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Stephen

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    United Kingdom

Everything posted by Stephen

  1. sounds like a plan batman. do you get smoke at idle when you have been for a blast?
  2. as i say ive never done it before, ive had a few read throughs. and i think really its about care and patience. and labeling up properly. im no expert as ive never done it but im happy to learn with you.
  3. parts of it are made from metal and they corode causing annoying and un reachable water leaks. theyre were put there to stop the throttle bodies freezing in cold climates. but its not cold enough here an di dont think anoyione hads ever discovered it was causing an issue phil(ultimateray) has done this bypass recently after one cracked on a summers day leaving him with water guishing out and a car getting hotter and hotter.
  4. no lol mines going to a friends soon for the work. weather is a bit baltic atm for stuff like that. lol. and the bypass simple deletes the water hoses that are attached to the plenum itself.
  5. http://www.acaquatics.co.uk/ thats a good tank builder and far cheaper than most. my tank is made by them. 5x2x2 drilled with weir towers cost me errr 300?
  6. yeah tahst fine vods ive had most of teh water pipes out now anyways so i can help him there. but a step by step would be great. im a bit busy next couple of weeks dave doing my manual conversion but after that i should be able to help you. you got a garage?
  7. ive had dealing with them in years gone by the salt was crap, all over the place was ok for keeping soft corals but hard corals it were crap. the product before had nitrates and phosphates in it. there systemised tanks are over priced under gunned and you will be swapping out the equipment before its first birthday. just look up reviews of there skimmers. there suplement are half arsed and dont hit the mark, and there test kits atre suspect at best. lol essentially there arnt great think of them like ripspeed. ior someother halfords typre brand. you would be best off spending half the cash on a fully systemised tank with sump etc built to your sec and buying good quality tunze for example equipment. are you by any chance a member of http://www.ultimatereef.com probally abiout the bets thing you will do if your not already. ive built alot of reef tanks for myself and others over the years been in the trade and out the trade. etc. but companies like red sea who are owned by i think interpet these days are just tropical fish tank manufactures that jumped on the wagon.
  8. there are write ups on how to make your own which is far cheaper.
  9. ive gotta do mine aswel mate. its not very complex just long winded so im led to believe but ive not got on with it just yet. we could do yours together if yiour up for getting on teh spanners.
  10. you dont want a red sea tank roobarb theyre crap. infact i dont rate any of their products.
  11. lower rocker cover gasket. plenum will need removing very common.
  12. some freshwater advntures my prized arrowanna south american chiclids after having the arrow jump out and getting sick to the back teeth of the cichlids bad tempers i opened a largish tetra tank. and my first ever tank
  13. excuse the quality of teh photos some are very old camera phone stuff. right some pictures start with my current reef. going back 3 years now and humble beginings my first reef my second reef
  14. Yeah as said if you go into todays posts then use the portal on the right it will work via the advanced search thing
  15. Get that gash out the boot get rid ofthe green and thehigh level would be perfectly normal looking zed
  16. rightttt. i think the reason your lost your betta (fighter) was due to cycling. im sure you have read about it before the tank goes through a maturation stage where bacteria build up to complete something called the nitrogeon cycle. unfortunatly new tanks suffer from peak of toxic amonia and slightly less toxic nitrite. because this process isnt complete. whilst anabantids the family that they belong to are better than most no fish can withstand a bad bloom of amonia and it can come on fast, transported fish are transported in amon locked water to prevent this. moving forward, the most important thing to do first, is pop to your local fish shop and get them to test the new water. is safe to add to. if it has cycled speak to them about what to put in i would steer away from neons even if recommended sadly these once hardy fish are often over bred by fishfarmers and are genetically weak the same is true of guppies. with just 30 litres to play with your pretty limited. dont take offence to that im used to dealing with 1000s of gallons daily. and have over 500 litres in my room which i consider small in any event. i would also get your tap water tested, just because its good to drink doesnt make it fish safe and there is alot more to that than just chlorine tapsafe doesnt do anything but nutralise chlorine and bind heavy metals it can stil be full of disolved organics of minerals that make is poor for fish keeping. if you find like many that the water is hard and dirty look into purchasing a drum of ro water from the shop very cheap and much much better. fish keeping is actually about keeping water, get that bit right and the rest is a doddle. i i were you i would look into amano style tanks, google it :) bogwood pices and plants are great, you could buy a lovely piece of anubus attached to the wood few other plants and a styrofoam background, job done. beautifull tank. dont go towards malawis you simply dont have the room in those 30 litres. i would stick to small fish like phantom tetra the bristle noses recommended and pencil fish for example perhaps a dwarf gorami, or a honey gorami. if you start to think marines is teh way forward for you then pm me we can chat on the phone as there is ALOT more to discuss and i can point you onto some good recources and get things moving for you. many things i actually have in stock second hand to get a marine tank up and running. anyways any questions feel free :) told you i had lots to say. il bang some pics up tomorrow of the things ive got upto for some inspiration :)
  17. I havent got time atm but I will bee back later with pics and lots of waffle. Dont get bsrbs or plecs plec is wayyyy to big and barbs will limit you too much :) speak later
  18. Just dont use it lol it will probally invalidate your insurance in any eveny simply backing off for the last 5/10 minutes of your drive will have the same effect if not better
  19. as said its feb mate, no money floating about times are hard for many. im just about hanging onto mine with the next few years its gonna be a fight keeping holda it fincially because of how i money needs to be spent. houses etc the general cost of living are a serious rape atm. when the economy starts to recover i think you will see prices rise also sports cars always sell far better in summer than winter. id love a swb tt manual but i already have a lwb tt that will soon be a manny so id end up loosing cash to "upgrade" no really a proposition atm lol
  20. My rears are 10.5 inch wide fit fine could get more between the arch and the rear restrictions
  21. You loose 20mph but when you ever gonna use 180mph
  22. have you looked at zed prices out there? they dont actually have tts as a matter of corse they werent offically imported there im led to believe. only n/a's! so all tt are import. we were looking at moving over there and i think we catually decided it would be cheaper to take the zed i currently have when you take into account the money you will loose selling and the money you need to purchase a new one...
  23. have you driven your zed at night yet dave?
  24. right after trawling and asking onthe us site i finally got to the bottom of this. there is a single hose that runs off the oil tree feeds to a hard line on the subframe then a flexi into the oil cooler the returns via the same method to the sump pan, via the smaller diameter hose on the drivers side. so whilst mine isnt plumbed in as factory its still doing the correct thing. the oil cooler runs in tandam with the oil circulation the block you can if you wish wind out the standard take off for the cooler instal a sandwhich plate with a thermostatic switch as per z1s kit to run a full flow version where all the oil is cooled by the cooler not 50% and more oil is pumped through the block. i think what i will do is pull out all the oem 20 year old tangle and re run the lines directly. i may even utilise the hard lines from the autobox when i do the manny conversion.

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