Stephen

lol all in due time bud, i know gaz is very busy atm and im on the cusp of putting lots of hours into my own zed. however the good news is phil is back in the uk lol. seehow it goes may have some time over the bankh holiday get a few of us together.

as boldy said im pretty sure they are more or less identical apart from the extended area for the left hand drive. i think from memory of what i was redaing there are one or two connections not required that would have been used in the us market for la emmission controls.

i would look at around 7k beautifull car. it should go for around 10 but realitically in this market... i beleive sudesh sold a very simular car for around 8k i hope this helps and of corse it is only my opinion.

this thread is useless without pictures! lol

right so after some measuring and thinking and the help here ive decided that 15mm hubcentrics upfront would be ideal. i would ideally like to pop 5mm spacers on the rear, i had a pair knocking about that where fitted to the car when i brought it. i popped these on yesterday and measured a bit to work out how much thread was contained within the wheel nut 15mm so i guess thats pretty good. however i would prefer to have ones with a central lip so i can maintain what we were discussing about the centre bore supporting the wheel not the nuts and studs. obviously a spigot ring wont help, because of teh spacer. so can you get a spacer like the first i posted up but only 5mm? as obviously a full huncentric is not feasable or necessary.... any thoughts?

No but I think the seats in them are yuck lol

luvery, i spy with my little eye a yellow zed aswel?

so the kind with their own studs and a centre bore? like the ones gonzo put up?

sorry which arent we supose dto use im getting lost now...

I think my wheels have the stud recesses. Its quite difficult to find hubcentrics under 20mm. But yeah pm me marty, they top notch?

link? will they fit at only 15mm? or will the studs hang out and foul on the wheel mounting face?

well you say that dave but therein bailey are a pretty well known brand in the ford scene i know some people dont valuve the input of that scence but there are plently of cosworth yb engined cars out there running over 600 bhp and a fair few relitivly running close to if not over 1000. so theres plently of development and space for high end builds.

ok well i cannnnn get around 30mpg on a motorway/dual carrageway cruise. (we dont have any motorways in dorset) i would say on adverage i get around 20mpg it WILL drop into single figures should you decide to boot it. as for insurance shop round ALOT more im 26 im currently paying £700 normal car insurance and have had a classic policy quote of less than £150 you will need a daily driver to get an insurance policy like that however. mine is a twin turbo model so they are a little juicer round town but better on a run, also you may even find it cheaper to insure a tt. its cheaper for me to insure the zed than a fiesta! statistics friend. where about do you live? na are alot easier to get your head round mechanically and do tend to be more reliable.

obviously stuff like this can happen by accident, but checking those clamps really will help. also carrying a fire extinguisher could have stopped this before it go so bad, i remember hearing about a chap who had this happen on his cortina, and because he had no extinguisher he just had to sit there and watch it burn obviously the engine is gonna get damaged but it may be the differnce of tarting the engine back up and a total loss. its law on the continent but hands up how many of you dont own one or worse still own one but its not in the car!

you have pm

have you removed the speed resistor from when it used jap clocks? it may well be a fault in the printed circuit board on the back? im guessing there. however, you can easily disasemble the clocks and pop them in so it may well be work popping the uk speedo out of the cluster putting it in the jap spec cluster. im not sure if that can work, but its worth having a look into. im sure somebody said to me if your rough with the cluster it ****s them up.

been looking at these spacers they are not the full hub centric ones rather ones with a bore size and longer studs which is obvioulsy better than the simple slid eon type but not full on hibcentric. i prefer this idea for the pure reason that the actual bolts that are holding your wheels to the hub are easily inpected. no removing the wheel to check. my only reservation is the strength of the stud itself supplied with this kit. opinions please guys? should i use a differmt set of studs? the 15mm on these is a perfect size for me. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hubcentric-Wheel-Spacer-Kit-16mm-Nissan-200SX-240SX-S14-S15-5-x-114-PCD-66-1mm-/280838623315?pt=UK_Cars_Parts_Vehicles_Wheels_tyre_Trims_Trims_ET&hash=item4163495053

i understand how to fit them in terms of the actual fitting vac pipes etc.. but what has to be done to them in terms of setting them up.

how you finding them i had read good reviews

what discs did you use? and what of this price you speak lol

3k? sounds a bit ominous bud as above that little list will really get things a littel clearer. tbh if a mechanic was telling me it was running on 4 odd id be wanting to know which two. bit vauge? he should be able to tell you which ones are working and which arnt. i wuld assume that the belt has gone on slightly wrong. leak down etc as suggested will reveal a hell of alot more.

Thats what I mean engine timing rather than ignition timing

Could me sensor or timing related it needs hooking up to conzult or simular.

The rim diameter has no effect on ride height, as the overall/rolling diameter is the same.

Get some more pics up murmur its a good looking car