Stephen

Nothing broke that's always a damn good sign, glad to gearbox went ok.

Working on assumption and what I do know, as I've not done this job myself yet. You should have 3 pipes associated with the hicas. A feed from the rear of the powersteering pump to the hicas rear steering rack, a return from the rack to the solenoid and a return from the rack to the pas resivoir pot. So to bypass it all, you should require to take the feed from pump that goes to the rack and short it to the return to the pot. This is then just cycling fluid round as a loop. I would defiantly expect to loose some fluid and bleeding it only seems sensible really.

Is there much weight to be lost gutting the tailgate bob? I have intentions to cut all the unnecessary metal out the tailgate. As far as I'm aware there isn't really any structural benefit to the tailgate itself. Ie binning it completely would make the overall chassis flex anymore. The only thing I would wish to do, which you probably had no interest in is retain all the plastic trim etc. So it's as light as possible but still looks stock.

Have you held the stock wing? Incredibly light, I'd be surprised if saved enough weight to offset a mc Donald's. The tailgate as far as I'm aware isn't what many think it is...correct me if I'm wrong but it's only a section that pops into the oem tailgate, so again you won't save much and much like a tub it fills with water. ;) a Perspex rear window would be better, I'd go that route myself but don't want to loose the heated rear screen.

Sorted, after inspection I found the top one whilst a little loose was fine, the bottom however was completely stripped. So I sorted out a longer bolt for the top. The bottom I took a 10mm drill bit and ran that down the old stripped thread, there was actually enough room to do this with my drill, spot on, (There wouldn't be enough space to do the top one in this fashion.) tapped it at m12x1.75. I then used a depth gauge to gauge the material thickness of the box and the starter motor, 20mm and 15mm respectively. Then shortened the Allen head bolt to 35mm the 2mm thick washer helps to stop the bolt popping out the back. Obviously I had to open up the slot on the starter to accept the new bolt, a set of files soon sorted that. So that's it done... The Allen head bolt makes getting the starter on and off much easier, being nurled it's nice and easy to wind in. Next time the box is out il do the upper one I think just for symmetry.

Ok that's good to know, tbh I think il pull the block for my new tubs anyways, being bigger space might be a PITA. Always good to know, having done some work up the recently it spiked my curiosity.

Fantastic idea mate!

Agreed it's dreadful to navigate

7psi is what's known as safety boost, it restricts boost level to prevent engine damage after seeing knock signals or bad connections to the knock sensor. You can run your ecu codes, I expect you will get code 34. There's a how to on that in the teq section. Once you've identified that as the issue you can work out wether it's the connections/loom fix it and reset the ecu to clear the code, or is the sensor itself is junk you have three options because it's in a god awful place, fit a resistor inline, fit a new one in an easier the access location as a temporary fix or dig the engine bay apart to fix it. Conversely it might be working and telling you there's an issue, with the car being new to you and of an unknown I would recommend doing a boost leak test and inspecting the coil pack and injector connections for corrosion, it's also worth having a look at the plug condition. 12psi should net you about 330hp if it's all working correctly with a generic chip, a lot of them art much cop though so be very careful and keep an ear out for detonation, ideally if it's all an unknown it would be a good shout to get a rolling road to look at it and assess your air fuel ratios etc to see it's running safely. Oh and ditch the short shifter, change the gearbox oil for some quality stuff line redline 99 and the shifting problem will disappear.

7psi is what's known as safety boost, it restricts boost level to prevent engine damage after seeing knock signals or bad connections to the knock sensor. You can run your ecu codes, I expect you will get code 34. There's a how to on that in the teq section. Once you've identified that as the issue you can work out wether it's the connections/loom fix it and reset the ecu to clear the code, or is the sensor itself is junk you have three options because it's in a god awful place, fit a resistor inline, fit a new one in an easier the access location as a temporary fix or dig the engine bay apart to fix it. Conversely it might be working and telling you there's an issue, with the car being new to you and of an unknown I would recommend doing a boost leak test and inspecting the coil pack and injector connections for corrosion, it's also worth having a look at the plug condition. 12psi should net you about 330hp if it's all working correctly with a generic chip, a lot of them art much cop though so be very careful and keep an ear out for detonation, ideally if it's all an unknown it would be a good shout to get a rolling road to look at it and assess your air fuel ratios etc to see it's running safely.

Being a grown up sucks doesn't it, there's always work to be done.

I notice the steering rack is detached there as well, is the frame dropped or just the main shaft disconnected?

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/forumdisplay.php?170-Turbonoz

Why not go see Noel, he's in the midlands and will sort it good and proper.

No, no AFR or timings were taken. It was just a rollor session. I might be wrong he might have had another since.

I had the Bosch one and it was fine, till I cooked it haha. I purchased a replacement from halfords with my trade card which made it pretty cheap :)

If I'm thinking correctly that was the last dyno run jimmer did with it, it was gonna make more but they backed off as it was starting to det, unfortunately there was no AFR reading taken. So it will blatantly go north of 500.

I saw one of those come up for sale here on the club, the centre section was missing though.

It very may well be those wheels used to be on my car lol.

Exactly, 5+ hours each way is a long journey to just spectate or turn spanners, I do a lot if miles each week for work I don't really fancy jamming another 600 miles into things.

You often don't accrue any NBC on a classic policy, but hell mines just over £150 so who cares.

There is a silver one at Haynes motor museum and the stock car is quite something considering it's age as well, it's massive for starters.

I think reading between posts we've got quite similar builds on the go dan. I haven't started the big stuff yet, it's all chassis and simplification till I've paid for the wedding.

Me likey.

Diffs the r200 short nose 4.08 in an na. Apparently it's the rb25 engined cars apparently, tbh the box has a few wear and year issues but overall it's no chocolate box. You don't hear about people having to rebuild the box to cope with 500hp A few of the guys use K&N and HKS and tbh that seems fine, oem is cheap readily available and that's all good by me. As for swapping out for a turbo motor, I wouldn't worry about that straight away. It's brings complications, the NAs are pretty tough esp considering your intentions, I'm guessing aswel being at uni the budget isn't endless, staying NA keeps down costs, less to break and less to fix.