lahsx

lower part of front spoiler is missing as well cost a few quid to replace that.

my z is an import as well with approx 70000 miles on it decated about 3 month ago no probs so far , running about 14 psi boost and it gets well used.

no mate manual ecu wont work right in an auto , auto ecu sends info to g/box ecu manual ecu isnt set up to do this.

found a spare front disc wieght is approx 8 kg

dont know weights seperately mate but a complete front rear set up with discs ,pads and bmc weighs approx 37 kilos.

yeh was thinking either a c/f trim for bottom of door or paint section of the skirt so there,s a clean break between yellow and carbon fibre ( everything looks black in pics but its actualy carbon fibre) think its the step in the skirts at the door that makes it look not quite right.

what colour should i do skirts, spliter, etc. should i leave them carbon fibre or should i paint them to match car.[/img] [/img]

did wheels come with spigot rings and are they fitted had a few probs with cars not having spigot rings when they should, allows the wheel to run very slightly off centre giving quite bad steering shake. also check and see where wheel balance weights are they should be on inside edge and just behind spokes for a hidden balance, if there,s only wieghts in one place theyve more than likely done a static balance which wont stop wheel shake sometimes.

thats right mate he,s not alowed to do any work on the car during the mot so he,s not allowed to reconnect it. lambda,s a bit awkward need to take battery out for pass side one and unbolt bmc for drivers one dont undo brake pipes just the 2 13mm nuts and gently p[ull it forward and up gives you a bit more room to get to lambda . lambda should be 22mm spanner, undo plugs at top of engine at the back first then undo sensor, will probably be bloody tight but once loosened shoulkd screw out by hand.

harder you push your tubby,s the shorter their lifespan sorry but honestly dont know what the max output for standard tubby,s is.

bottom ball joints are good for causeing this had it on a couple of nissans in the past both times it was a botom ball joint.

most boost jets are just mig welding tips mate you get them in different sizes ie 1mm, 1.2mm etc dont remember what size gives you what psi boost do a search on boost jets and that will tell you theyre only about 50p each and you need 2 one for each turbo.

bigger injectors need the ecu remapped mate and only give bigger bhp with other mods such as bigger turbo,s , intercoolers ,etc, they would let you get the max out of your standard turbos, because standard injectors are only good for around 400bhp and stock turbos are up to a bit more than that if i remember correctly could be wrong on that one tho .

vehicle must be tested as presented so it dont matter if tester notices it or not, worst he can do is advise you on it. me yeah im one o those mot muppet blokes.

that trick would only work on a car thats sitting at idle for the old style emissions test (3.5% co and 1200 ppm h/c) more importantly what age is your z if its before 95 then its old style test after 95 new style bet/cat test (0.30% co and 200 ppm h/c at 2500/3000 rpm) make sure their testing it to right emissions standard.

yep know covers you mean you could try marking nuts and hub to check and see wether its nuts loosening or drive shafts settling into bearings, drive shafts sometimes need quite a bit of tightening before they seat in properly.

split pins is meant to stop nuts turning in the first place you havnt missed out thick washers that go under the nuts by any chance, pins are supposed to go through slots on outer edge of nuts sounds like nuts are to far in .

boost jets give a more consistant control over boost, manual controlers will cause boost spikes you can set them and once set they will regularily let your boost go way over what you set it at, with boost jets youve still got ecu cotroling safety boost etc thats why jets are better than manual controllers.

just did a quick bit of checking on net and some european court has ruled that ecotec valves cannot be advertised as fuel economy devices due to the fact that modern fuel injection systems ie lambda controlled would make adjustments to the fueling therefore negating any effect the ecotec valve would have. also with vacum line coming off the vg30 manifold where it does any extra air bled into inlet would mainly go to one cylinder only and i doubt very much if its effect could travel through balance bar to opposit bank of cylinders. dont think i,d want it on my car to be honest.

yeah but ecotec valves are for n/a pre lambda sensor engines, wont work if your developeing even the slightest boost and lambdas will compensate for any extra air let into system anyway. yes/ no maybe im wrong just wondering

can i ask why your putting ecotec valves into your brake servo vacume line.

seals on turbo,s will only go when you decat if they are on theyre way out already, the t2/t25 style turbo,s would have been designed quite a while before cats were introduced and would have been designed to run with exhausts with very little back pressure.basicaly the same turbo as on the 300 is used on the 200sx which had no cat fitted as standard.

yep they will do turbo,s soak up quite abit of the exhaust noise.

manual boost controler fit s very nicely in the bin. these things dont control boost accurately and will end up doing a lot of damage to your engine.

looks like stainless , if so the cracks are caused by work hardening of the metal, could be repaired you would need to take it off and get a fabrication shop to repair it tho, make sure its repaired with stainless and not mild steel or you,l get a bimetal reaction which will cause it to rust through a lot quicker than normal.