Stephen

Bumparoo

Toying with it...

As Pete said different tyres for different things, different priorities. You will notice the big wrinkle wall tyres on drag cars, the idea being to soften the shock of launch and to allow the tyre to make the maximum contact patch, the aim of the game is maximum grip off the line. For track cars you will notice much stiffer sidewalls, this helps to maintain the car through the corners, you'd soon have issues going round track on wrinkle walls. The compound and tread pattern also differ. Then there's compromises, track day road legals & road legal drag radials. I tell you what though you won't see many Motorsport focused cars with 30 silly little rubber bands, that's a fashion thing that people have become preoccupied with.

Hi guys, sorry I've been a bit slack last month. Very busy times. I've been thinking about meets and locations etc, this has brought up a little idea. So let's have your feed back and get it right. There are a fair few members round the wider Portsmouth area, as well as this side of the forest. So it only seems fair to try to give you guys the opportunity for a localish meet. I'm also aware that not everyone wants to stand in a carpark and talk to strangers. So I propose the following... A session of Go karting this would include two 15 minute races, this allows us to mingle in a less in your face format and trade sober be else's paint. Plus the fact EVERY petrol head loves Go Karts. There is a company called, Team-sport go karting that have two tracks in that rough area Eastleigh and Gosport. There is also another company Go set in Totton, there other two tracks look better IMO. The Team sport website is here, so have a look and let me know; http://www.team-sport.co.uk/mobile/track-locations/southampton/ Now obviously this could work up an apatite, maybe some thirst so it would be sensible to cruise on out to a country pub and grab a bite to eat etc, this is where I could do with sone local input. Obviously once we get some more solid details we can start discussing dates. So anyway, discuss and let's get this cracking. Two meets for the sake of one what's not to like.

You should be a dab hand and getting cylinders to start working again by now lol.

My view is we should aim to be a club and a forum second, however that isn't easy. I know a lot of members feel they don't have anything to contribute, but as Brian said it's a discussion board. That means your ideas an opinions are invited. Even if it's just to say you like or dislike something. What we have over FB clubs, is a solid club not just a thrown together group. Things like the 25th anniversary are indicative and spot on with what we need. It's a shame that Zfest doesn't get more attention, were short of z specific shows. Most if us are here to enjoy a club and enjoy all that comes with it, some however view it as a cash generation scheme. I'm not talking about sponsors, we need those. I'm talking about the people who constantly find their car is full if rust so are "forced" to break. This sort of back door trading isn't positive. That's a different topic I suppose.

Moan.

Got the damn drive shafts unbolted from the diff at last, today. A 14mm ring spanner and a lump hammer made for a nice impact wrench haha, which broke them free, then a 14mm ratchet spanner finished the job nicely. Ive decide the leave the damn ball joints till the drive shafts are out, that way I can get free access with a 22mm socket which is much better, less slip, less likely to round nuts off etc. Sadly one of the lower arm bolts is banna'd slightly, so that wont come out willingly. Angle grinder will soon destroy that issue though, a new polybush is less than a tenner from driftworks so no biggie. Anyway im essentially down to the diff in the subframe, now nothing but one bolt holding in the passenger side lower arm. :D

The yanky boys use the stock 16" rear for drag racing, which is the same as the UK spec rears. Allows for plenty of sidewall, sidewall flex reduces wheelspin.

Ahh ok. Removing the drive shafts is proving to be a pain as well as I can't lock up the diff it just turns.

Did you press them in yourself? How did you stop the joint turning to undo the nut?

In just guessing, modern cars tend to use more Ali don't they. If it's silver in colour it's possibly Ali. That looks nice and tidy under there Si.

I got the halfords medium which is an ultra tight fit, my theory was it would run less as it can't move about as much. Does leave the bottom half of the rear bumper exposed. Wayyyy better than that silly half cover I got off ebay.

I notice there's a c clip on the ball joint, I'd go disconnect it but the chicken are asleep next to my tool box and I've just cracked open a carling.

The driftworks stuff is orange, orange... Dunno Si this 911 was spankers, no one had taken it apart to paint it. It was actually likely aluminium :)

Yes, in terms of sheer grip off the line a tyre to big for the rim will reduce the contact patch, similarly beyond a certain width it's rubber for rubber, the weight of the car over the contact patch becomes the limiting factor or the amount if grip exceedes the power than can be applied. Becoming more complicated, for grip throughout the corners too much tyre throws the car off balance applying force to the wrong areas and decreasing the useful part of the contact area. Then moving into really fast driving, too much rubber may not allow the car to reach the effective heat range for grip. The simple thought of whacking a tyre wider tan dawn French on gives you ultimate grip is actually pretty flawed.

Satin black, was my first thought... But I'm warming to a Matt silver actually, saw a 911 like yesterday looked very clean and tidy

Right I've decided to start getting the underside of my car upto a bit more mischief potential. I started by buying a rear subframe assembly off Jaffa, all polybushed with some extras. So here the assembly as it arrived, I say arrived but that makes it sound easy. Jaffa wrestled it off his car onto his trailer drive it down to sunny bournemouth from bath, and we about 6 of us in total spent the next hour hoofing around some altogether heavier, that's his story though. Now I'm going to strip it down clean it up and give it a lick of pain, etc. Started stripping it down, having some trouble with the lower arm ball joint. What's the procedure with these buggers, it just spins now. Are replacents DIY able or does it require a press etc.

They ain't rich cos they give it away bud, they rich stay rich. Don't worry that Maserati will be worth about as much as a wet fart in 3 years time, they depreciate like crap. Love the grand tourismo's which are now becoming affordable.

Ahhhh ok, disregard then. Had it in my head you were converting.

There's a few generic diagrams but the rats nest of vac lines can become confusing. Get some fairy and mix up some as if you were making bubble juice for kids. Paint it on gently so as not to froth it, to the area you think it may be coming from, where it's leaking will throw up bubbles. A very clear and easy way to pin point those pesky little leaks.

For pin 44 neutral switch? It's from the main ECU bud.

Sadly yes, don't worry I've done the same thing twice. Very similar, dropped one of the rocker cover bolt into the block, got away with it both times, but a sweat few minutes ensued.

Pretty sure in yanky land they have squeezed an 11j under there without a wide arch.

Me too, she's picked up a few battle scars over the last 5 years. Stone chips and the like