Stephen

I noticed recently jeff said this was quite common. Anyway I fired the car up today and it made a horrific tapping noise, after starting to worry I started looking over the engine and discovered it was bottom end. More worried face. Then I pressed the clutch and it stopped, ah ha. After an inspection and a poke the starter has come loose. So I know the bottom fixing bolt was partly stripped on the gearbox female side. So, what's the best way to do it? Do I; 1. Pop the starter off the car, re drill the the holes on the starter to 12mm. Then tap the block at m12 and then install two studs and Locktye them in. 2. Same as above but use some m12 bolts. 3. Helicoil the box and refit the stock size bolts. Obviously without removing the box space isn't infinite, but it's by no means tight.

This^ You will be able to see where your leaking from and if it looses pressure without veiwable leaking it's likely loosing it to a cylinder, which if you've got the plugs out you will be able to tell.

The water pipes unbolt with some Allen heads and a bolt. 2 on the top pipe 3 on the lower. Your going to need to drain the coolant down and get some instant gasket as well. The back plate for the timing belt will still be in your way though...pull the plenum it's not that bad and you can delete and replace arces of coolant lines in the process. Why not do a cold compression test on the block before fixing the leak? At least you will know if it's proper fubar. The fuel relay needs to be removed to do the compression test so you won't have a fuel leak during this process. Hell you might even take the plugs out to find a cylinder with water in it.

Ahhhh, ok just thought you may have wanted a hand for a few hours.

The front water pipes have to come off as well I'm afraid.

Yes, those would be awesome even if they only lifted 2 feet.

Your not trying to push an auto in gear are you? I'm in hailsham on Wednesday night?

Doesn't the body lift straight off them? Fibreglass shell on a steel chassis?

Four year! God time does fly. I've got a bit of liking for the C63 AMG myself, the sound is immense. All the joys of a yank tank with the practically of a German for daily life. Il have to stick with the caddy for the time being lol.

I swear you only had the other one 20 minutes lol

Look like 17s don't they. Tbh, you can mess about with lowering springs all you wish but if you after that perfect stance you need proper height adjustable coilovers combined with suitable adjustable arms.

I detest orange, however in this instance it would suit the theme to be colour coded. Infact it would be rude to paint them anything else. - - - Updated - - - What paint did you use on them?

Think il pop down tomorrow take some pics.

http://www.turbodynamics.co.uk/shop/4665415001s-new-genuine-ball-bearing-turbo-for-nissan-200sx-p-1909.html Obviously you would need two, and to piss about with them.

Rebuilds and second hand turbos often don't last long :( My he factory turbos are tbh a bit naff. They are tiny, they're old fashioned and they aren't very strong. I can't blame you for wanting to ditch them this time, I'am in the same boat. Any of the small tubs are very similar, the popular gt525 kit z1 produce for example. It's still that same dinosaur journal bearing design, albeit larger with a slightly better real seal design. So your looking for a bearing turbo that will fit. My choice is going to be the gt2560r, sold by z1 as the gt600r kit. To buy without the z1 kit they are about £550 a side. Cheap enough, but they need a conversion kit, clicking etc so not exactly straight forward.

Because you have money to burn and get bored easy because your spoilt? Or because your not loaded, paid for it on credit cards and now HAVE to sell it? There the most common two reasons if were honest.

Hi, my dad had an rx8 the 231hp one. It had all the optional extras full factory aero kit etc, he drove that car back and forth from bournemouth to derby every week and regularly through France. It was reliable but very thirsty often as bad as 16mpg on average low 20s at best and having worked on it for him it was a bit poorly made tbh. I raced it a few times and walked by it every time, I've raced the lower spec one as well which was truthfully poor. Onto zeds, your not going to gain a lot in fuel economy at best you could get 30 to the gallon out of it, it's more likely you will get 25 on a long cruise. Round town significantly less. When it breaks which it will eventually unless you buy one with a lot spent on it parts arnt cheap or easy to get your mits on. Mechanics than will or are experienced are far and few between. Don't get me wrong it's a strong 3l v6 but it's also upto 25 years old, it's verging on a classic car. If you want a daily z the z33 aka the 350z is about a grand more to buy but much more modern and reliable for everyday use. Also being non turbo it's less complex. Sure it's not as tunable or fast out the box but it's a better daily driver. Lots of research to be done. If you really want Japan's orginal super coupe then dive in they are awesome. Be prepared to spend a few quid though, bargain ones are few and far between.

Is this rattle cans or a compressor?

Just to highlight this as well, screamer pipes are different althogether. They vent the air from the Wastegate to astmosphere bypassing the exhaust. So that air is unsilenced and unmuffled etc, ie attracts Johnny law. Doing it on a zed is also slightly odd as they have turbos with internal wastegates, meaning it's part of the turbo not a seperate device. So whilst you can do it, it's a bodge and air will exscape before boost is built. The noise is subjective too.

Sat on a sofa looking across a valley with a cuppa tea in otterham Cornwall, near bude.

Atmospheric dumps are bad for engine health and are an old fashioned way to do the job, especially when combined with a map sensor system such as ours. A recirc is always better. I know the dumps I've got are a bad idea, I recon my engine will die of abuse first though lol. Once I've had a rebuild il switch them out.

Did you read the post Andrew put up from Greg?

Personally I'd spend a whole week ripping useless crap and cables out that car hoping that the money I got from selling it all would help respray it. It could be a bloody nice car at present though it's not too my tastes. It's pretty restrictive in its market because of its styling.

The whole thing, before after and during.

Yes and no, I think that's an old fashioned thing before recircs were much cop or even fitted in the main. A properly functional recircs will keep the turbo spinning through the gear shift and this in turn reduces lag and lessens the chance of loosing the boost mid change. They are FAR superior hence why you will never see a modern super car hissing down the road.