Stephen

ok well i cannnnn get around 30mpg on a motorway/dual carrageway cruise. (we dont have any motorways in dorset) i would say on adverage i get around 20mpg it WILL drop into single figures should you decide to boot it. as for insurance shop round ALOT more im 26 im currently paying £700 normal car insurance and have had a classic policy quote of less than £150 you will need a daily driver to get an insurance policy like that however. mine is a twin turbo model so they are a little juicer round town but better on a run, also you may even find it cheaper to insure a tt. its cheaper for me to insure the zed than a fiesta! statistics friend. where about do you live? na are alot easier to get your head round mechanically and do tend to be more reliable.

obviously stuff like this can happen by accident, but checking those clamps really will help. also carrying a fire extinguisher could have stopped this before it go so bad, i remember hearing about a chap who had this happen on his cortina, and because he had no extinguisher he just had to sit there and watch it burn obviously the engine is gonna get damaged but it may be the differnce of tarting the engine back up and a total loss. its law on the continent but hands up how many of you dont own one or worse still own one but its not in the car!

you have pm

have you removed the speed resistor from when it used jap clocks? it may well be a fault in the printed circuit board on the back? im guessing there. however, you can easily disasemble the clocks and pop them in so it may well be work popping the uk speedo out of the cluster putting it in the jap spec cluster. im not sure if that can work, but its worth having a look into. im sure somebody said to me if your rough with the cluster it ****s them up.

been looking at these spacers they are not the full hub centric ones rather ones with a bore size and longer studs which is obvioulsy better than the simple slid eon type but not full on hibcentric. i prefer this idea for the pure reason that the actual bolts that are holding your wheels to the hub are easily inpected. no removing the wheel to check. my only reservation is the strength of the stud itself supplied with this kit. opinions please guys? should i use a differmt set of studs? the 15mm on these is a perfect size for me. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hubcentric-Wheel-Spacer-Kit-16mm-Nissan-200SX-240SX-S14-S15-5-x-114-PCD-66-1mm-/280838623315?pt=UK_Cars_Parts_Vehicles_Wheels_tyre_Trims_Trims_ET&hash=item4163495053

i understand how to fit them in terms of the actual fitting vac pipes etc.. but what has to be done to them in terms of setting them up.

how you finding them i had read good reviews

what discs did you use? and what of this price you speak lol

3k? sounds a bit ominous bud as above that little list will really get things a littel clearer. tbh if a mechanic was telling me it was running on 4 odd id be wanting to know which two. bit vauge? he should be able to tell you which ones are working and which arnt. i wuld assume that the belt has gone on slightly wrong. leak down etc as suggested will reveal a hell of alot more.

Thats what I mean engine timing rather than ignition timing

Could me sensor or timing related it needs hooking up to conzult or simular.

The rim diameter has no effect on ride height, as the overall/rolling diameter is the same.

Get some more pics up murmur its a good looking car

5x100 wouldnt fit either mate z are 5x114 the 350z rays will fit, but the standard tyres your speedo will be out.

It makes sense when you think of it. The offset of 0 means dead centre mounting face, so if you pull that back back in toeards the car causing negartive offset. Opposite flr positive.

If this was in the uk all the 200sx bummers, would be moaning and slating the 300zx

we did admiral it was wayyyyyyyy expensive get the van insured properly then get a classic policy for the zed pron cost you about £200 for the year

didnt you go for pzeros dave? thats what ive got on the rear they wear like a dick! they need changing now only got like 3 mm left and theyre not that grippy anymore.

i would like to see some quater mile times with na vs tt rears and stock vs chip and boost etc. realistically whats gonna be quicker a chipped standard tt or a non chipped one with an na rear end. i would expect if your running like 16 psi with an na rear end you will spend most of 0 to 40 spinning up? loosing accelration and therefore time?

http://www.300zxclub.com/showthread.php?t=186988 here are jim

i believe he means the small button attached to the base of the shifter that allows you to pull it out of park with aflat battery. as for the falut im not sure sorry. i will have a fully working autobox up for sale soon though should you need one.

manual conversions arnt hard just long winded. and in reguards to teh hicas leak, the hicas and power steering are the same source of fluid so both need to be investigated. if it leaks at standstill the its probally on the low pressure side of things ie the felxible stuff. rtaher than the metal ended ones. if it only leaks with the engine on then its likly the opposite. best thing to do is look for the red droplets. or areas of gunk. common failure points are the front seal of the p/s pump, the high pressure line at the bottom of the engine(the metal corrodes) the join between the pas pot feed and the pump, lots of heat and movement i suppose takes its toll. mine was actually leaking from the o rings under the feed tbe that feeds both halves of the pump. hth

FRIDAY? its only monday now. im very tempted to have my zed machine polished blah blah at some point to really set it off, but im guessing if hes having it for 4 days hes going t be cahrging a fair whack?

Whoops!

yes! do it!!! little birdy tells me you can do a vh45 transplant for less than £3500? that tickle your tastebuds?