe and give soem extra room, removing the front pully before trying to lift it out makes teh whole job far easier, and putting it back on once the pump is in situe is also easier. in an n/a the job shuld be about 10 times easier. it took me and hellraiser around 4 hours to get the pump out the first time, between gassing like old women. the second time round i did the whole job in 3 hours and that includes 1 hour faffing about trying to get the pump back in the mount, remove the adjustment part atached to the block and it just fell in doh!, so whith these tips and knowledge it should be possible tp do a simple opull and replace in around two hours. :D for those who have ever wondered what people are talking about when taking about removing something from the pump to disable it when doing hicas delete, its the vanes in the secondary rotor. detron 3 auto fluid for refill aswel. sorry for any typos or sp's. im computer illerate.

problem, solved teh pump was reassembled incorrectly. so the fluide wasnt allowed to circularte corrcetly.

the long of the short is... theres no need for the other two that show your 14psi reading they are an irrelivant measurement. and the balance bar on the plenum is a very important piece of kit :D

right ladies, what you want is clorine. get it from your local pool shop, about £20 for 20 literes smaller ones are available. its teh 14/15% stuff you want there is a 10% which can also be used, depends on how l;arger area you want tio do etc. the 14/15 can be diluted. we sell gallons of the crap to roofers and gardens etc. its evil stuff however that will bleach your clothes and will eed rinsing off before pets can walk on it etc etc etc. generally its applyed 50/50 mix with water in a pestdicide sprayer. left for an hour por so the rinised off throughly with a hose. i t will kill anything it contacts so dont uver spray on teh grass etc. any really subborbb ones can be murdered with a 100% spot dose afters. hope this helps. you did ask for the nastiest stuff

i like the kit i just dont like the execution. spray it gloss black with some subbtle full glossy carbon panels bonnet rear wing etc etc and get ri sd of a few bits like the odd feul filler and the led strip roun dthe head light, and suddently you have got yourself one very very bad ass looking zed. however i think it would also need about 600 bhp to put its mioney where its mouth is.

yeh paypal is fine il go find out it cant be much as its in three bits so quite small and its plastuic and weighs nothing lol. im pm you once i have a price

dont forget when said mpv is driven by mother who had a bottle of vino last night is still over the limit and its driving whilst sorting out lunch boxes before exacuavtion of said sprogs at the school gates usually doubled parked.

nothing cos its cracked, will do the job until you decide if you wanna pay out the 70 odd quid for a new one. just cover the postage and il post it this weekend mate.