Stephen

Isn't the sail part removable? I was under the impression you could interchange between swb and LWB by changing the sail and window but it's not a fun job. Maybe someone could clarify that?

Agreed I have actually found better economy at that kind of rev range you mention than a lower 2k rpm.

Most don't know this till some jobs worth books them, equally many don't realise that the old car derived van exemption is no longer golden and the gross payload is now relivent. Laws change regularly and you don't get a memo of this till it's too late.

Mine honestly isn't too bad. I can(or rather could, it's broken) get obscenely poor mpg, I've used quater of a tank on the way back from the in laws in the past and it's not exactly far. Conversely Coventry meet this year I used about £60-70 quids worth for the whole round trip. I can't really remember or define if going manual has increased fuel economy, I seem to remember that it is at higher rpm on the motorway post conversion. So much has changed though it's hard to pin point what the majour factor was. When I first got the car it wasn't running it's best, Cornwall and back we used about £130 worth of fuel, roughly 150 miles each way. I think tbh one if the worst things for fuel economy is poor mechanical health. Boost leaks and failing components.

Have you set the TPS up?

Agreed Pete the z32 is probably the only z model that the 2+2 doesn't completely ruin the roof line, most look like and extra six inches has been welded in without any thought. There are a few swb z31 about like literally a few arnt there, that very smart black one that was a zclub member springs to mind. I'm not saying I love them just they can look good and are very much a bargain Z.

The z31 is to the z32 what the z33 is to z34. Vast improvements of each other, IMO anyway. It's not overly pretty inside or out and whilst this sound silly it's extremely 80s. Ok, what I mean by that is that it's a bit gimmicky it shows it's age with trying to be new (at the time) and disregarding what we all know, classy, classic and subtleness stands the test of time best. To defend the z31 though, they can look great. The S13 is a very popular car and Z31 with it's pop up lights looks like an S13 on roids. Not to mention that vg30et lump is actually quite tunable. It's a real bargain of a car still with average example still being worth about 40p and still something you rarely see. I've been tempted by one as a second toy, an all out weekend warrior more than once. Some well thought out mods....tell me no one likes these two...

Is there a way I can view those Japanese auctions in English?

Yeah I run 32 psi on all four with 225/45R18 and 265/35R18

Thats a very good point that's often over looked, when mine was auto I was able to pull away without braking traction on snow, on compacted snow!!! Manual even grass can be a bit slipply.

Welcome Stephen.

The take offs for the BOV are on the intercooler hard pipes not on the intercoolers themselves, so no.

Which bit do you want exactly? MJP will almost certainly be able to get one regardless.

Just proves that the cylinder is or is not holding pressure and points to where a loss if one exists is. As Groover says the only real way to say what's happened is disassemble it.

I do like the insignia. Nice choice Si. What's the interior like? My mate at work had one for a few weeks and really liked it despite a few niggles think it was the base model though so the interior was a bit meh.

Speculation I suppose. You could do a leak down then oil in the bore to force a seal, if it still leaks like a sieve then it's elsewhere. HG or valves and well with that recent event odds on, also from where the air leaks to let's you know a few things... That being said, you would have to pull off the upper timing belt cover and find each cylinders TDC manually because the cams will no longer be in time as such with a snapped belt. I'd want to know exactly what method they used to ascertain that is factually the case.

Didn't they stop fitting them in the boot after a certain year?

Is the compressor large enough? if it's too small it will escape before you have chance to create any pressure you don't need much just 5psi. Small leaks some soapy water is incredible as it bubbles up pinpointing things exactly but it sounds like you have a big leak.

That extra take off will be the Clutch booster vaccum supply, on factory manual cars it connects to vac tanks in the inner wing I believe. In a converted car just loop it round from here to the nipple on the booster. You will need a check valve inline to make it work, I nicked one from a primera in the scrap yard. You will likely find at present it's T'eed off the brake booster vac.

I expect the job was done, just badly or with inferior parts. You might get lucky, you might not. There is fortunately ways to tell how unlucky you have been. You could get your hands on an inspection camera, pop the plugs out and see what you can see on the piston crowns. You could also preform a leak down test to see what cylinders still hold pressure. Even turning it over with a socket on the crank could give you a degree of information.

Simply a cost cutting exercise. When you think about it how many turbo cars DO have an OEM boost gauge? Neither of my last two vans have had them, nor did many turbo cars I've driven or been in.

Not off the top of my head and I don't have any that arnt in use, the same bearing is used in the skylines turbos as well if that's any help. About 10mm does seem about right though. I didn't order them by size I ordered them by kit, the supplier sold me a full kit plus step gap rear seals and 360 thrust bearings. Have you started disassembling them yet?

Looks nice.

Many appologises Art, il send you a PM in a minute with my phone number. That way in future I can give you a quick text. Thankyou for sharing your pictures and I'm glad you enjoyed your trip. You do seem to be getting plenty of use out of the old beast which is always good to see.