ashleydc

I was in a rush the other day, so I'm not 100 percent sure yet, but it did look like the rack. I'm going to take the gaiter off and check for sure when I've got a bit of spare time.

This was the guide. http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.243

Thanks for the reply, I think I'll give it a go. I've found a guide that claims it's not too difficult to remove the rack.

Thanks for the offer, but I'm probably going to have a go at repairing my existing one first.

I swapped my intercoolers for uprated side mounts. I don't have any before and after figures, but it made a noticeable difference. Do you know that yours are definitely stock?

I was under my car today, tightening the belts slightly and I noticed a slight leak from my steering rack. Has anyone removed their rack and changed the seals? Was it successful? Any recommendations on the best place to get the seals from?

I'd just bypass it, that way you can totally rule it out. If you've got a straight connector, it takes about 2 minutes to do.

You're right, but I think he's referring to the boost controller solenoid and not the wastegate solenoid.

They are normally open, but mine failed in the closed position giving excess boost.

Yes, but if you try that, you obviously need to make sure you don't exceed a safe boost level for your particular setup.

If you connect the two vacuum pipes together that are connected to the boost controller solenoid, you have effectively bypassed it. If you try this and you're still getting high boost readings, then I think what hellraiser said is most likely the case.

It's the set boost setting that is the one you need to turn down. If you turn the knob without pressing anything first, that is the setting you will be altering. You need to press the knob in to store the new setting. If you've turned this down and you're still getting 16psi, the unit is either faulty, or it's not plumbed in correctly. The solenoids are known to fail on them, but my unit failed and I had to have it repaired. The symptoms I had were excessive boost which is caused by the solenoid remaining closed. I would check the plumbing first.

You could try turning the knob and reducing the set boost level to zero percent. You then need to press the knob in to store the new setting. See if that results in a lower boost level. No need to alter any of the other settings just to test it.

Mine was from Jeff at Zedworld. It feels stock, but it's supposedly 25 percent updated. It handles my car's 390hp fine and it's done about 15,000 miles now.

Could it not just be a case of a failed coilpack or injector on number 6 cylinder?

I used my TT as a daily for three years, it's never let me down and it's better on fuel than my old volvo, but that's not saying much!

Thanks guy's!:)

As was said above, it's commonly the fuel pipes. I found that just tightening them didn't cure the problem, so I replaced them all and it's fine now. It's really cheap and easy to do and well worth it, in my opinion. There's a really useful guide by Jeff for replacing the awkward one under the throttle linkage.

I've never had an issue with it, except when my inner tie rods were worn. Once I replaced them, it was fine again. I drive it quick sometimes and find that the car is really predictable when the back end lets go.

I did this job yesterday, there's an excellent write up by Jeff. It's quite easy, the only slight annoyance was that I had to remove the exhausts to get good access. The big problem was getting someone to do the alignment afterwards. I went to six garages, the two wheel alignment ones didn't want to touch it and the 4 wheel places wouldn't touch it because of the aftermarket wheels. I had to beg in the end and say I would do the adjustment if they let me use their equipment! You need to get it done, but any two wheel place will do. They just need to put the car on the ramp backwards. Good luck finding somewhere that will!

I was really pleased with the results. It's all the more impressive, because it used to be an auto and obviously has smaller turbos and different cams. The only downside is that it hasn't stopped raining since it was mapped, so I haven't been able to test it properly. It just spins up a lot in this weather, even in third if the road is poor.

Thanks to Noz for mapping my car yesterday. It's fairly standard except for an Apexi intake and uprated SMIC. It's even still got the cats on it. I was really happy with the 387 hp it made at the flywheel, at 1.1 bar. It did make 392, but the boost had crept up a bit on that run. - - - Updated - - - 300zx Dyno: No doubt this won't work, knowing my computer skills!

I've replaced a lot of bushes on my old volvo 740 with superflex ones and I haven't noticed any increase in noise or ride harshness.

They're a bit furry but no major damage to them. I know they're not worth anything but I thought someone might buy them for the tyres. They're Goodridge with about 6mm of tread left. £25 plus delivery or collection from Walsall.

I've had one in mine since I've owned the car, it's the 25 percent upgraded one. My car is running stage one mods, 15psi, plus intercoolers and its been fine for the last 10000miles. It feels like stock.