ashleydc

Still no luck!:sad:

I noticed I'm still showing as a registered user, do I need to do anything else?

I've just paid my renewal via Pay Pal, under the name Ashley Cooper. Cheers

I did the inside of my sills and arches and various other places with bilt hamber cavity wax. It's really easy to use and is highly reccomended if you do a bit of googling. I'm sure they do an underseal equivalent.

Just found out from zedworld that my car has passed its third MOT in a row! The only advisory in all that time has been that the rear tyres are worn. I use it daily and bought it expecting it to be a money pit, but it hasn't been. :biggrin: The only problem is that I'm setting myself up for a fall, the turbos will probably need replacing next week!

I think that's the dust seal you're referring to and that goes as you've said. I think the seals can go either way.

Checked an old photo, mine was the same. You can stop it working by disconnecting the solenoid, but I think completely removing it is difficult with just three plenum off.

From memory, I think that's how they are. In other words I think your egr is st ill operational. Best if someone else can confirm this, my memory isn't the best these days!

It's a good idea to replace the the pcv valves and the 5 pcv pipes also. A couple of the pipes split when I was removing my plenum. You'll also need some silicone based liquid gasket for the exhaust rockers.

I would imagine the spring rate on the s14 coilovers would be too low? The s14 is about 350kg lighter.

I'm about to put some split rims back together after powdercoating and polishing. Does anyone have any idea of the recommended torque for the fasteners? They are PIAA split rims with 25 fasteners per wheel. Each fastener is M8. Any advice appreciated.

You can get access to the arches and sills by removing the three quarter panel(not sure of the correct name!) on the inside of the car. Theres also a hole that gives access, behind the carpet that covers the sill to the side of the front seats.

Bilt Hamber do a cavity wax called dynax s50. It comes in an aerosol with a long tube for getting to the ends of sills etc. Its really easy to use and comes out very favourably against other cavity waxes in a few tests I found when I googled it. I think you could do both sills for around £30.

You can move the cylinder to the loft providing you're able to get the header tank higher than it. If you're paying someone else to do the work, you might be better just replacing the boiler with a combi. As you say, you could put the cost of moving the cylinder towards a new boiler. Another thing to consider though, is the payback on a new boiler. Say you end up with a 20 percent increase in efficiency over your old boiler. On a £50 per month heating bill thats £10 per month saving. A saving of £120 per year will take many years to cover the new boiler cost.

The water pressure you get from a conventional hot water system is determined by the height of the header tank in the loft, not by the height of the hot water cylinder in the airing cupboard. To get better hot water pressure you need to move the header tank as high as possible in the loft. The hot water header tank will usually be the larger of the two in the loft. Providing you have a modern lagged hot water cylinder, the losses from it are minimal. In the region of £30 per year. IMO it's not worth swapping a good boiler for a combi on the grounds of savings. If you desperately want rid of the cylinder its probably worth swapping to a combi. Decent quality combi boilers are reliable these days. I fitted my vailant 6 years ago and haven't had a single problem with it. You could replace the electric shower with a power shower, which uses the hot water from the heating system and retain your existing system. Power showers draw a minimal current, I think in the region of 200w. Your existing cable would be plenty for this. Just a few things to consider.

Had my ECU chipped by John yesterday, he's really knowledgeable and gave me lots of advice. He even came out in the car and set up my boost controller. It's made a nice difference to the car. Cheers John, it was good to meet you.

So you can still get ccc under a different name? If so what is it, I'll have to get myself a copy!

You can put either on. I swapped my jdm alloys for uk ones on my jap import.

Does anyone remember cars and car conversions? That really was a good magazine, I don't think it's ever been replaced. It was less tacky than a lot of the modern mags and more informative.

as for movement there is even resistance up and down but they are 21 year old shocks so a bit fresher ones wouldnt go a miss i was thinking There should be resistance up and down, that's what dampers are designed to do. The resistance is to stop the car "pogoing"down the road after you've hit a bump.

I sprayed mine with primer and matt black paint in rattle cans, they look like new. Very easy to do.

Could be old hard rubber fuel houses under the bonnet. I had the same problem and it was only when the car was cold. I replaced the hoses and its been fine since. Presumably they're harder when they're cold.

Is it best to fit this as per the FAQ section on here? I've seen other more simple methods which say just tee into the boost gauge feed. Can anyone confirm its 6mm vacuum hose I need? and how much to order? Cheers:confused1:

Mine flickered occasionally, then stopped working eventually. I replaced the ballast and its been fine since.

That sound more like bore and piston ring wear, might be worth doing a compression test