Stephen

On second look, the CAS does look normally positioned. I couldn’t see the right hand of the slot till I zoomed in.

Check the connections around the PTU and CAS, the boots on your PTU are damaged so it wouldn’t shock me if the pins were corroded etc. You’ve changed stuff around here so that would be my focus, especially the hot PTU description, did it come with an adapter harness? If I remember correctly it’s not a straight swap. The CAS also looks like it’s slammed over, do you put back in the position it came out from?

Not a given but a start; Blue Smoke, combusted oil. Grey Smoke, Uncombusted oil (turbo rear seals) White smoke, condensation/coolant. Black smoke, over fueling. Turbo smoke if it’s the classic rear seal failure these ones get, is a grey smoke that occurs on warm idle. Did you actually drive the car or just run it up?

Hi Dennis, sorry if this reads a little blunt. Go and google it and you’ll find lots of photos of how the body is constructed. It’s pretty much the same as any other Nissan model of that era. There’s plenty of videos of people cutting them open, apart, off etc especially on similar models like the S Chassis. At the end of the day you are the one spending the money and the one who has to sleep at night, so it’s best to do that research yourself rather than listen to one person on the internet. Have you asked the owner for better photos? The one shown is a big blurry and doesn’t focus on the area that concerns you. If I was worried about that that’s exactly what I’d do, ask for more information. Maybe take those pictures to a body shop local to you and ask. I have no idea about the car you are looking at, its price or anything the seller has to say about it. It is however a car that likely over 35 years old and has been half way to the moon. It’s incredible it’s still rolling let alone in good shape. It wouldn’t concern me but that’s me.

The front has a cross member, style arrangement that boots across the bottom between strut towers. The back is an actual sub frame. The body, those rails are structural but complex. It’s multiple layers of sheet material. I did have a google but couldn’t see what I was looking for, a cross sectional view of the body.

That’s the frame rail. Positioned about a foot in from the edge. The front third is a piece of sheet steel. It gets used as the jack point often. Looks like the rail has been nicked by a jack at some stage. Would not worry me at all tbh. Apart from I’d want to check that corrosion hadn’t occurred because of the steel being exposed.

Gosh haven’t seen one of those for a while.

Do they ever? I really should have taken my car elsewhere this year.

Is that for JDM spec cars? Thought UK was different?

It may be worth sitting on it till spring if you can? The market for cars like these, which lets face it are toys really is poor at this time of year. You’ll probably get more money and messed around less…

Thanks guys.

NA and TT engines have the same crank so that should widen your search. Might be worth giving Jimmer at Powerzed a call as he may have one or know someone with one from a different engine build that was unrequired etc. At least you’ll know that it’s a part within spec as well.

I was about to ask what was wrong with it when I quickly looked at the photos on my phone, then zoomed in. Looks like it’s been stored in the sea!

I’ve saved your number.

I don’t currently have the ability to PM as I’m not a subscribed member I’m afraid. Pricing my car is hard which is why I’d be happy to discuss whether it fits your need/budget.

Mines not actively for sale as I went to MOT it and it failed on some nonsense, my fault for not preparing things tbh. It fits your brief though. So we can talk about it maybe? Red. Manual. Twin Turbo. Build thread here.

How is your oil pressure? The hydraulic lifters can make a right racket if they aren’t behaving. You’ve also got the variable valve timing solenoids, they’re right down the back. When was the last time it had a service? Do you have a good service history?

Can you not unlock the boot and climb through? At least you can then pop the bonnet and charge it up.

There’s a number of plates/heat shields down there. I’d start by having a wobble test.

I remember seeing my first Z32, it looked massive, so wide. The size of that R35 next to one shows how much cars have swollen.

That’s how it should be yes, but the world we live in these days peoples lack of due diligence often seems to be someone, anyone else’s fault. Not even saying this occurred here but it does, the reviews people leave of products they buy are hilarious at times. I think you know me enough after all these years Jimmer that you’re aware I have enough respect to respect your judgment. What I was getting at is that if someone buys my car and six months later they’re moaning about some bit of rust they or I didn’t spot, want to disassemble half of it on my driveway before buying or a perspective buyer expects me to drive a five hour round trip for a report on a £10k~ car its not happening. But then I wouldn’t pretend mines perfect, it was never built to sell for profit or anything of the like, it was built for my enjoyment.

Oh I still live around that area, I’m just not there currently, always on the road. We’re still in the bungalow but planning on a move to a bigger house in the same village as we need more space, with two kids now and I could do with a double garage. Awkward stage as I transferred the business into a limited company as it’s grown and I need more history in my books for the mortgage stuff.

Makes me home sick those photos!

I do agree with your sentiments but equally it actually puts me off putting mine on the market. Whilst these cars have increased in value they aren’t commanding larger sums, the idea of tyre kickers on steroids that want professional reports and to take half the thing apart looking for faults fills me with dread. Not because I’m trying to hide things but because of the aggro. It’s a barrier to selling a 35 year old car that I’m just not interested in. You either want it or you don’t and it’s not a show piece concourse house price investment, it’s not new or nearly new, it’s a 35 year old second hand car, there’s always an element of the unknown and the idea of a potential buyer creating havoc or coming back in 6 months time to say they found rust somewhere. I’m talking myself out of selling as we speak!

If the stock boost gauge is what you’re looking at, it’s a bit optimistic. Check your ECU for safety boost. If you’re only making 7psi I’d not be surprised. My car runs on Baileys. At partial boost they chirp. That classic whoosh sound only occurs when I’m on the boost properly.