lahsx

cheers rob

anyone out there know the make of these mirrors ,tried searching forums , cant find any info on them, thanks.

connections for o2 sensors are to the rear of engine one either side, think you might be mixing them up with cat temp sensors though and they connect to a box under centre consol arm rest , if it is temp sensors you can just cut wires and disconect them if need be, they just tell you when cats are overheating iirc. hth.

Thanks s-tune thought it was you but didnt want to go shouting my mouth off and causing hassle could see from some of your posts on here that youve had probs with p.c. Still want the gauge pod i'll pm you my addy.

paid for a z centre style six gauge pod almost two months ago from seller zee interiors, no answer to emails and i know he's been on ebay since the first three i sent, have now reported him to ebay. Thing is im quite sure he's a member on here and would like to give him a chance to come forward and sort this before i take things any further, so if your out there p.m. me and lets get this sorted .

turn them right down just now and fit a proper boost controller as soon as poss, mot and tax are no use when youve got a knackered engine, you could take them out and fit proper boost jets thats another option and much safer imho.

its yellow and an auto mate.

one of the reasons i was offering mine, mine is still intact at the moment and would only be stripped of main parts i.e. engine and box,suspension , and everything would be removed knowing that someone was going to replace it at a later date, so it would'nt be just torn appart.

its a 1990 also been garaged over winter months so salt could'nt get at it.

basically the same as any other car but with some extra bits such as hicas. shell's sound, no rust and was waxoiled soon after i got the car, only stripping it cos im getting a younger one and replacing all the aftermarket parts that im taking off old one would be too costly.

depends on wether yours is a a uk or a jap import, if its a uk its going to be a pain stripping suspension and drive train parts cos everything will be well rusted, other than that it depends on how far back the shell has been stripped. stripping out and refitting wiring is time consuming ,other than that its just a case of swapping parts in the right order, personaly i would replace engine wiring harness while engine etc is out as they regularily cause probs after they hyave been disturbed. May have a jap shell available in a couple months time if your interested.

goes under the door fixed to the sill/door return mine was fixed with double sided tape ,sod to get off

yep already considered all of the above, was looking for peoples actual experiences and wether they think they had made less or more than they thought they would make. Realy just trying to get an approximate value on selling as a breaker, as most of upgrade parts will eventualy end up on new one and trying to replace upgrade bits with standard would cost a fair bit anyway.

how much hard cash did you make breaking your z rather than selling it complete. thinking of breaking mine to finance new one.

A garage failing things incorrectly is looked on every bit as seriously as a garage missing failable items. vosa actualy take this more seriously they class it as useing the mot scheme to generate income and also bringing mot scheme into disrepute. in an ideal world every car should be tested to the exact same standard, but there are a lot of grey areas in the testers manual where it is down to examiners experience and not a set fail or pass criteria, saying that it still amazes me the amount of testers that fail vehicles on items that are not actualy part of the test.

membership renewed via bank transfer today.

its normaly down to the depth of the outer rim i.e. deep dish alloys, tyres are fitted from rear of wheel. all depends on design of wheel really but once outer dish goes over 2.5"/3.0" it makes it hard to fit/remove tyre especially if tyre has stiff sidewalls.

you also need a fog light tell tale light for mot, can be part of switch or seperate but must come on with fog lamp.

sorry just double checked wouldnt fail mot still wouldnt recomend it tho

welded suspension arms would be an mot fail if mot examiner spots them, excessive heat weakens pressed steel parts . personaly wouldnt even consider welding suspension arms unless it was for a get you home type repair.

yep im mot tester and your mot guy is getting something wrong there,defo not a fail for dip beams staying on,quite a few cars have dip beams on all the time not just z's . try pointing this out to examiner and if he still insists its a fail ask for an appeal test form in which case vosa will come out and do the test and will also reprimand the tester appropriatly for failing the car incorrectly.

really depends on which wheels, most are 60 deg taper just look at bolt hole in wheel it will be same shape as bolt , if your still not sure local tyre or wheel dealer should be able to tell you.

rest of system is trust, its slighly louder with decats fitted and is still ok at normal driving/cruising speeds but sounds good when you boot it.

got a set of these myself, good quality bit of kit, tubs definately spool up quicker.

got original razo version of this, works well, only two wires to connect for o/d button.