lahsx

yep heard that as well mine were very close to gearbox sump on pass side about 10-15mm gap been on for 2 months now no rattles or nocks though and power comes in earlier in rev range.

got mine from 2fast2cool on ebay good quality and fitted well, look slightly better quality than the ones your looking at and he,s got a set with no bids on in his shop just now only a day or so to go on them.

whatever you do dont use copaslip on electrical conections its a grease and copper compound and copper as we know is a conductor of electricity it can short out connections giving you wrong sensor readings and if used in the wrong places could cause shorts bad enough to burn out connectors, wiring etc. even cause fires.

another trick for finding leaks is to spray carb cleaner around suspect area while engine is running, when engine revs rise youve found leak. only do it a few squirts at a time and make sure non of your coils are tracking etc dont want engine going up in flames.

my jap z has got a similar idea to yours mate recirculation side has been blanked off and theres a directional vent pipe fitted to blow off valve and no goose honk.

got mine from ebay mate someone called schoolshowtime advertised under faux leather do it in meter lenghts 112 cm wide £6 a metre. hth.

would recon on trying it at 70 degrees to start mate if that dont work try uping the temp by 10 and have another go lamp units should handle about 100/110 deg cel. but how much more than that i dont know start low and work your way up.

sorry but :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

41

today im getting the z ready for painting hopefully back on the road next weekend, out tonight for ma birthday bash, not to much drinkin tho or paint fumes will wipe me out tomorrow.

red just now going candy blue very soon . :D

isnt this made from same stuff as computer display security screens have seen some computer displays with an additional screen and you can only view the screen when looking straight at it, might be cheaper and easier to source in this country if it is.

ah theres your problem you need to use the single flare bit first then the concave bit flares should come out right size and without any splits then.

hi john are you makeing a single flare on the pipe before using the concave bit or just making the flare with the concave bit on its own.

yep just checked on mine as john says sae concave or double flare . what type of flaring tool have you got john.

hi mate all car brake pipe s are a standard size(except citroens) and there,s only a few varitions to the fittings, you will need a roll of copper brake pipe two standard male fittings per pipe a pipe flaring tool and a pipe cutter (small version of plumbers pipe cutter) all available from any good motor factor, the male fittings should be the ones that hve a small shoulder with no thread at the sealing end of them (the other type have no shoulder and are threaded all the way along theyre also about 3mm shorter) a good quality 11mm brake pipe spanner will be a big help as well. if you dont have access to a pipe flaring tool you would probably be cheaper removing the old brake pipes and taking them to a garage that will make them up for you. oh and also check removed pipes to see if you need to put a single or a double flare on ends of new pipe i think nissan are normally single flared but couldnt garuntee that. hth.

Hi colin im a mechanic in Elgin plus im a z owner and might be able to help you out p.m. me your tel. no. and i,ll give you a bell.

im sure the z doesnt have a clutch cable sure theyre hydrolic ive got an auto so cant be deffinate on this, very much doubt they would have the parts to fix it there and then anyway tow you to garage/home job methinks.

Ossian is totaly correct lost count of the amount of times ive seen a car failed the test incorrectly and brake pipes are one of the regular ones.

just been out and checked my z and unless corrosion at front of sill is within 30 cm of front outer seat mounting bolt then its definately not a fail examiner has failed your z and used a reason which only applies to something wit a seperate chassis i.e. a landrover to fail yours which is wrong, i would also check your brake pipes as many examiners fail brake pipes at the first signs of rust when the fail criteria is excessively corroded, easy way to check brake pipes is to try bending them where they are rusty if they feel springy they are ok but if they bend theyre knackered, if you need new pipes they are quite cheap if you can do it your self ,take old pipes off and take them to a small gara\ge they should be able to make them up for you at a reasonable price, same with suspension bush take off part with duff bush and get garage to change it for you. it will save you loads if you can find a small local garage willing to do these small jobs for you.

mot regs for front sidelights are they must be mounted equal distance out from centre of car and at the same height they can be incorporated into another lamp unit but must work independantly of lamp unit and with ignition switched off ,they must show only white light unless incorporated into a yellow tinted headlamp unit ( yellow not amber as in indicator lamp) so you can mount a seperate bulb into headlamp or clear/white section of indicator lamp or you can have a totaly seperate lamp, side lamp bulbs are normaly in the 5 to 10 watt range. Also should point out that vehicle lighting regulations are quite specific and even though your car may pass the mot your lights may actualy be mounted incorrectly and be classed illegal if checked by vosa the mot version of lighting regs does not give specific heights etc. only a basic guide as to what should pass and what shouldnt there is a minimum height for side lights but i couldnt tell you what that is but you would be definately ok mounting them in headlights and should be ok mounting them in beside indicators if using a seperate lamp mount it as close as you can to the same level as headlights and as far out to the side as you can and you should be ok. hth

had same problem on my 18"s mate had 255s fitted at the time you need at least 275s to get rim protectors on tyre to cover rim.

got 275/40 18"s on the back of mine mate nothing rubs and fills the arches well.just noticed your on 19"s but outside dia should be close to the same due to different aspect ratios. hth.

tracks on a pcb are just skinny wires and can be repaired if your carefull, trace the track back to a good section and clean the varnish off, solder replacement wire to this and route it along the same path and connect at other end, if its a small break you can just bridge the gap with solder depends how good your soldering is.

good chance the chip will be ok because you havnt started it but there,s still a chance it could be damaged also check you havnt damaged some of the circuit tracks that run under the chip when you removed the old chip, my chip was pretty well stuck to the mother board and lifted 3 of the tracks when i removed it some carefull soldering with single strands of wire sorted that tho.