Stephen

From what I understand changing the rears is a pointless exercise at that point. The r33 brembo ones are so similar to the Nissan ones that no gain is made other than being matching brembos. Retro fitting z33 rear brembos are a more complicated fit so I'm led to believe. Unless your adding huge 6 pot calipers upfront I wouldn't worry too much about the rear.

Cheers Si. Seriously considering retrofitting a resonator to my japspeed system rather than the X pipe. It will reduce peak Db and from what I understand make it more burble/throat rather than the top end rasp it currently produces.

So, what does define exhaust sound. How can two 2.5" systems sound so different? How can you "tune" or change that sound?

I see where your going but how are you going to get round the while square peg round hole issue? You will have to weld a joining piece that's round or it will never seal correctly.

"Back when men were men and didn't wear moisturiser and hand cream" for that generation there's a hell of a lot of hair product and perfume boyo's....:lol:

When I had the Capri I wanted one badly. Doesn't suit the zed so well

Cheers scot :)

Not it's not in the regional section, probably should be though. :blush:

Only hiccup I had today was getting the rear brake discs off, Nissan very helpfully added some 8mm threaded holes. These make disc removal a doddle except the bolts I had were shouldered making them about 10mm short of useful and they were all I had being housebound today. Easily solved though... Balls!!!

So made a quick adjustment this week, finally got my mits on a stock gear knob. Mondo is going to retrim it in due corse but a test fit shows how it nicely finishes the interior. Over the evenings I've been stripping the sub frame down, I couldn't logically remove it in one piece. Had some issues with the hub nuts but a borrowed snap-on impact driver solved that. This morning I finished ripping out the last bits. Just the fuel tank to come out now.

Was nice to meet you tom. Don't forget your always welcome to bring your family saloon along to zed meets be it jag or skyline :P haha

I did see this, this morning I thought you would start the thread which felt right. He defiantly had a good run.

Japspeed? Should still be able to use the cowl within some faffing, the bolts might not line up perfectly. Your oil cooler is already seperated? Why are you upgrading, cooling issues?

Window works well too lol.

Prffft, you really, really want to do that? Mines fully deleted and imagining refitting it...stuff that.

Is it? His build thread is here if anyone wants a read; http://www.300zxclub.com/showthread.php?t=168005&highlight=Single+turbo&page=4

Yup that hooligan of a zed lol

Yup bone stock vg30dett with a single turbo conversion. He is a member on 300zxclub.com, think he's has faster passes than that. Damn thing does wheelies.

Right so it's too early to jump to conclusions. It could be a faulty connection or a duff injector etc all of those need to be checked. A compression test will identify if you have compression and that may be the answer. However for the sake of an hour with a cup of tea and multimeter it's a road that has to be taken. Get the balance bar out the way. Then check the ohm resistance of the injector, check the coil pack and injector connectors for corrosion clean them up. Pull the plug and have a look at it, note it's appearance. Is it wet with fuel, gunked with out etc. Try swapping over the coil pack and plug to a known working cyl, see if the issue follows you or stays. Once you have clearly established you have both spark and fuel you know things should work. If they don't the missing piece if the puzzle is compression. Test it, you will want all 6 plugs out for this and the fuel relay. Note them all and look for abnormally low or big differences between cylinders. If you find that compression is the route cause, see if you can borrow a leak down tester this will tell you roughly where it's failed. It may be you don't need a full engine rebuild, HG failure or a damaged valve etc. Good luck. I expect you will find that one of those brittle old connectors is green as hell and causing the fault. Don't panic be logical.

I have a weird memory. I can't remember what happened this morning in many cases, however some stuff just sticks. Unfortunately I can't choose which bits I absorb.

That's because the restrictions on the production of dog food quality have changed. Something to do with a lesser degree of chalk used as a packaging/filling agent (yup pet foods full of loveliness, ash is a very populaur one) so it doesn't dry with that same high alkaline appearance. Useless fact.

Port, starboard....

Through inspection required on this, it could be a silly fault like as described, a cracked expansion tank, a dodgy rad cap or even a hose that's popped off. It could also be an early warning on something much worse, for example an overheating issue where the coolant is being forced in there beyond it's capacity, you wouldn't know either because the stock tempreture gauge is a three stage affair. Cold, normal, overheating it doesn't represent a linear rise and fall. Not to mention is not very accurate. Inspect the tank, rad cap and for other coolant leaks ASAP. If you have the facility pressure test the coolant system. If nothing obvious then progress on to get a proper tempreture under driving conditions via conzult etc.

Yeah seem that before. Seems to be a bit of an issue.

I'm suspecting photoshop here too. Those rear lights are massive!!