Stephen

True true, But where do you draw the line? I wouldn't really want to rebuild a top end and leave the bottom personally. I guess it's down to the £'s aspect really.

If the budgets there I'd pull the block, service it and pop it back in. Seriously, it would be worth it. Although the HG and lower plenum gaskets ain't cheap if you choose to pull the heads.

Agreed, I'd say neither of the badges help. I'd tint the centre section as well because they don't complement each other. I wouldn't choose them but you have so I think those things would make it look better.

Finally installed the aftermarket boost gauge through the firewall. Ditched the stero to accomdate it. Just need a little gauge plate now.

Your gonna have to pull the plenum, cam covers, timing covers, cam belt, cam sprockets, timing cover back plate, cams and lifters as it is.

I've seen those before, can't see why it wouldn't work, IF you can keep the valve closed to compress against it.

Yeah, sorted that some time ago. This leak appears to be coming from the actual targa behind the front end cap on the targa.

Cheers Jeff, I sealed the grommit and spoiler yesterday. Had lots of rain last night, happy to report the leaks stopped! Now I've just got a pesky leak that appears to come out the targa itself.

That 240 is beautiful.

My sore point is your offering a product, that you can't provide any information on and proclaiming it's a cost effective solution. I can't see how your maths works out there. Especially if your paying for labour. The photograph you used, has had its hicas removed, ps relocated, fuse box relocated, radiator relocated, intercoolers replaced for a front mount (expensive TDM one buy the looks of it) water pipes for rad modified. I wouldn't be surprised if the front wings had be modified to allow space. It's a long expensive list, especially if your paying someone else. Equally what materials are used? Assuming the manifolds are made of tubular steel, multiple tuning shops with R&D budgets have failed to make a tubular manifold for the Z32 they always fail from heat stress, even the inconnel ones failed. It's not a cheap easy option it's an expensive and long road for an avid tinkerer. You need more information to sell this product. I'm not deliberately being a dick, I'm just being honest. What your telling me doesn't add up. I'm all for innovation and ingenuity however put yourself in a buyers shoes, there's quite a few questions that require answering.

I'm not trying to poo poo your idea as I say. However forgive me when I say, you've got 4 posts to your name, 2 of which are on this thread and your offering a kit which you didn't design or have much information of for £700. On the basis of it making things cheaper. Your kit plus refurbed stock turbos and the necessary other work is going to put a pretty big dent in your wallet. A smaller dent would be made by some nice shinney new turbos. I think you need to provide more information than you are currently before being able to offer this for sale, at least for your own conversion to be complete.

Cheers for your help Jeff, the first one I can find quite quickly. The last one, which I assume would be your preferred choice seems pretty hard to find. Once I get the seal i can then be happy with how much material to remove off the old seal. Boot keeps flooding atm which is annoying.

Lot more required than simply fitting different manifolds though isn't there. What exactly does your kit comprise of? What do the manifolds look like? Not to put a downer on it but I can't really see you breaking even by relocating your turbos, bearing in mind most people would fit new turbos once. Unless your changing out turbos regularly I don't see the benefit to cost/hassel ratio.

I thought I needed to do it and researched it, not done it though. It is possible but not very easy. There properly down in the head. I wouldn't be surprised if it was quicker to pull the block and do it the heads off.

Mines passed for years with them.

Not really interested in paying for it to be removed if not necessary. Equally couldn't care less about having an OEM seal, so it seems like a perfect solution.

z32 Manual TTs came with bigger AR turbos and different cam shafts to reduce power and lag. Stock for stock manuals are quicker, if the drivers equal. Autos do make faster drag cars, however the Z32 autobox is a bit weak. There's a bit of a stigma about automatics over here, regardless of the car it's in. However that stigma is based around old fashioned automatics. For a daily commuter I'd quite like an auto, for a fun car though, unless it's a new auto I'd pick manual every time. I've driven and owned a z32 auto and manual. Manual is 100% better, not only did the autobox make the car sluggish feeling and did irratating things they seem to break for a hobby.

Yeah it's the universal I was enquiring about Jeff, looks smart as well. Does the original just pull out? Where do I get the one you used to use?

Grave digging here. Does anyone know if the seal above requires the rear window to be removed?

Sorted mate, cheers.

Check your local laws, you might cause yourself headaches removing one, the other or both. Both are fitted for emissions control. Why remove either? Well the simple answer is to reduce clutter and reduce the risk of failure. It can't fail if it's not on the car. Binning the EGR does make maintainence easier. Removing your PCVs should stop your engine burning oil during the combustion process lowering the octane rating. However, I found as have others that removal of the PCV system which reduces the engines capacity to scavenge blow by gasses actually leaves the engine worse off. This is particularly pronounced in high mileage TT engines where blow by gasses stop the turbos from draining properly and the engine begins to smoke. There are other deletes that are worth doing though, AIV, PVCR, CC to name a few. Best to research what you want to remove. I've removed everything really aside from the PCV, which I reinstated.

Not quite the same as the archachic autobox in a z32 though is it. It actually changes gear with sense not as when it feels like it, like mid way through a bloody corner.

Are you getting code 34 or not? I'd be suspicious of the dett sensor or/and harness.

Yeah, they look smart. I'd run those.

Pop up some pictures of your current wheels and how they sit bud.