Stephen

I did see this, this morning I thought you would start the thread which felt right. He defiantly had a good run.

Japspeed? Should still be able to use the cowl within some faffing, the bolts might not line up perfectly. Your oil cooler is already seperated? Why are you upgrading, cooling issues?

Window works well too lol.

Prffft, you really, really want to do that? Mines fully deleted and imagining refitting it...stuff that.

Is it? His build thread is here if anyone wants a read; http://www.300zxclub.com/showthread.php?t=168005&highlight=Single+turbo&page=4

Yup that hooligan of a zed lol

Yup bone stock vg30dett with a single turbo conversion. He is a member on 300zxclub.com, think he's has faster passes than that. Damn thing does wheelies.

Right so it's too early to jump to conclusions. It could be a faulty connection or a duff injector etc all of those need to be checked. A compression test will identify if you have compression and that may be the answer. However for the sake of an hour with a cup of tea and multimeter it's a road that has to be taken. Get the balance bar out the way. Then check the ohm resistance of the injector, check the coil pack and injector connectors for corrosion clean them up. Pull the plug and have a look at it, note it's appearance. Is it wet with fuel, gunked with out etc. Try swapping over the coil pack and plug to a known working cyl, see if the issue follows you or stays. Once you have clearly established you have both spark and fuel you know things should work. If they don't the missing piece if the puzzle is compression. Test it, you will want all 6 plugs out for this and the fuel relay. Note them all and look for abnormally low or big differences between cylinders. If you find that compression is the route cause, see if you can borrow a leak down tester this will tell you roughly where it's failed. It may be you don't need a full engine rebuild, HG failure or a damaged valve etc. Good luck. I expect you will find that one of those brittle old connectors is green as hell and causing the fault. Don't panic be logical.

I have a weird memory. I can't remember what happened this morning in many cases, however some stuff just sticks. Unfortunately I can't choose which bits I absorb.

That's because the restrictions on the production of dog food quality have changed. Something to do with a lesser degree of chalk used as a packaging/filling agent (yup pet foods full of loveliness, ash is a very populaur one) so it doesn't dry with that same high alkaline appearance. Useless fact.

Port, starboard....

Through inspection required on this, it could be a silly fault like as described, a cracked expansion tank, a dodgy rad cap or even a hose that's popped off. It could also be an early warning on something much worse, for example an overheating issue where the coolant is being forced in there beyond it's capacity, you wouldn't know either because the stock tempreture gauge is a three stage affair. Cold, normal, overheating it doesn't represent a linear rise and fall. Not to mention is not very accurate. Inspect the tank, rad cap and for other coolant leaks ASAP. If you have the facility pressure test the coolant system. If nothing obvious then progress on to get a proper tempreture under driving conditions via conzult etc.

Yeah seem that before. Seems to be a bit of an issue.

I'm suspecting photoshop here too. Those rear lights are massive!!

I think the thoery is of cooling issues. The water pipe flashing is awful on these engines done worse than others so the rear cylinders get hotter than they should esp once you start ramping up the boost. Don't quote me on it but I think the plenum has an odd shape runner back there too, meaning it's more restricted than the others. Excess heat plus poor breathing, recipe for disaster esp once you throw in 25 years of aging, a crappy generic chip and some failing components/poor maintenance. Not saying that's YOUR particular issue, just generally. Interestingly mine failed on cyl 3. I know a chap with a collection of blocks, not one has the same cyl failed. Six is the most probe to failure but it's not always the fail point. "Today, 02:55 Noz, sorry, haven't got that far yet, I'll let you know. Rich" Does that mean you haven't done a compression, if so what leads you to the conclusion it's failed?

No likely no lighty.

Haha! Looks like a proper. It's a shame nissan didn't make that section from aluminium.

How did you produce that?

Er, did anyone like, mention helf and saftie mate? Surely there should be a guard at least over the rotating core, you wouldn't run a lathe like that...otherwise interesting stuff. Sorry I didn't tb yesterday gaz had a day of it.

Mine was a daily when I first got it. Rather uncivil by when it broke as fixing it can take time. Much prefer having it as a toy now.

Have you confirmed that? So many are supposedly later cars and turn out to be early ones.

Odd I'm not the only one who had that UK JDM difference lodged in the brain it's been mentioned many times on here. Anyways at least that's cleared it up. Decat away.

It should pass the emission limits regardless should it not? And that doesn't appear to take into account the presence of the cat? As lack of presence can be a fail in certain scenarios. I was always told for uk cars pre 93 and JDM 95 we were fine. Is this incorrect?

To clarify that JDM cars that are pre 95 are fine to decat legally. I posted that before you asked about uk cars. Afaik uk cars are on the database so therefore it's only upto 93 you get away with it, grey imports arnt on the database so are tested as precat. No tester has ever even mentioned it with mine.

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?161100-New-MOT-reg-for-checking-presence-of-catalytic-converter&highlight=cat