lahsx

other option is remove driveshaft yourself and take it to a garage and get them to fit boot for ya, will save you an hour or so labour charge from a garage.

wouldnt use the universal split type mate the split part always unglues itself quite quickly. Remove driveshaft, six bolts at diff and 36mm nut (iirc) at hub centre, cut old boot off and clean all grease from cv joint, now thisnext bit im not sure about cv joint will be either a knock of type or will be held by a clip between cv joint and shaft look closely where joint meets shaft for a small cutout in joint with the ends of a clip showing they will look like two small prongs you need to close the prongs together and joint should then come off of shaft you might need to tap it with a hammer. if you cant find a clip then its the knock off type and all you need to do is give the joint a few sharp hits with a hammer on the inside edge and joint should come off, you might need to try different places round the inside edge. once off check that clip on end of shaft is ok then fit new boot, fill joint with supplied grease through the centre of cv joint, cv joint should then just tap back on ,check by pulling/tapping that clip has locked in place and finish fitting boot. hope that helps you out a bit mate.

this doesnt sound right to me, most common cause of wheel studs breaking is overtightening normaly done when an impact gun is used to tighten nuts instead of being torqued properly. you would need a lot of movement to shred the threads on stud and even then the stud would shred the wheel it being made out of alloy and being much softer than the stud,this wasnt the same garage that did your brakes by any chance is it.

hmmm how visible is it and it also depends on exactly where crack is needs to be within 30cm of steering , brake or suspension mounting points to be a fail

sure is just a different name for the same thing

some more pics rb 26 powered iirc

mot station cannot check on previous fails at other stations,they could print a duplicate of previous mot paperwork but they need the vehicles v5 document to do this. if it is a specific fault found on one particular model it may be brought to testers attention anyway, there's a section on testers checklist which points out unusual problems and also some manufactureres wear limits on certain items. what is actual problem with car lammypie.

could be abs systems registered a fault due to your battery problems and all you need is light resetting some systems will reset themselves after a long drive or after ignitin has been turned on so many times and the same fault hasnt been rgistered again but most need diagnostic equiment to turn them off.

sounds like a faulty sensor abs and traction control use the same sensors you will need to get it on to a diagnostic computer to check for fault and to reset warning lights.

i would love to know where you guys are gettin your cars mot'd brake servo's should be checked as part of the test. easy way to check themwithout going under bonnet is this, ignition off press brake pedal hard 4 or 5 times this depletes vacume in servo, now press hard on brake and at the same time start engine , you should feel brake pedal sink an inch or so this indicates servo is ok, if pedal doesnt sink then theres something wrong.

battery testers dont allways sow up a faulty battery mate, easiest way to check for battery drain is a clamp type ampmeter ,stick it on power lead and with ignition off it should read zero or just about zero if you have an alarm fitted.

should be able to get a baffle to fit that, check out apex performance they do 200sx drift parts sure they used to do separate baffles

getting bmw's fitted with asimilar type of system as standard, a valve in one tailpipe of each rear silencer that is closed at low rpm/ throttle and opens as revs etc build.

yep they got that wrong as well older cars are checked at tickover but should be revved to purge the system max is 3000 rpm or half the indicated limit. newer cars bet test has a max of 3000 rpm.

yep im a manager at a testing station and a tester. you can get a bolt in baffle depending on styleof exhaust youve got fitted. or you could get a baffle made to fit. because i work for a tyre and exhaust centre we see quite a few cars that come in get exhaust changed ,go for test, then get exhaust changed back.

be a long trip mate im up in the north east of scotland, youd probably becheaper and quicker changing zorsts.

new rules dont give any figures as testing stations dont have any way of measuring decibels of exhaust. its basicaly down to tester to decide wether exhaust is to loud . prsonaly i tend to pass and advise exhaust noise unless it is genuinely unreasonable.

rules have changed were now supposed to check exhaust volume while cars going through emissions check i.e. at tickover and at 3000 rpm when undergoing a bet (cat) test.

basicaly the mot reg's state that the exhaust should not be substancially louder than a vehicle with an original system in good condition, so really its down to the tester. cars are not exempt from emission test its just a different test that applies to earlier (pre 96) z's. make sure tester knows that it should get earlier test, you need to hold car revs at approx 2500/3000 rpm for later test and might bring attention to loud exhaust .

looking good mate what did you use to cover them.

some people get solid shelves custom built for speaker instals thats probably what youve seen mate.

taff front and rear lower arms came from new zealand company they were blue but i powder coated everything green to match in with tien parts, they were supplied with two sets of shafts with different tapers on them and fitted straight on without any probs, fronts were advertised as z32 parts and rears were advertised as 200sx parts and i took a chance on them fitting.

Hi mate ive got one for sale in the for sale section.

lee dent yep that is an lpg tank just waitng on front end kit to arrive, kit im using you can run lpg and original injectors together givin a theoretical 800bhp approx limit. taff front brace is home built but copied from nismo one, rear arms were bought at right price and only needed a slight mod to fit but also allow for easier adjustment of rear suspension. boldy yep know what your saying bud not blending spoiler just filling slight missmatch in joint between wing and spoiler. thanks for the comments lads away to finish fitting electric power steering pump just now